Need fix for window guide
Need fix for window guide I took my drivers door panel off to find this.....
The rivet hole for this window roller guide enlarged and split downwards vertically, so now the rivet won't seat in this plate thats attached to the bottom of the window. The window now slides back and forth freely inside the door unless it's up all the way. - who's seen this.. ideas?
thanks!
The rivet hole for this window roller guide enlarged and split downwards vertically, so now the rivet won't seat in this plate thats attached to the bottom of the window. The window now slides back and forth freely inside the door unless it's up all the way. - who's seen this.. ideas?
thanks!
made my repair in 2007,holding up well.
damaged hole
OEM slider assembly in rail
my fabbed replacement
screw is 1/4-28 tapered head socket head cap screw,thick washer(well greased to minimize metal to metal contact) used to duplicate large roller and has a ID larger than the screw to allow 'swivelling',large thin flatwasher to prevent pullout thru the damaged hole,1/4-28 locknut.
damaged hole
OEM slider assembly in rail
my fabbed replacement
screw is 1/4-28 tapered head socket head cap screw,thick washer(well greased to minimize metal to metal contact) used to duplicate large roller and has a ID larger than the screw to allow 'swivelling',large thin flatwasher to prevent pullout thru the damaged hole,1/4-28 locknut.
Thats a creative idea to work off of, It looks like you shored up the hole with JB weld or something like that? Lol, this car goes through alot of hell on the track, so I cant have stuff (like windows) flopping around.
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This is a common problem. If you search, you'll find other threads with the same issue.
The textbook solution is to replace the door channel. An alternative is to take the car to a body shop and have them weld the post back in.
If you weld, watch out for the pitfalls:
- If things get too hot, the glass could shatter. (I haven't seen any people who welded report this.)
- If things get moderately hot, the roller could melt. (The rollers were made to pop off the posts, but age may have made the plastic too stiff to do that. If you leave it on, the welder just needs to avoid it with hot stuff and going slow or using a heat sink will help.
The textbook solution is to replace the door channel. An alternative is to take the car to a body shop and have them weld the post back in.
If you weld, watch out for the pitfalls:
- If things get too hot, the glass could shatter. (I haven't seen any people who welded report this.)
- If things get moderately hot, the roller could melt. (The rollers were made to pop off the posts, but age may have made the plastic too stiff to do that. If you leave it on, the welder just needs to avoid it with hot stuff and going slow or using a heat sink will help.
Any resolution here?
The window on my 01 TA just stopped moving. Won't go up or down and the window flops around left to right, so was thinking this could be it. Haven't taken the door apart yet. Doing some preliminary research. Thoughts??
Any help is appreciated.
The window on my 01 TA just stopped moving. Won't go up or down and the window flops around left to right, so was thinking this could be it. Haven't taken the door apart yet. Doing some preliminary research. Thoughts??
Any help is appreciated.
Quick update. Took the door panel off and found the issue. Seems I have two problems. First, one of the window guides is broken, hence the left to right movement. That's easy. Seems like the window motor is also bad, since it worked again for a few seconds after I let it sit for a few minutes. It's repeatable, so I guess I just have to decide which motor to buy. I read through the sticky and it seems like it's a big mystery which is better. I'm looking at ACI from Advance or Dorman from Auto Zone. Both have lifetime warranty. Any input?
I have the same issue as far as a loose window unless all the way up. The hole didn't crack through yet. Is that roller piece removable or you have to wait for it to break through?
