When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I thought I'd start a thread for this issue. I've touched on it here and there in other threads, but this issue needs a thread of it's own.
Just a few points, I have an elite catch can and a fixed orifice PCV. I also have a check valve at the fresh air port on the intake and a breather filter at the oil cap.
The oil dip stick doesn't pop out of it's tube. I can't actually see it smoke while driving it but it does pour out the smoke if I hammer the throttle.
The engine has used oil since day one of the build. I probably have 8,000 miles on it since then and I've gotten tired of seeing that low oil light. It uses around a quart per week or 250 miles.
I'm about to start troubleshooting and may go ahead and shut it down until I resolve this - thoughts are appreciated.
The engine has used oil since day one of the build. I probably have 8,000 miles on it since then and I've gotten tired of seeing that low oil light. It uses around a quart per week or 250 miles.
What's the background on the cylinder heads? Ported the stock castings?
Worn valve guides and/or bad valve seal(s) can cause a motor to drink oil like that. My 99 T/A burned oil nearly as badly. Turned out to be bad valve seals and one in particular was very bad.
Bad valve seals, worn valve guides from reusing a stock head, PVC system & rocker arm bolts w/o sealant woukd be on my check list.
If those are ruled out might be bottom end issue which will suck.
What's the background on the cylinder heads? Ported the stock castings?
Worn valve guides and/or bad valve seal(s) can cause a motor to drink oil like that. My 99 T/A burned oil nearly as badly. Turned out to be bad valve seals and one in particular was very bad.
Bad valve seals, worn valve guides from reusing a stock head, PVC system & rocker arm bolts w/o sealant woukd be on my check list.
If those are ruled out might be bottom end issue which will suck.
Those heads were supposed to have been gone through when I had this built. That's certainly on the list of things to check.
I have yet to find the culprit yet. I want to go with the easiest first - obviously. I'd appreciate any comments. I'm soon to shut this down and get it resolved.
These are from easiest to most difficult - in my opinion:
Valve covers: is oil getting into the PCV system? I think they are supposed to have shields or baffles.
PCV system: Despite my catch can, fixed orifice PCV valve, check valve on the fresh air line, Oil filter cap (even tried one that has a check valve) to no avail.
As you said - Valve stem seals and/or valve guides.
Rings or BDC issues.
The interesting things is that I haven't changed my spark plugs since it was built. I would have thought they'd have been fouled by now. I probably have 10k on the motor by now.
Use the old school method of determining whether the rings or the valve guides/seals or oil in the intake are causing the problem: If you downshift in gear with the throttle shut ( engine braking, basically ), and the engine smokes, the rings are worn. If it happens when you're on the throttle, it's likely the valve guides/seals, or excessive oil in the intake. Open your throttle by hand and shine a flashlight in, do you see oil on the intake floor? If so, something needs to be changed in the PCV system. Do you have an LS6 valley cover? Before I changed to the LS6 valley cover, my LS1 ate a lot of oil.
Jamie, pull all 8 plugs and report. Maybe you’ve actually got a headgasket issue and it’s passing coolant. The steam produced, if it’s weak enough, could be confused with smoke. I say this because your car was very low on coolant in a different post. Spark plugs will tell all.
Jamie, pull all 8 plugs and report. Maybe you’ve actually got a headgasket issue and it’s passing coolant. The steam produced, if it’s weak enough, could be confused with smoke. I say this because your car was very low on coolant in a different post. Spark plugs will tell all.
Hey Scott,
I'll pull the plugs this weekend. I have another set to put in. The thing about the coolant is that I typically check it once a month or so, and it's always been full and orange - although I've not tested it. If I have a blown head gasket, then I would think this would be a very recent issue.
Use the old school method of determining whether the rings or the valve guides/seals or oil in the intake are causing the problem: If you downshift in gear with the throttle shut ( engine braking, basically ), and the engine smokes, the rings are worn. If it happens when you're on the throttle, it's likely the valve guides/seals, or excessive oil in the intake. Open your throttle by hand and shine a flashlight in, do you see oil on the intake floor? If so, something needs to be changed in the PCV system. Do you have an LS6 valley cover? Before I changed to the LS6 valley cover, my LS1 ate a lot of oil.
Sorry ... slow to the response ... I don't see smoke when I engine brake, the only time I actually see it is when I hammer the throttle; it pours out. This weekend, I'm going to inspect the plugs and the throttle. I will report back. I don't have the LS6 valley pan. I have a catch can and a fixed orifice PCV valve and a check valve on the fresh air side. I even had a check valved oil cap that would only let air out but not in.
I am not familiar with your other thread. Sounds like a Ring sealing issue
Did you build this motor?
I didn't build this motor. I'm hesitant to mention who did. I think that shop used a machine shop to get the short block. Sometimes I wonder if they just slapped my old 380,000 mile heads on that newly stroked block. That would be a recipe for .... uh ... what I have now!!!
