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Which radiator should i get??
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 19
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Which radiator should i get?? So after tracking down my coolant leak I found out my radiator has a crack in side of it, it leaks when the temp gets hot. It has a cheap plastic type radiator in it now, my question is does anybody recommend an aftermarket radiator?? I def wanna get an aluminum one.
Also any tips on replacing it?
Also any tips on replacing it?
So after tracking down my coolant leak I found out my radiator has a crack in side of it, it leaks when the temp gets hot. It has a cheap plastic type radiator in it now, my question is does anybody recommend an aftermarket radiator?? I def wanna get an aluminum one.
Also any tips on replacing it?
Also any tips on replacing it?
If you want an all metal radiator.......they are upwards of $500.00.
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i recently put a new radiator in my ta. wanted a becool but they are about 500 bones. went with stock replacement from advance for $120 w/ discount code. cant be it for the price. i have heard good things about the lt1 radiator though
Good thing about using an LT1 radiator....that extra port makes for a great flush drain. Never have to use that ridiculous factory petcock thing.
The extra port is the ONLY difference in the radiators, except that the LT1 cools better.......it installs exactly the same and fits exactly the same.
Here's mine. See the port with my 6 inch piece of heater hose clamped on. Plug in the end with a clamp too.
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The extra port is the ONLY difference in the radiators, except that the LT1 cools better.......it installs exactly the same and fits exactly the same.
Here's mine. See the port with my 6 inch piece of heater hose clamped on. Plug in the end with a clamp too.
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Teching In
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
From: Ft Rucker, Alabama
I purchased a aluminum radiator off ebay. w/ fans and radiator it was about $190.00. came in fast and fits directly in. Only isue is that for my 1995 TA the hose connectors don't match (cap side has 4 plugs, and other side only has 1). It also did not come with fittings for the water pump hose connectors.
I purchased a aluminum radiator off ebay. w/ fans and radiator it was about $190.00. came in fast and fits directly in. Only isue is that for my 1995 TA the hose connectors don't match (cap side has 4 plugs, and other side only has 1). It also did not come with fittings for the water pump hose connectors.
You have a link for it?
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Installed an LT1 style radiator in my '98 last night... A nice cheap 'upgrade'! From what I've read here on LS1Tech it isn't uncommon for turbo and s/c'd guys to simply throw the LT1 in.
Last edited by SupahRich; Mar 30, 2012 at 09:54 PM. Reason: Updated post with a pic of LT1/LS1 Difference for Future Reference.
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Yea.. it is an extra 1/4" or so thicker than the LS1, so it can dissipate more heat
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 19
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Gonna go with the Be cool direct fit radiator, little on the pricey side, but all aluminum, NO epoxy, looks like good quality, where i live its mostly hot, so im not gonna half *** the cooling system.
I'm in hot *** south Florida.....a factory stock radiator can keep any N/A engine cool...IF its the cooling system is working properly. My 427ci can't overheat if I literally try to do it......
But my BIG single turbo iron blocked set-up is gonna need something bigger.......
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Teching In
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
From: Ft Rucker, Alabama
Is the BeCool also larger...meaning does it hold more coolant in quarts than the stock LT1/LS1?
I'm in hot *** south Florida.....a factory stock radiator can keep any N/A engine cool...IF its the cooling system is working properly. My 427ci can't overheat if I literally try to do it......
But my BIG single turbo iron blocked set-up is gonna need something bigger.......
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I'm in hot *** south Florida.....a factory stock radiator can keep any N/A engine cool...IF its the cooling system is working properly. My 427ci can't overheat if I literally try to do it......
But my BIG single turbo iron blocked set-up is gonna need something bigger.......
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A local fellow enthusiast who is FI was interested in whether I would lose any real estate since it was bolt in. I'm here to say you most certainly do! At almost 2" thicker, the mounting tabs for the AC condenser and fans spread the whole setup out, from ~2 7/8" spacing on the stock radiator to ~4.5" on the Be Cool. The fans are set back maybe an inch toward the engine. Also I had to bend the condensers lines slightly to get the condenser to sit on the front and the AC dryer doesn't sit in the bracket on the PS.
And almost as though to add insult to injury, there is a 1/2" NPT port on the DS and a 3/8" port on the PS for an engine oil cooler. Did the kit come with plugs for those of us who just want a stock replacement? No. So now I'm waiting for a couple of plugs I ordered from Jegs to add coolant. $10. Really, Be Cool? You couldn't toss that in for the price of your "direct fit" radiator?
If I replace my radiator on my B4C, it will be with an LT1 unit. Hope this helps someone else avoid the same mistake.
As long as the ports don't have coolant going through them, you don't "have" to block the ports. It might get dirty if you don't block them off though. It's like running a A/T radiator in a M6 car, you don't need to block off the tranny cooler, there is no coolant in there
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2015
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I'm awakening a sleeping thread at this point but I just want to give everyone a heads up.
Do not buy an Engineered Cooling Products radiator!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I would like to share my first hand experience:
My first engineered cooling products radiator started leaking within 2 months and the replacement (under warranty which they required me to pay for shipping at $44.08) started leaking on day 1. The welds are terrible and not fully sealed. Mine has a tiny pinhole that leaks.
I am demanding a refund at this point and they are not accepting. They want to send me another radiator that will obviously be broken. This is not acceptable. Your experiences may vary but this is unfortunately a true story. All I want to do is drive my car again.
Do not buy an Engineered Cooling Products radiator!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I would like to share my first hand experience:
My first engineered cooling products radiator started leaking within 2 months and the replacement (under warranty which they required me to pay for shipping at $44.08) started leaking on day 1. The welds are terrible and not fully sealed. Mine has a tiny pinhole that leaks.
I am demanding a refund at this point and they are not accepting. They want to send me another radiator that will obviously be broken. This is not acceptable. Your experiences may vary but this is unfortunately a true story. All I want to do is drive my car again.
12 Second Club
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 4,273
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From: Bucks County, Pa.
^^^Is this one of the cheap, Sino made, ebay aluminum units. or something else??
Does Griffin, Ron Davis, C&R, Fluidyne, etc. make a direct fit for our cars which will avoid the space problems the Be Cool creates??
Does Griffin, Ron Davis, C&R, Fluidyne, etc. make a direct fit for our cars which will avoid the space problems the Be Cool creates??