fastazzls1

also the a/c is controlled with a clutch, no think of the stator and rotpr as a clutch in the alternator,look it up ford has been doing this for years, and i work for porsche as a tech and they also do the same thing

fastazzls1

it does not turn it a 100% of but greatly limits its output to near nothing anyone who tunes can tell you this sorry for shitty posts i am driving and on my i phone

fastazzls1

At high speeds, the on-time may be 10 percent with the off-time at 90 percent. At low speeds, the on-time may be 90 percent and the off-time 10 percent.

this is directly from GENERAL MOTORS

sjsingle1

iTrader: (1)

need a reference......nothing in my factory manual

LS14EVR

iTrader: (3)

Well, if we can see the reference from Delphi, then I'd like to see it. Interesting. I'd like to learn more. I know you can turn on and off the compressor. It's got a clutch, but never knew they could with the alternator.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alternator

Could be. At higher RPMs, some alternators can self-excite. This doesn't mean that the alternator turns itself "off." The engine needs electricity to fire the spark plugs. The faster the engine turns, the more the spark plugs fire. The more the spark plugs fire, the more electricity is required. The alternator can not stop working at the point of the highest electrical demand!

You should check with your brother again on this... I'd bet that its just the exciter.

Nope, the alternator turns a winding through a magnetic field. You have generators and motors mixed up here. The process of turning the alternator through the magnetic field takes force to accomplish.

Sure, if you can self-excite, you can turn off the exciter and safe some hp. But again, this doesn't mean that the alternator is no longer producing electricity, its just doesn't need the extra help from the exciter circuit.

THIS, THIS, THIS! is a great point. If an alternator is failing, the voltage should drop slowly as the battery drains. The OP's problem could just be a loose wire that is getting knocked around as the engine kicks at high RPM.

LS1Pariah

AND THE WINNER IS!

Ding! Ding! Ding!!

The truck alternator!
Thanks for playing, /topic.

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

I disagree, but you don't have to take my word for it. All you have to do is run a scan log and track voltage before and during WOT. If the system is working properly, you won't see the significant voltage drop that would be associated with the alternator/charging capabilities being "shut off" at WOT as you have stated.

Furthermore, the truck alternators may be a superior design, and obviously have provided some relief for some people having charging issues, but it's not getting at the original root of their problem IMO. These engines/cars were able to charge adequately (albeit a bit low at idle with a full accessory load) with stock electrical systems and stock charging components when new, so unless you've added additional load or are using a poor quality rebuild, then the issue is more than just charging capacity of the alternator - and the higher output truck units are likely just masking other issues. I think more often than not, the real issue is people getting rebuilds that are not of the same quality as the OEM original alternator. I've had lots of disappointing rebuilds from retail parts store chains over the years myself.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

AMEN!!! If the problem came with the installation of a different alternator, something other than the alternator sizing is the issue.

sjsingle1

iTrader: (1)

would not trade my truck alt for a pile of gold.......well maybe ;P

lil-bit

So get a new alt?

sjsingle1

iTrader: (1)

so few places you can get a NEW alt......99% are remans

1ltcap

DO NOT DO THIS.

this is a good fast way to cook your ecu.

1ltcap

an average alternator costs about 5 hp to run. there is an advantage to turning it off, which can be done. honda's been doing it for years.

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

I can't speak for every/all applications, but I can say that this is not how the LS1s work. I've run many scan logs of WOT voltage in the past, due to an issue I was diagnosing several years ago, and I can tell you that alternator output does not drop off to nothing or near nothing at WOT with a properly working system (LS1).

Anyone that wishes to test this can do so quite easily and see for themselves if they have a comprehensive OBD scanner.

1ltcap

i wasn't saying that these cars can do it...or that they do. i was simply stating that it can be done.

LS14EVR

iTrader: (3)

Well, I guess I learned something new today. That is can be turned off so to speak. I would like to see some real world testing numbers of how much is gained by doing this. 1ltcap says 5hp, but is that by removing it from the belt all together, or just by so called turning it off?

1ltcap

no.....simply turning it off. if it's not producing voltage, then it simply freewheels.

DisasterFormula

iTrader: (1)

If you knew that F-bodies don't do it, then why the fck would you come in here talking about it and just trying to confuse everyone. Absolutely no relevance to this topic. That's like someone asking, "What company had the first variable displacement prototype," and you go and tell 'em, "Well Honda started doing their version of it in 2005."

1ltcap

where in any of my posts does it become obvious that i knew these cars don't do this?