I haven't had much time to look further into this issue. I am debating on getting the L updated valve cover (GM 12570427). Someone mentioned this previously; that without the shield in the original valve cover - vacuum could be sucking oil out - instead of draining down. Any thoughts about that?
The other day I was on the road and throttled quickly to 3k only to have to stop and blue smoke was barreling out. Valve stems seals?
Pull your TB off and shine a flashlight into your intake. I know that before I put an LS6 valley cover on my LS1, the intake actually had a thin ( close to a puddle ) layer of oil on the floor. I ended up making my own catch can using a water separator from an air compressor and it seemed to work pretty well. If you have the original LS1 PCV set up, it'll eat oil for sure. But to answer your question, yes, it could be valve seals too.
Pull your TB off and shine a flashlight into your intake. I know that before I put an LS6 valley cover on my LS1, the intake actually had a thin ( close to a puddle ) layer of oil on the floor. I ended up making my own catch can using a water separator from an air compressor and it seemed to work pretty well. If you have the original LS1 PCV set up, it'll eat oil for sure. But to answer your question, yes, it could be valve seals too.
I'll do that ... I have a catch can inline with the crankcase output. I still have the stock valley pan. I haven't had much time to troubleshoot it but this morning to see the low oil light really kind of pissed me off again .... seeing that I have over 15k. I'd have been better off with a boneyard LQ9 with a cam. I wouldn't have even stroked it. But ..... it is what it is. I'm gonna take the time to dig into it now.
BTW - one reason why I spent so much was that I had to buy HP Tuners because after I "stole" my car back from the shop that "built" this it wouldn't even stay running. I'm done .... complaining ... that is.
OK ... it's not coming from the PCV system as the hoses and intake are clean. The oil that I dumped out of the catch can was fairly normal. It was what I figure would have hit the intake before the build and no catch can. If it's blow by ... that's another story. Next is to check the plugs, compression check while I'm at it and bore scope. Ongoing .....
I started on replacing my spark plugs and I only bore scoped and checked the compression on #2. I had 210 psi and it went up to 220 with a tea spoon of oil. Cylinder still had crosshatch. Side note - whoever installed the spark plugs torqued the living hell out of them (probably when the engine was not in the car - that is if the engine was ever out of the car. I was so worn out from fighting with them, I only got 5/8 of the job done. Plus .... I was fairly perturbed to say the lease. I had to use a long copper pipe to break them loose on a couple of them. Anyhow ... I was surprised that the plugs weren't wetter with oil. I had number one out many months ago and it was wet with oil. I guess the rings were still sealing?
I figured that I'd bring this thread back as opposed to starting a new thread. The TA is going to the shop on Monday. She's using a quart of oil every 300-400 miles.
Appears to be blowing oil out of the exhaust valves. Intake and throttle body are pretty clean of oil as well as the catch can. She really smokes when getting on her hard or even when under
a heavy load. She leaves love marks everywhere I park her.
I wouldn't mind giving her a few more ponies while I'm at it. Any suggestions?
More to come ......
I thought I'd start a thread for this issue. I've touched on it here and there in other threads, but this issue needs a thread of it's own.
Just a few points, I have an elite catch can and a fixed orifice PCV. I also have a check valve at the fresh air port on the intake and a breather filter at the oil cap.
The oil dip stick doesn't pop out of it's tube. I can't actually see it smoke while driving it but it does pour out the smoke if I hammer the throttle.
The engine has used oil since day one of the build. I probably have 8,000 miles on it since then and I've gotten tired of seeing that low oil light. It uses around a quart per week or 250 miles.
I'm about to start troubleshooting and may go ahead and shut it down until I resolve this - thoughts are appreciated.
It's ring seal, all the way. Whoever built it totally screwed up. Probably didn't prep the bottom of the cyl liners properly and it are itself. Don't run it more, pull it and dis-assemble. Be prepared to buy pistons again, hone it again, etc. Sucks, but happens a lot w/ strokers
It was a very bad experience with the shop that did the work. Hopefully the next one will get it done properly. At least they are closer to me if there are any problems after the build.
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Slideshow: From wobbling harmonic balancers to failed EBCMs, these are the issues that define long-term C5 ownership and what repairs typically involve.
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Slideshow: A modern Camaro transformed into a retro icon, this limited-run "Bandit" build blends nostalgia with brute force in a way few revivals manage.
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Slideshow: Cadillac didn't just crash the high-performance luxury vehicle party, it showed up loud, supercharged, and occasionally a little unhinged...
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Slideshow: A one-off sports car that looks like a vintage Italian exotic-but hides a C6 Corvette underneath-just sold for the price of a new mid-engine Corvette.
Smoking LS1 Stroker 
