WEIRD door window gremlin..........
WEIRD door window gremlin.......... The passenger side motor operates fast and strong.
BUT.......that window will not move SOMETIMES when I get into my car and use the drivers side button. But if I reach over and use the passenger side button it will move........THEN I can immediately come back over and use my driver side button. Passengers side button always works.
Then sometimes I get in the car and the driver side button works just fine all day to operate the passengers side window.
The driver side buttons look perfect. Wires are good and planted into the back of the switch tight. Do they start to break internally?
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BUT.......that window will not move SOMETIMES when I get into my car and use the drivers side button. But if I reach over and use the passenger side button it will move........THEN I can immediately come back over and use my driver side button. Passengers side button always works.
Then sometimes I get in the car and the driver side button works just fine all day to operate the passengers side window.
The driver side buttons look perfect. Wires are good and planted into the back of the switch tight. Do they start to break internally?
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Teching In
Joined: Dec 2011
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Copper stranded wiring does break inside of insulation and can cause intermittant problems like you are describing. The most common place on power window and power door locks is inside the rubber boot in the door jamb where all the flexing in the wiring is occurring due to door opening and closing. Get a wiring schematic, identify two wires from driver's switch to passenger motor and try to get window in failure mode then trace wire back and test power and ground with test light until you find open circuit. At this point pull on each side of wire and it will usually break in half in your hands, insulation only thing holding it together. The stranded wire was making contact at times completing circuit.
Good luck, Chris
Good luck, Chris
One known problem is with the BCM ( body control module ) due to the solder getting old and not passing current. Usually the radio or other things associated with that BCM malfunction too.
See if you have multiple issues at once, maybe this is the issue? Try a search here for BCM repair/diagnosis for a detailed writeup, that is how I learned of this. I have not done a repair of this sort, just an idea...
See if you have multiple issues at once, maybe this is the issue? Try a search here for BCM repair/diagnosis for a detailed writeup, that is how I learned of this. I have not done a repair of this sort, just an idea...
Yes, the switch contacts can wear out internally. All of these problems can be explained by a bad window switch on the driver's side console.
The switch on the passenger side is wired through the switch on the driver's side. So, even when you are not using the switch on the driver's side, power for the passenger side window is still flowing through its contacts.
The switch on the passenger side is wired through the switch on the driver's side. So, even when you are not using the switch on the driver's side, power for the passenger side window is still flowing through its contacts.
Yes, the switch contacts can wear out internally. All of these problems can be explained by a bad window switch on the driver's side console.
The switch on the passenger side is wired through the switch on the driver's side. So, even when you are not using the switch on the driver's side, power for the passenger side window is still flowing through its contacts.
The switch on the passenger side is wired through the switch on the driver's side. So, even when you are not using the switch on the driver's side, power for the passenger side window is still flowing through its contacts.
When I had the door panel off last time I didn't notice...........where does that wire plug into? I mean from the switch where does the other end connect in the door?
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If your radio cuts off sometimes as well that is a good indication its the body control module...my car does it with the radio and the windows and ill be repairing it when I get home from afghanland
For the driver side glass: Power comes in to the driver's door switch, then back to the express up/down module, and then to the door motor.
For the passenger side glass: Power comes in to the driver's door switch, then over to the passenger's door switch, and then to the door motor. (No express module on that side.)
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The wiring is more complex than one would expect.
For the driver side glass: Power comes in to the driver's door switch, then back to the express up/down module, and then to the door motor.
For the passenger side glass: Power comes in to the driver's door switch, then over to the passenger's door switch, and then to the door motor. (No express module on that side.)
For the driver side glass: Power comes in to the driver's door switch, then back to the express up/down module, and then to the door motor.
For the passenger side glass: Power comes in to the driver's door switch, then over to the passenger's door switch, and then to the door motor. (No express module on that side.)
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Verdad Gallardo You'll unplug the harness connectors from the switch panel, then pop the switch unit out of the plastic panel, then re-assemble in reverse.
When you pop the switch out of the panel, be careful. The plastic gets brittle and can break if you push it too far. That's what I did here when I had the same issue: https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...im-repair.html
Yea, the switch is a single unit, which includes the two switches that sit side-by-side in the panel.
You'll unplug the harness connectors from the switch panel, then pop the switch unit out of the plastic panel, then re-assemble in reverse.
When you pop the switch out of the panel, be careful. The plastic gets brittle and can break if you push it too far. That's what I did here when I had the same issue: https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...im-repair.html
You'll unplug the harness connectors from the switch panel, then pop the switch unit out of the plastic panel, then re-assemble in reverse.
When you pop the switch out of the panel, be careful. The plastic gets brittle and can break if you push it too far. That's what I did here when I had the same issue: https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...im-repair.html
Thanks......I'll do this sooner now, I was dreading taking that door panel off.
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You just need a flat head screw driver to pry that switch panel off. 