May 13, 2016, 03:14 PM
Last edit by: IB Advertising
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Yup.....rebuilding the front end.....new upper and lower arms....tie rods, bushings, end links and my rebuilt 9 year old shocks.
It was the only repair I've ever done where I was literally speech less after I went for a ride.
Its so overlooked...the years go by and you don't realize the gradual degradation.
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It was the only repair I've ever done where I was literally speech less after I went for a ride.
Its so overlooked...the years go by and you don't realize the gradual degradation.
.
Denso 02 sensors. Rockauto.com or amazon should be $40 each
Ngk tr555 spark plugs from oreilleys
Cheapo spark plug wires from autozone
Fuel filter from oreilleys was $8
As mentioned the o2's dont need to be replaced at a specific mileage however if you are going to make a day out of it you may as well knock them out and keep the old ones as a spare set.
Do not get a k&n filter. Get a cheapo Fram as the k&n are way too oily for our mass air sensors.
If you plan on keeping the car a while you may want to go ahead an order window motors
Ngk tr555 spark plugs from oreilleys
Cheapo spark plug wires from autozone
Fuel filter from oreilleys was $8
As mentioned the o2's dont need to be replaced at a specific mileage however if you are going to make a day out of it you may as well knock them out and keep the old ones as a spare set.
Do not get a k&n filter. Get a cheapo Fram as the k&n are way too oily for our mass air sensors.
If you plan on keeping the car a while you may want to go ahead an order window motors
Thread Starter
Launching!
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 218
Likes: 0
From: Elk Grove Village, IL
Got all my parts in today and will be doing my plugs and fuel filter sometime this weekend if I have time. I want to run this tank with seafoam in it through then put it in my crank case after. See how it runs then.
Hell yea......
But to have ball joints and bushings changed in factory upper and lower control arms.....it'll cost you more than $500. Its HELL to change them. I bought two upper and two lower arms on this forum that were in new condition....$45.00.
I did all new bushings and ball joints for my front end last year....after 200,000 + miles on my car.......jeez it was like a brand new car. It was so bad the tire alignment guy said there's no way he can align it...lol Its such a slow process of degradation that I didn't realize how terrible it was.
Of course though, I had to rebuild my QA1 shocks and I bought new Bilstiens for the rear.
Change radiator hoses before they pop or split. Including the coolant crossover line and overflow tank fill line.
Dump a full can of SeaFoam into 1/8 tank of gas and run it out....THEN change the fuel filter.
Regarding 02 sensors......they either work or they don't. Don't waste the money on them unless they are failing. Only a scan can tell you how they are working.
Drain all the brake fluid and replace it completely. Make sure its done right WITHOUT running the master cylinder dry.
Top end cleaning..........DO NOT USE SeaFoam. Use MCCC (Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner). If you can't find that......make sure you use a TOP END CLEANER.....NOT SeaFoam.
If its never been done.....You should really take the A/C condensor out and have it professionally cleaned.....I'm talking about the outside of it. This will require a new A/C charge, but most A/C shops will capture your old and put it back in when you're back together.
Clean the radiators exterior too........
MUCH better engine cooling with a clean condensor and radiator.
Bulbs are cheap....change all the tail light bulbs. Mine were actually dark and burned but still not blown. I changed mine on one side last week......holy brightness batman. I thought I had some other issue. Just darkened bulbs........
.
But to have ball joints and bushings changed in factory upper and lower control arms.....it'll cost you more than $500. Its HELL to change them. I bought two upper and two lower arms on this forum that were in new condition....$45.00.
I did all new bushings and ball joints for my front end last year....after 200,000 + miles on my car.......jeez it was like a brand new car. It was so bad the tire alignment guy said there's no way he can align it...lol Its such a slow process of degradation that I didn't realize how terrible it was.
Of course though, I had to rebuild my QA1 shocks and I bought new Bilstiens for the rear.
Change radiator hoses before they pop or split. Including the coolant crossover line and overflow tank fill line.
Dump a full can of SeaFoam into 1/8 tank of gas and run it out....THEN change the fuel filter.
Regarding 02 sensors......they either work or they don't. Don't waste the money on them unless they are failing. Only a scan can tell you how they are working.
Drain all the brake fluid and replace it completely. Make sure its done right WITHOUT running the master cylinder dry.
Top end cleaning..........DO NOT USE SeaFoam. Use MCCC (Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner). If you can't find that......make sure you use a TOP END CLEANER.....NOT SeaFoam.
If its never been done.....You should really take the A/C condensor out and have it professionally cleaned.....I'm talking about the outside of it. This will require a new A/C charge, but most A/C shops will capture your old and put it back in when you're back together.
Clean the radiators exterior too........
MUCH better engine cooling with a clean condensor and radiator.
Bulbs are cheap....change all the tail light bulbs. Mine were actually dark and burned but still not blown. I changed mine on one side last week......holy brightness batman. I thought I had some other issue. Just darkened bulbs........
.
Clean your MAF
Clean your TB (remove from intake and clean it good!)
Clean your intake
Plugs/Wires/Fuel filter/Air filter
Thread Starter
Launching!
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 218
Likes: 0
From: Elk Grove Village, IL
Just ran the sea foam through my gas tank. I checked my gas mileage and got 20.5 MPG. Going to then do it through my crank case and then vacuum lines next maybe this weekend if I got time. I figured I'd hold off on doing the plugs, air filter and fuel filter till I do all of that getting the gunk out.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 734
Likes: 0
From: south jersey. again
K&N's are garbage....all they do is make your MAF dirty and then your performance is decreased more and more from that point. Regardless of what anyone says.......The oil that goes onto the K&N filters comes off if its foggy out, rainy out or if you go for a drive on wet roads after it rains. FACT. It reactivates the oil and makes it shed from the K&N filter. It goes right on the MAF and coats it with that crap oil.
Does the engine just run like crap...NO. But its ever so slightly killing performance little by little.
Leave the K&N's to road racers, they can barely oil it, still keep the big chunks out and have a little better flow. But they don't care, they rebuild engines 5 times a year.
And they DO NOT protect your engine from small particles as good as a paper filter, not even close. More airflow getting through = more dirt getting through also. Power gains claimed by K&N....all bullshit lies. You cannot put a car on a dyno, do two back-to-back pulls at the same engine temp and get two identcial HP/TQ numbers. IMPOSSIBLE. All they do is keep doing dyno pulls until they see a higher number, then they tell everyone, "Hey, we have a 5 HP gain." Its bullshit......
Do yourself a favor and get a Mann air filter. Best one out there. Protect your engine properly and give up that .0000001 HP increase K&N claims.....
.
Does the engine just run like crap...NO. But its ever so slightly killing performance little by little.
Leave the K&N's to road racers, they can barely oil it, still keep the big chunks out and have a little better flow. But they don't care, they rebuild engines 5 times a year.
And they DO NOT protect your engine from small particles as good as a paper filter, not even close. More airflow getting through = more dirt getting through also. Power gains claimed by K&N....all bullshit lies. You cannot put a car on a dyno, do two back-to-back pulls at the same engine temp and get two identcial HP/TQ numbers. IMPOSSIBLE. All they do is keep doing dyno pulls until they see a higher number, then they tell everyone, "Hey, we have a 5 HP gain." Its bullshit......
Do yourself a favor and get a Mann air filter. Best one out there. Protect your engine properly and give up that .0000001 HP increase K&N claims.....
.
if i lost the race then i rebuilt.
