Short cycling of A/C
04-27-2012, 08:55 PM
#1
11 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (15)
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 881
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Short cycling of A/C My ride is back on the road with new built trans/stall and retuned... Drive it as much as i can, only problem is my ac started short cycling. And as we know, you need ac in texas.
I checked the charge and appears to be ok, should i bypass the low or high pressure switch one at a time, to see if its undercharged, or overcharged?
The buddy who fixed my car when it got wrecked, vacuumed the lines and added charge. Its been sitting for a while, 5 months or so. And was winter so never really used the ac until now.
Any Ideas/suggestion, on where to do next?...
I checked the charge and appears to be ok, should i bypass the low or high pressure switch one at a time, to see if its undercharged, or overcharged?
The buddy who fixed my car when it got wrecked, vacuumed the lines and added charge. Its been sitting for a while, 5 months or so. And was winter so never really used the ac until now.
Any Ideas/suggestion, on where to do next?...
04-27-2012, 09:16 PM
#2
On The Tree
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Westminster, CO
Posts: 194
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Sounds like the pressures are off/ it's low on charge. Check pressures, if it's low it needs filled and dye added so you can find the leak next time it starts acting up
04-28-2012, 08:01 AM
#3
11 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (15)
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 881
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
What pressures should I be at? I know its according to ambient temperature. Im at around 84 to 88 degrees in my area.
Any help would be greatly appreciated...
Any help would be greatly appreciated...
04-28-2012, 10:36 AM
#5
11 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (15)
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 881
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thats the thing... I rigged up an automotive connection to my refrigerant manifolds i use for work. They read 134a r22 r410a and others, dont have the specific range on them.
Trending Topics
04-30-2012, 06:29 PM
#8
I have a bit of experience with the ac system so I can add a little info
If your ac doesn't engage, like when your turn the ac **** to on you don't notice the idle decrease your compressor low pressure switch has been activated. Most of the time a can of 18oz freon will top you off for 3-4 months. I like the cans that say 134+
If you notice your pressure is good, and the idle changes when it is switched on you could have a bad dryer/ evap canister.
If your car jerks noticeably every couple of seconds after adding a can of freon you have probably triggered the high pressure switch. If your car stutters and dies when the ac is turned on the compressor has seized
To add freon to the system hook the nozzle from the ac kit to the evap canister. The canister is the aluminum canister behind the battery.
I recommend the trigger canister with a pressure gauge on it. Max pressure should be around 40
If you do have a major issue and need to replace the compressor or canister be sure you check your lines for any metal shavings. If there are shavings in your system it could destroy any new parts you install
An ac vacuum tool can be rented from autozone
Those are the most common problems and issues I have encountered with the 6 different fbodies I've owned
If your ac doesn't engage, like when your turn the ac **** to on you don't notice the idle decrease your compressor low pressure switch has been activated. Most of the time a can of 18oz freon will top you off for 3-4 months. I like the cans that say 134+
If you notice your pressure is good, and the idle changes when it is switched on you could have a bad dryer/ evap canister.
If your car jerks noticeably every couple of seconds after adding a can of freon you have probably triggered the high pressure switch. If your car stutters and dies when the ac is turned on the compressor has seized
To add freon to the system hook the nozzle from the ac kit to the evap canister. The canister is the aluminum canister behind the battery.
I recommend the trigger canister with a pressure gauge on it. Max pressure should be around 40
If you do have a major issue and need to replace the compressor or canister be sure you check your lines for any metal shavings. If there are shavings in your system it could destroy any new parts you install
An ac vacuum tool can be rented from autozone
Those are the most common problems and issues I have encountered with the 6 different fbodies I've owned
05-03-2012, 11:28 AM
#9
Staging Lane
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 86
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have a bit of experience with the ac system so I can add a little info
If your ac doesn't engage, like when your turn the ac **** to on you don't notice the idle decrease your compressor low pressure switch has been activated. Most of the time a can of 18oz freon will top you off for 3-4 months. I like the cans that say 134+
If you notice your pressure is good, and the idle changes when it is switched on you could have a bad dryer/ evap canister.
If your car jerks noticeably every couple of seconds after adding a can of freon you have probably triggered the high pressure switch. If your car stutters and dies when the ac is turned on the compressor has seized
To add freon to the system hook the nozzle from the ac kit to the evap canister. The canister is the aluminum canister behind the battery.
I recommend the trigger canister with a pressure gauge on it. Max pressure should be around 40
If you do have a major issue and need to replace the compressor or canister be sure you check your lines for any metal shavings. If there are shavings in your system it could destroy any new parts you install
An ac vacuum tool can be rented from autozone
Those are the most common problems and issues I have encountered with the 6 different fbodies I've owned
If your ac doesn't engage, like when your turn the ac **** to on you don't notice the idle decrease your compressor low pressure switch has been activated. Most of the time a can of 18oz freon will top you off for 3-4 months. I like the cans that say 134+
If you notice your pressure is good, and the idle changes when it is switched on you could have a bad dryer/ evap canister.
If your car jerks noticeably every couple of seconds after adding a can of freon you have probably triggered the high pressure switch. If your car stutters and dies when the ac is turned on the compressor has seized
To add freon to the system hook the nozzle from the ac kit to the evap canister. The canister is the aluminum canister behind the battery.
I recommend the trigger canister with a pressure gauge on it. Max pressure should be around 40
If you do have a major issue and need to replace the compressor or canister be sure you check your lines for any metal shavings. If there are shavings in your system it could destroy any new parts you install
An ac vacuum tool can be rented from autozone
Those are the most common problems and issues I have encountered with the 6 different fbodies I've owned
05-05-2012, 12:11 PM
#11
Teching In
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
@ 85*f ambient my charging dispenser gives a range of 45-55 psi on the low side. Watch your low side pressure when it short cycles. If it's dropping to around 25 psi just before the compressor cuts out then you're undercharged.
05-05-2012, 01:33 PM
#12
TECH Addict
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Narnia
Posts: 2,372
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I don't know about a rigged gauge setup, but. . . . . Throw on your gauges, fire up the car with the AC on, check the pressures.
Depending on ambient air temp. you should read 30+ on the low(at lowest point) & around 200 on the high side(at highest point).
If the pressures are legit, jump the hi/low sensor or replace it. I found that the one on my Blazer is adjustable. It has a pressure screw on the inside of the inlet.
Depending on ambient air temp. you should read 30+ on the low(at lowest point) & around 200 on the high side(at highest point).
If the pressures are legit, jump the hi/low sensor or replace it. I found that the one on my Blazer is adjustable. It has a pressure screw on the inside of the inlet.
