Installing window on window regulator and channel
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 135
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From: San Diego
Installing window on window regulator and channel Any tips for putting a new driver door window in my 1995 Trans Am with hardware attached? What happened is the roller piece that was on the hardware broke off which I circle on the picture of the new window so I went to the salvage yard and ripped one out of a junk car to put in mine but I don't wanna damage anything removing my window and putting this one in. Tips? I may pay a window place to do it if its a pain but I can't imagine it can be that bad
No tips on getting it in the door, but you'll want to go to NAPA and get some Syl-Glyde grease (I haven't been able to find it anywhere else.) and grease that track good before you re-install the regulator. Syl-Glyde will match the grease that is already there and work properly with it.
If you can get it in w/o removing the regulator that would be a good thing. If you have to take the regulator out, there are other considerations you'll want to pay attention to. If you remove the lower track inside the door, you may be able to manipulate the regulator arms so you can get the old window in/out. (I'm not sure if this will work - never tried it.)
If you can get it in w/o removing the regulator that would be a good thing. If you have to take the regulator out, there are other considerations you'll want to pay attention to. If you remove the lower track inside the door, you may be able to manipulate the regulator arms so you can get the old window in/out. (I'm not sure if this will work - never tried it.)
My channel broke in the same spot a while ago. Remove the side view mirror first. There is a plastic stop in the vertical track that has to come out. Then it's just a matter of getting the regulator arms in the right spot to slip the rollers into the channel.
I used wheel bearing grease for the channel and rollers.
This might help a little. Courtesy of Shoebox:
http://shbox.com/1/window_regulator2.wmv
I used wheel bearing grease for the channel and rollers.
This might help a little. Courtesy of Shoebox:
http://shbox.com/1/window_regulator2.wmv
TECH Regular
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 407
Likes: 2
From: Keller Tx
Ah yes I see this must be fairly normal. Last week going in to work I rolled down the drivers window and back up to get the condensation off only to hear and feel a pop on my left knee. The window would not roll up correctly something was screwed.
That night I pulled the panel to find the former owner did a half *** weld job on this roller. Here is the before and after with my half *** weld job. Kept a wet rag over the roller so it wouldn't melt during my sorry welding job. Oh well it's working for now.
Good luck
That night I pulled the panel to find the former owner did a half *** weld job on this roller. Here is the before and after with my half *** weld job. Kept a wet rag over the roller so it wouldn't melt during my sorry welding job. Oh well it's working for now.
Good luck
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 135
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From: San Diego
My channel broke in the same spot a while ago. Remove the side view mirror first. There is a plastic stop in the vertical track that has to come out. Then it's just a matter of getting the regulator arms in the right spot to slip the rollers into the channel.
I used wheel bearing grease for the channel and rollers.
This might help a little. Courtesy of Shoebox:
http://shbox.com/1/window_regulator2.wmv
I used wheel bearing grease for the channel and rollers.
This might help a little. Courtesy of Shoebox:
http://shbox.com/1/window_regulator2.wmv
I think the Syl-Glyde grease will make the new window work better for you. Others have used bearing grease without problems, but that mixes silicone-based and lithium-based greases, which won't play together as nicely as if it was all the same type.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 135
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From: San Diego
Yea, but the only way you can do this is to take off the small inner track inside the door. (Its real easy to do.) Once you do that, the regulator arms should move a lot more freely.
I think the Syl-Glyde grease will make the new window work better for you. Others have used bearing grease without problems, but that mixes silicone-based and lithium-based greases, which won't play together as nicely as if it was all the same type.
I think the Syl-Glyde grease will make the new window work better for you. Others have used bearing grease without problems, but that mixes silicone-based and lithium-based greases, which won't play together as nicely as if it was all the same type.
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Verdad Gallardo Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Jul 2011
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From: San Diego
Alright got the window in tho it was a pain. Taking off the mirror definitely helped give me room. I found that getting the back regulator roller out was pretty simple by sliding the window all the way forward. The real pain was getting the front one out. I found it easier once I slid the window all the way towards the back of the door and took a vice grips to bend the front of the channel a bit so the roller could get out easier then I just popped it out pretty much. Getting the other window in with that roller that is attached to it was somewhat of a challenge tho but I got it then it was just the matter of getting front roller in same way I took it out of the other window and then the back one pretty much went right in by sliding window all the way forward and putting it in. Then unbolted the channel in the door so I could slide the other roller in that was attached to the window and then did some adjusting and it was done. Now I gotta do window motors..... ha
Teching In
Joined: May 2021
Posts: 38
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From: The Firebird spent most of it's live through the winters of Indiana. Now in D.C.
