Blinker not functioning, ideas?
Put the flasher in. Your bulbs and sockets are perfectly fine if the hazards work.
If the flasher doesn't take care of the problem, then you'll have a MUCH more expensive issue to deal with and you won't care that you spent $10 on a flasher.
If the flasher doesn't take care of the problem, then you'll have a MUCH more expensive issue to deal with and you won't care that you spent $10 on a flasher.
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From: Indiana
So does this mean the bulb in the front is out and that I need to replace the flasher?
Also, my most important question. Where do I put this flasher fuse at? People keep telling me under the steering wheel/under the dashboard. But where at? I don't see anything under there, unless I remove some bolts.
Now that you've isolated the problem, (I expected you tested the hazards before you purchased the flasher.) you need to figure out if the problem is with the bulb or the socket.
The bulb has 2 filaments in it. One for the DRL and turn signal and the other is for the parking lights.
The cheap way to isolate the bulb/socket is to switch the left and right light bulbs. If the problem switches sides, its the bulb. If it stays in the same place, its the socket.
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From: Indiana
Then your flasher is fine. You have a problem at the bulb/socket.
If the front bulb is burned out, then the rear won't blink. (It alone doesn't have the power to trigger the flasher. Both bulbs (front and back) need to be working in order for a thermal flasher to do its thing. The hazard test proves that the front bulb/socket has an issue.
Do you still want to switch it?
Now that you've isolated the problem, (I expected you tested the hazards before you purchased the flasher.) you need to figure out if the problem is with the bulb or the socket.
The bulb has 2 filaments in it. One for the DRL and turn signal and the other is for the parking lights.
The cheap way to isolate the bulb/socket is to switch the left and right light bulbs. If the problem switches sides, its the bulb. If it stays in the same place, its the socket.
If the front bulb is burned out, then the rear won't blink. (It alone doesn't have the power to trigger the flasher. Both bulbs (front and back) need to be working in order for a thermal flasher to do its thing. The hazard test proves that the front bulb/socket has an issue.
Do you still want to switch it?
Now that you've isolated the problem, (I expected you tested the hazards before you purchased the flasher.) you need to figure out if the problem is with the bulb or the socket.
The bulb has 2 filaments in it. One for the DRL and turn signal and the other is for the parking lights.
The cheap way to isolate the bulb/socket is to switch the left and right light bulbs. If the problem switches sides, its the bulb. If it stays in the same place, its the socket.
Step 1) Don't be shocked at what you see. The sockets are black and burned and crusty. This is normal and why they go bad.
Step 2) Order new housings, inserts, and seals - 1 of each for each side. (I'd suggest doing both sides, especially when you have to pay for shipping - the parts are cheap.) You can find the p/n's here: https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...ng-insert.html Mouser is a great place to order the parts from.
Step 3) Pry the insert out of the socket housing with a screw driver. You will probably destroy the old housing - that's OK.
Step 4) Once the insert is out, the wires will pull out of the old housing. Just put them back in the new housing the same way they came out. Then pop a new insert in and you are good to go.
The above is the least expensive way to do this and gets around splicing. Others will tell you to splice a new pigtail in. You'll be able to get a pigtail faster, but splicing has a lot of drawbacks, especially in areas that get exposed to weather.
You can look up the parts in this catalog on page 6.4 and get an idea of how the pieces fit together: http://delphi.com/pdf/contact/brochu...balCatalog.pdf
+1 on trying the hazzards. If they work, then the bubs, sockets, and wiring is fine.
A failing thermal flasher can also cause one side to light up and not the other. (There are posts here with people who had that issue and I've had it happen to me.) I'd try the flasher first. Its a lot less expensive and easier to install than a turn signal switch!
A failing thermal flasher can also cause one side to light up and not the other. (There are posts here with people who had that issue and I've had it happen to me.) I'd try the flasher first. Its a lot less expensive and easier to install than a turn signal switch!
Last edited by SSweet97; Apr 29, 2012 at 09:13 PM.
Thread Starter
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From: Indiana
Will the flasher let one side work and not the other? I'm having the same problem with my '97 SS, I replaced the front left socket yesterday and I'm having the same problem. I even replaced the DRL moduel and checked all the bulbs and tried the flashers and all worked, I even checked the fuses. This is really pissing me off. I just can't pinpoint the problem. If it is the switch in the steering coloum will the dealer charge an arm and a leg to replace it? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Also, the right hand side DRL is brighter than the left.
Thanks for your reply but that wasn't the question I asked. I ended up replacing the socket and bulb and I still have the same problem. The problem has to be more complex than the socket and bulb.
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Verdad Gallardo Will the flasher let one side work and not the other? I'm having the same problem with my '97 SS, I replaced the front left socket yesterday and I'm having the same problem. I even replaced the DRL moduel and checked all the bulbs and tried the flashers and all worked, I even checked the fuses. This is really pissing me off. I just can't pinpoint the problem. If it is the switch in the steering coloum will the dealer charge an arm and a leg to replace it? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Also, the right hand side DRL is brighter than the left.
