Has anyone deleted the power steering cooler with success
04-25-2012, 02:11 PM
#21
I actually just finished installing an aftermarket cooler for my '00 SS and was a very simple install. I also had to flush the system because of coolant contamination, but that too was simple.
By the way, Thank you LS6427 for the help on that. Followed his instructions and it all went well. I still have to make a cut on the bottom for the cooler to get more air, but will do that later.
By the way, Thank you LS6427 for the help on that. Followed his instructions and it all went well. I still have to make a cut on the bottom for the cooler to get more air, but will do that later.
YES....absolutely do that cut out, it makes all the difference.........it will run WAY WAY cooler temps than without it.
***Actually, maybe get some temp readings on the coolers exit port (at the metal, not the rubber) going back to the fluid reservoir BEFORE doing the cut out. I want to see how much hotter it runs without the cut out. I used a laser temp gauge. Also, I can touch my cooler tubes with my hand any time and keep my hand on it, no matter how hot it is outside or how aggressive I've been driving. So maybe just try that first. BE CAREFUL, I'm presuming it might be way too hot to touch without getting burned.
I was going to put a piece of duct tape over my cut out for that temp test, but if you can do it, great.
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04-26-2012, 12:45 AM
#22
04-26-2012, 12:53 PM
#23
My write-up:
Power Steering Fluid Flush:
************************************************** **
You and 2 friends.
Jack up the front of the car and put it on jack stands so you can turn the wheels left and right.
Engine and fluids….COLD.
Remove the hose that attaches to the bottom of the reservoir. Immediately cap that port with a vacuum port type rubber cap so the fluid doesn't pour out. You can buy assorted cap kits at the auto parts store. Or you can use a 2 foot piece of 3/8" heater hose to quickly slip on the port and just point the other end up higher than the reservoir cap so none comes out. Tape it or clamp it in place.
The hose you just removed from the reservoir.......Point it down under the car into a drain pan. This is the hose either coming from the factory cooler (if you have one).....or its coming from the rack (if you do not have the factory cooler). Either way, doesn't matter.
Have a friend hold that hose into the pan and keep his thumb over the end and wait there. The entire flush is a matter of 2 minutes.
Have another friend with 4 new OPEN bottles of PS fluid ready to start dumping it into the reservoir.
You get in the car and start the engine.
Your friend removes his finger from the hose end and lets the fluid shoot into the pan. As you turn the wheels FULL right and left have your friend pour new fluid into the reservoir as the level drops. It could drop fast so be ready to pour. Fluid will come shooting out of the hose into the pan.
As soon as the friend holding the hose sees clean new fluid coming out into the pan.............stop the engine.
(if the friend that is pouring fluid in ever sees the reservoir about to run dry because he cannot pour it in fast enough, simply have him tell you to shut the engine off. Top it off and start the engine again. Don't let it run dry.)
Put the hose back onto the reservoir, clamp it. Top it off with PS fluid.
Your done.
CHECK to see if during this project you spilled any power steering fluid onto or into the alternator. If you did, simply drench it with WD-40 or SeaFoam spray to clean it. Then rinse it real good with hose water. Go for a 10 minute drive, take a bottle of fluid with you in case you hear any noise you can pull over immediately and top it off. Then come back and check the level one more time. Its fine to take the cap off when its hot. Top off the fluid if needed.
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04-26-2012, 04:56 PM
#25
Also, make sure your "excitor wire" is in good shape and didn't break or come unplugged.
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04-26-2012, 05:33 PM
#26
Yes, PS fluid kills alternators. Drench the **** out of it with a full can of WD-40 or SeaFoam spray. Let it sit about 15 minutes and rinse it with hose water. Maybe even do half a can, then rinse, then do it again. ((If you know there's been PS fluid dripping on it)) You can blast alternators directly with a hose, don't worry about it.
Also, make sure your "excitor wire" is in good shape and didn't break or come unplugged.
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Also, make sure your "excitor wire" is in good shape and didn't break or come unplugged.
.
04-26-2012, 06:15 PM
#28
I'm going to have to go get a can of WD40 after school and try it. I'm crossing my fingers and hoping it will work, at least until the new alternator gets here. I know for a fact that power steering fluid got into the alternator when we were flushing the power steering system, AT NIGHT.