There is a hair line tear in the metal the roller stud was pulled from the hole.
I just found this problem on my 2001 firebird today. I'm not a welder. I'm still searching for window track, or someway to add a large washer. My damage isn't as bad as yours, the hole was ripped and made larger.
Last edited by BimRon; Feb 21, 2022 at 06:48 PM. Reason: added pictures
If you take the car to a body shop, they should be able to weld it for you for just a few bucks. Doing other things for a patch job could put you in a worse (more expensive) spot in the future.
Teching In
Joined: May 2021
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From: The Firebird spent most of it's live through the winters of Indiana. Now in D.C.
As a temporary fix, I put in a bolt with some washers. I left the washers loose, to match the natural wobble of the OEM roller's wheel. I've finally had enough of the rattling noise and ready to fix it right. I seen somewhere else, a person drilled a hole in the bottom of the roller stud, then attached it back in place with a screw. I finally got a hole drilled in the roller stud. I'll try to re-install it tonight. If all fails, I'll take off the door panel, and have the repair shop weld it in when I get my new muffler installed later this week.
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2022
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From: Bay Area California
Window Roller Pops Out of Rail after being Welded onto Window Do you have any suggestions as to why a roller (which remains attached to the stud i had welded back onto the window after the rivet broke) would pop out of the vertical rail?
I have a 96 trans am and the roller + stud was pulled out of the window frame (like everyone else on this thread). It was originally riveted on, but I was able to get a local body shop to weld it back on (great suggestions above). In doing the weld, the roller melted (despite efforts to not do that), so I put a new aftermarket roller on the welded stud as a replacement. This:
https://www.classicindustries.com/pr...E&gclsrc=aw.ds
After successfully installing the window again and using the car for about two weeks, the roller popped out of the vertical rail. It’s firmly attached to the stud thats firmly welded to the window rail.
Any idea what force would be pulling it out? I’m wondering if the rails need to be re-greased to allow the roller to slide up more easily. Although I’m also concerned that adding more grease will make it easier for the roller to pop out. Any suggestions? Thanks everyone!
also, I’m now wondering if the plastic hooks that stop the window from going too far up are the problem. If the window doesn’t get caught by them, maybe that’s what’s popping the roller out. Any help is appreciated!
I have a 96 trans am and the roller + stud was pulled out of the window frame (like everyone else on this thread). It was originally riveted on, but I was able to get a local body shop to weld it back on (great suggestions above). In doing the weld, the roller melted (despite efforts to not do that), so I put a new aftermarket roller on the welded stud as a replacement. This:
https://www.classicindustries.com/pr...E&gclsrc=aw.ds
After successfully installing the window again and using the car for about two weeks, the roller popped out of the vertical rail. It’s firmly attached to the stud thats firmly welded to the window rail.
Any idea what force would be pulling it out? I’m wondering if the rails need to be re-greased to allow the roller to slide up more easily. Although I’m also concerned that adding more grease will make it easier for the roller to pop out. Any suggestions? Thanks everyone!
also, I’m now wondering if the plastic hooks that stop the window from going too far up are the problem. If the window doesn’t get caught by them, maybe that’s what’s popping the roller out. Any help is appreciated!
Last edited by ManualWS6; Sep 26, 2022 at 10:59 PM.
I would definitely go to the shbox site and follow all the instructions there on re-adjusting the window to make sure the geometry is right. Outside of that, my guess is that the new roller you purchased might be slightly smaller than the OEM version.
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2022
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From: Bay Area California
http://shbox.com/1/adj_window.html
Teching In
Joined: May 2021
Posts: 38
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From: The Firebird spent most of it's live through the winters of Indiana. Now in D.C.
Very true that roller diameters can be different, as well as the length of the stud. I hope you fixed your problem. I ended up modifying the length of a replacement stud I bought on Amazon.com.
