URGENT PLEASE HELP!!! no power when ignition on
08-07-2011, 04:37 PM
#24
i was thinking bcm but you should rule every other option out first. do your power door locks work with the key fab?
08-07-2011, 06:04 PM
#28
no not yet. Just another piece of info=The door locks work, even with the remote, windows work. No a/c or radio, so dont know if those work, haha.
Im away from the car know, but would like to have a good place to start when diagnosing tomorrow. Thanks for the info such far.
Im away from the car know, but would like to have a good place to start when diagnosing tomorrow. Thanks for the info such far.
08-08-2011, 12:27 AM
#30
I have no direct engine block ground. Battery was relocated to the rear. Direct cage ground from battery, and direct cage ground from block. ether way thans not the issue here. I am going to check the fuse panel inside the car tomorrow to see if power is getting to them once the ignition is on. If not then the problem is between their and the relay I believe.
08-08-2011, 09:58 AM
#32
try this, might not work for u but it worked for me when i had a problem with my lignition lock cylinder, i put my key in gently.. like VERY GENTLE.. gently sprung the key forward and let it power up for a good 15 seconds, then gently turned it over.. or leave it forward for like 5 mins and it eventually turned over.. sounds weird but theres a few youtube videos about this issue, might not be the problem with u but tis a good troubleshooting optino at this point. Also make sure your terminals ARE TIGHTLY secured and CLEAN
08-08-2011, 05:57 PM
#33
Problem SOLVED: Bad gauge fuse
I checked the ignition in the cab at the column, power their. Checked power to BCM, power their, then checked every fuse in the box inside. Guage fuse wasnt broken, just slightly burned. VERY hard to tell by eye. Changed it out and all was good. GLAD IT WAS THIS SMALL OF A PROBLEM
THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP GUYS!!!!!!
I checked the ignition in the cab at the column, power their. Checked power to BCM, power their, then checked every fuse in the box inside. Guage fuse wasnt broken, just slightly burned. VERY hard to tell by eye. Changed it out and all was good. GLAD IT WAS THIS SMALL OF A PROBLEM
THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP GUYS!!!!!!
08-09-2011, 08:29 AM
#35
Problem SOLVED: Bad gauge fuse
I checked the ignition in the cab at the column, power their. Checked power to BCM, power their, then checked every fuse in the box inside. Guage fuse wasnt broken, just slightly burned. VERY hard to tell by eye. Changed it out and all was good. GLAD IT WAS THIS SMALL OF A PROBLEM
THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP GUYS!!!!!!
I checked the ignition in the cab at the column, power their. Checked power to BCM, power their, then checked every fuse in the box inside. Guage fuse wasnt broken, just slightly burned. VERY hard to tell by eye. Changed it out and all was good. GLAD IT WAS THIS SMALL OF A PROBLEM
THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP GUYS!!!!!!
10-25-2012, 02:18 PM
#37
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1994 TransAm starting issue I think I might have a couple of issues with my T/A, would like some help. Here's some info:
1. My alternator went out while driving, after it hit 8 volts my car died. I replaced alternator, car worked okay for a few days.
2. I went to start my car, it started and immediately cut out, like the fuel was being cut off, but finally got it started and made it home. It would start sometimes, but it got much worse over the next few days.
3. My security light has been on for months, but never affected it starting. I saw that one of the orange wires had came loose, reconnected it, security light is off, but did the same thing, didn't seem to matter.
4. Now the car won't turn over, the guages are not working, and when the do, it will click the relays, but won't supply power to starter.
5. My key started giving me problems turning in the ignition, it still sticks, but can get it to turn enough to allow it to work. (I think I need to replace it). I'm not sure if I have a VATS issue, so I figured I'd put the right resistors and bypass the system, didn't make a difference.
So here's my question, did possibly running the car on 8 volts until it died possibly mess up one or more relays, the Body Control Module (BCM), the computer. The starter kill was removed by the previous owner most likely when the installed the security system, which was removed before I bought it, but they did leave the wires a mess. I think it's not allowing power to the starter as well as shutting off the fuel, haven't checked for sure, but feel confident it is doing both of those now.
I have a 1994 Formula Firebird that I'm using as a parts car, it had the 5.7. I took out the ignition switch from it, and before I put it in my T/A, I'd like to try and find out where my problems is before adding another variable. If I do switch ignitions, the key has a different resistance, should I put the BCM from Formula with it as well? Should I swap the computer from Formula as well? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you,
Tim
1. My alternator went out while driving, after it hit 8 volts my car died. I replaced alternator, car worked okay for a few days.
2. I went to start my car, it started and immediately cut out, like the fuel was being cut off, but finally got it started and made it home. It would start sometimes, but it got much worse over the next few days.
3. My security light has been on for months, but never affected it starting. I saw that one of the orange wires had came loose, reconnected it, security light is off, but did the same thing, didn't seem to matter.
4. Now the car won't turn over, the guages are not working, and when the do, it will click the relays, but won't supply power to starter.
5. My key started giving me problems turning in the ignition, it still sticks, but can get it to turn enough to allow it to work. (I think I need to replace it). I'm not sure if I have a VATS issue, so I figured I'd put the right resistors and bypass the system, didn't make a difference.
So here's my question, did possibly running the car on 8 volts until it died possibly mess up one or more relays, the Body Control Module (BCM), the computer. The starter kill was removed by the previous owner most likely when the installed the security system, which was removed before I bought it, but they did leave the wires a mess. I think it's not allowing power to the starter as well as shutting off the fuel, haven't checked for sure, but feel confident it is doing both of those now.
I have a 1994 Formula Firebird that I'm using as a parts car, it had the 5.7. I took out the ignition switch from it, and before I put it in my T/A, I'd like to try and find out where my problems is before adding another variable. If I do switch ignitions, the key has a different resistance, should I put the BCM from Formula with it as well? Should I swap the computer from Formula as well? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you,
Tim