04-26-2012, 07:21 PM
#30
I'm going to have to go get a can of WD40 after school and try it. I'm crossing my fingers and hoping it will work, at least until the new alternator gets here. I know for a fact that power steering fluid got into the alternator when we were flushing the power steering system, AT NIGHT.
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04-26-2012, 08:56 PM
#31
Guys...
Please don't spray WD-40 anywhere on your car unless you are loosening a rusted bolt.
WD-40 is a penetrating oil and a solvent. If you spray it on a mechanical piece of equipment, it will dissolve rust, unwanted oils, BUT it will also dissolve the "good" grease in the bearings. This will certainly cause the part to fail.
Power steering fluid does not hurt alternators. In order for it to upset the alternator function, it would have to be a magnetic fluid, which its not. The windings are coated, the electronics are sealed, and alternators are used to being dirty. (The pick up grease and road grime as a natural part of their doing business.)
I guess if an alternator is "dead," there's noting to loose in bathing it in WD-40 as a hail mary pass, but any result would be short lived. I'd take it to a parts store to be tested before trying a shade tree fix. The alternator could be perfectly good. The only way to know for sure is to put it on a tester.
Please don't spray WD-40 anywhere on your car unless you are loosening a rusted bolt.
WD-40 is a penetrating oil and a solvent. If you spray it on a mechanical piece of equipment, it will dissolve rust, unwanted oils, BUT it will also dissolve the "good" grease in the bearings. This will certainly cause the part to fail.
Power steering fluid does not hurt alternators. In order for it to upset the alternator function, it would have to be a magnetic fluid, which its not. The windings are coated, the electronics are sealed, and alternators are used to being dirty. (The pick up grease and road grime as a natural part of their doing business.)
I guess if an alternator is "dead," there's noting to loose in bathing it in WD-40 as a hail mary pass, but any result would be short lived. I'd take it to a parts store to be tested before trying a shade tree fix. The alternator could be perfectly good. The only way to know for sure is to put it on a tester.
04-26-2012, 09:18 PM
#33
When I did my factory PS fluid delete years and years ago I dumped PS fluid all over my alternator, but I knew it happened. WD-40 or SeaFoam spray is what I mused ((can't remember which I had)) and it cleaned it all out of there and its been running great for years and years now.
So your alternator died for another reason.......
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04-28-2012, 04:13 PM
#34
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Well may as well learn more about this, so my problem was with the pump, didnt have the money to delete stock cooler just yet, after i replace the old PS pump i have this wicked noise on acceleration, plus i ripped the excitor wire. Did i get a bad new PS pump, and do i have to get a new pigtail due to the location the wire tore off.
Video of noise from PS pump
http://s4.photobucket.com/albums/y12...8-11-34-29.mp4
Could my pulley be to far back and that is what is causing the noise?
Picture of alternator connector that tore. Do the v6 98-02's have the same connector?
Video of noise from PS pump
http://s4.photobucket.com/albums/y12...8-11-34-29.mp4
Could my pulley be to far back and that is what is causing the noise?
Picture of alternator connector that tore. Do the v6 98-02's have the same connector?
04-28-2012, 08:41 PM
#35
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One last picture, one of the lines is different than the stock pump, could this be the cause the whine
The new pump has a line sticking up, before both lines were below the pump
The new pump has a line sticking up, before both lines were below the pump
05-28-2013, 03:04 PM
#38
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My 2000 Z28 does not have it. I'm the third owner and know the second owner, and the car is still bone stock, so I doubt the original owner removed it, but it's possible. Could be a mid year change too I guess.
I'm definitely planning on adding something before any autocross.
I'm definitely planning on adding something before any autocross.
I know because I ordered mine that way (it was the ONLY option I ordered, along with the GS-C tires), even though I have since deleted it and installed (mounted behind my empty fog light opening in the front fascia for cool air) a stacked plate air to fluid p.s. cooler (yes, for autocross/open tracking/etc.).
Last edited by dailydriver; 05-28-2013 at 03:13 PM.
10-29-2015, 02:52 AM
#39
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Power steering fluid mixed with coolant Wow, long time since any one has posted on this thread. Anyways, I picked up an 02 SS a few weeks ago and everything was fine until recently. I can hear noise coming from the engine every time I turn the steering wheel. I started looking online and found this to be a common issue on this cars. It turns out that the power steering fluid has leaked into the radiator. I'm still undecided if I should attempt to repair this myself or take the car to a shop.. Wondering if any one has ran into such an issue recently if adding a separate ps cooler is still the best route for this.
