So I figured I just rolled over 100k and would like to do a pretty through maintenance check on my car. I was wondering what some type of spark plug, fuel filters, pads & rotor suggestions. If there is anything else major I should be looking for im open for suggestions.

 

Shout out from TN! Dude check out nastyperformamce.com, sponser here has MSD/NGK pkg. cheap. Also reading some guys changing O2's, maybe someone else can jump in on that. I personally flush/filled radiator,trans(a4),rear end, oil change, all with royal purple. Didn't go over the top with air/fuel filters, re-charged the trusty k&n, fuel filter from autozone. Dont know much about seafoam treatment but alot of folks using it. I'm sure others have some quality advice!!

 

shocks, ball joints, bushings and tie rods.

 

Hell yea......

But to have ball joints and bushings changed in factory upper and lower control arms.....it'll cost you more than $500. Its HELL to change them. I bought two upper and two lower arms on this forum that were in new condition....$45.00.

I did all new bushings and ball joints for my front end last year....after 200,000 + miles on my car.......jeez it was like a brand new car. It was so bad the tire alignment guy said there's no way he can align it...lol Its such a slow process of degradation that I didn't realize how terrible it was.

Of course though, I had to rebuild my QA1 shocks and I bought new Bilstiens for the rear.

Change radiator hoses before they pop or split. Including the coolant crossover line and overflow tank fill line.

Dump a full can of SeaFoam into 1/8 tank of gas and run it out....THEN change the fuel filter.

Regarding 02 sensors......they either work or they don't. Don't waste the money on them unless they are failing. Only a scan can tell you how they are working.

Drain all the brake fluid and replace it completely. Make sure its done right WITHOUT running the master cylinder dry.

Top end cleaning..........DO NOT USE SeaFoam. Use MCCC (Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner). If you can't find that......make sure you use a TOP END CLEANER.....NOT SeaFoam.

If its never been done.....You should really take the A/C condensor out and have it professionally cleaned.....I'm talking about the outside of it. This will require a new A/C charge, but most A/C shops will capture your old and put it back in when you're back together.
Clean the radiators exterior too........
MUCH better engine cooling with a clean condensor and radiator.

Bulbs are cheap....change all the tail light bulbs. Mine were actually dark and burned but still not blown. I changed mine on one side last week......holy brightness batman. I thought I had some other issue. Just darkened bulbs........

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Looks like I have some saving up to do haha ! But I think if i can will have my rotors turned and just do my pads along with bleeding the system. I recently just did my coolant drain and replace not too long ago. Do these cars have cabin filters? No one mentioned anything about the rear end fluid..any insight on that area?

 

Spark plugs
Wires
Fuel filter
O2 sensors (yes they can fail and not trigger check engine lights)

Tie rod end links are next, however if your steering isn't loose you probably don't need to replace them.

These cars for the most part are simple to work on. Is there AnythIng specifically needed at 100k? No, however it's never a bad thing to replace plugs and flush out the coolant system.

What to look for: oil leaks, window motors failing, random sensors going out. With regular maintenance these cars have been known to go to 200k miles on the motors

 

Don't forget to clean your mass air flow sensor especially if you're using a k&n filter. Maf cleaner or rubbing alcohol on a q tip work well but be very gentle as the sensor wires are fragile

 

Thanks a lot you guys I really appreciate all the input!! I'm going to try and buy some of the goodies today. I've been told to just get the OEM replacement parts for things like the spark plugs and fuel filter. Any suggestions regarding that?

 

NGK spark plugs....gap them yourself to .050 with a gap tool (.50 cents). Get the TR55 or TR5....they're the same plug. Just check the gaps on all of them first. Put anti-seize on each of the plug threads and di-electric grease all over the ceramic part and metal tip of the plug, and put a blob inside BOTH ends of the spark plug wires before snapping them on.

Fuel filters....any kind. They're like $12.00.

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I'm probably going to go ahead and do some AC Delco plugs. I feel as if the OEM plugs unless it is a race car is the best way to go.

 

Speaking of O2 sensors im getting a bank 2 circuit 2 code?

Anyways whats the best brand and place to get new O2's?

 

Don't worry about replacing all those front end parts unless they are loose/worn. Replace your brakes when they get worn, not by mileage. **** all that msd bs, just get some regular wires or ac delco wires and you will be fine. Don't worry about o2 sensors, especially if your engine is running just fine.

 

I 'll add another question to the mix.

How to clean the engine bay of all the greases/ grime/ dirt?

 

Get a degreaser, cover anything electrical up and then give it a quick blast

 

I can for sure chime in on the degreasing. I used to be in the detailing business actually. Honestly I never found too many times when it was necessary to cover up electrical stuff unless it was really out in the open. I know they normally say to cover the alternator and those sort of things but then you don't really get those cleaned. What I did would degrease the big heavy stuff that was near belts and any moving parts first. Then I'd start the engine up, spray it down with water and then the degreaser. Do your scrubbin and your good to go.

I just ordered some OEM AC Delco Spark Plugs and a Fuel Filter from my dealership. So I got them for super cheap. I'll get them on monday!

 

No but I added one to mine almost a year ago and i still done get dirt flying in my eyes and still get great pressure, i was probably going to get back under there and check out how its doing tomorrow.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...cares-lol.html

 

No biggie really, NGK is "perhaps" better, but they're so close it makes zero difference in a stock car.

I'd get some $36.00 spark plug wires from Advance Auto....its all you need and the AC Delco wires will offer zero in any type of performance gain or mileage. I have Advance Auto wires on my 427ci, going on like 6 years, they're great.

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trans fluid and filter if auto, rear diff service with limited slip, spark plugs,

 

Things I have recently done in the last 1000 miles are
-New Clutch
-Resurfaced Flywheel
-Tick Slave Cylinder
-New Trans Fluid
-Coolant Drain and Replace

Just Tonight
-Checked all tire pressures (nothing big I'll be putting in Nitrogen at my work next week though and see how I like it)
-Took my back seats out (Not really maintenance but now I don't have to put my fatass friends in the back anymore)
-Cleaned MAF & Air Lid

Air Filter is really nasty so I'll be buying a K&N this weekend probably Sunday and my Spark Plugs & Fuel Filter will be here Monday at work. I'm looking into do my rear end fluid for sure though. I heard there are many upgrades that you can get better performance actually just from replacing the Rear Cover? Is this true?

 

K&N's are garbage....all they do is make your MAF dirty and then your performance is decreased more and more from that point. Regardless of what anyone says.......The oil that goes onto the K&N filters comes off if its foggy out, rainy out or if you go for a drive on wet roads after it rains. FACT. It reactivates the oil and makes it shed from the K&N filter. It goes right on the MAF and coats it with that crap oil.
Does the engine just run like crap...NO. But its ever so slightly killing performance little by little.
Leave the K&N's to road racers, they can barely oil it, still keep the big chunks out and have a little better flow. But they don't care, they rebuild engines 5 times a year.

And they DO NOT protect your engine from small particles as good as a paper filter, not even close. More airflow getting through = more dirt getting through also. Power gains claimed by K&N....all bullshit lies. You cannot put a car on a dyno, do two back-to-back pulls at the same engine temp and get two identcial HP/TQ numbers. IMPOSSIBLE. All they do is keep doing dyno pulls until they see a higher number, then they tell everyone, "Hey, we have a 5 HP gain." Its bullshit......

Do yourself a favor and get a Mann air filter. Best one out there. Protect your engine properly and give up that .0000001 HP increase K&N claims.....

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