Blk98ls1

iTrader: (3)

Long story short my car threw a code for insufficient switching P1153. I swapped out the O2 sensor and cleared the code with a handheld scanner. I drove the car for 80 miles and the SES light did not come back on. I took it to get a smog and it passed everything except the Malfunction indicator light test. The paper says, "This vehicle failed the MIL/Check engine light due to failure to successfully complete all OBD self tests." My damn light is not on and the car has been run for about 100 miles now without it turning back on. How long/ how many drive cycles will it take for the code to be removed from the history of the PCM? I don't want to take it to get a smog again and fail because of this. I already flushed $50 down the crapper on this failed test, would like to know for sure that the code is definitely not there anymore before I take my car to get a smog again. Any info would be greatly appreciated, thanks.

loyolacub68

iTrader: (16)

My scanner is able to check the readiness tests so I would check to see if yours can do the same. If it doesn't, drive through one whole tank worth of gas to be sure or buy a scanner that reads those tests.

HumanNipple

iTrader: (2)

this worked perfectly for me to complete a the drive cycles. Make sure you follow it exactly.

http://www.obdii.com/drivecycle.html

In addition to that just stop by one of your local parts stores like advance and check to see if you are in-fact emissions ready

Blk98ls1

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the link and for the heads up on the code scanner. I plugged it in last night and 3 of the self check were blinking. I tried to do the gm drive cycle on my way to work this morning but was limited on some parts of the cycle. Plugged my scanner in when I got to work and now only one is blinking. I'll try to do the drive cycle after work today. Thanks again for the help guys.

Jr.Samples

Let me get this straight. In Ca. if you fail your emisions you have to pay again to get it rechecked once it's fixed?

Wow. Never heard of that. Texas will only charge one time if this fails until fixed.

loyolacub68

iTrader: (16)

Depends on the shop you go to, I've never had to do that.

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

Every state is different. In IL, we don't have pay a penny for the test (as it should be).

Also in IL, you don't "fail" for having incomplete tests - you are rejected for the test and told to come back once you've driven the car more. You would only fail if you actually had an SES/MIL present. I know several other states are like this as well. In many states that do OBD scanning, you are allowed a certain amount of incomplete tests based on model year. Often times it's up to 2 incomplete tests for '96-'00, and only 1 incomplete test for '01+.

US_Army_Z28

iTrader: (3)

Wow the amount of inspection questions and issues that are coming up i hope rpm ws6 doesnt thing im bashing him. And i just posted this in another thread but here it goes again. The gm drive cycle link posted here is great but when it comes down to it theres no way to know what an exact drive cycle for your car will be ive seen cars go out and put 10 miles on a car and it come back as ready and ive had them drive 200+ miles before it gives a ready code. Unfortunately you may not be able to clear thhe dtc's with a handheld scanner. Some go in as permanent dtcs and even if the ses doesnt come on they may still be there. You generallyy need an mvci for your specific make of car and a laptop with the program to interface with the mvci to clear permanent dtc's from the vehicle.

Blk98ls1

iTrader: (3)

Ya it is what it is in CA. The shop I went to was a hole in the wall place that probably could use my extra $50. I'm not going back again, I had to get to work and I saw the shops smog bay open so I figured I'd get it tested really quick. In retrospect I should have done my homework and used my scanner to see if all of the readiness checks were done. I told the guy I drove about 80 miles and he said that it was enough, again knowing what I know now I would have waited. Oh well, chalk it up to a learning experience.

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

Why would I think that?

I can't speak for every car (GM or otherwise), but I've owned/tested every model year of LS1 F-body that was built, and I've always been able to get every test to complete following that drive cycle - usually on the first try, and definitely on the second try. Granted, there are always exceptions, but generally you'll have no problem using that method with an LS1 (unless there is some issue preventing them from running).

If you really want specifics though, you can get a copy of the factory service manual. It specifically outlines the exact parameters to run every DTC that is supported. You can then follow those parameters for every DTC within a specific system to complete the test in short order. This is how the final road test would need to be done by the tech, to make sure that the issue is resolved if you bring a car in for service due to a failed emissions test with a MIL. If they needed to drive the car around randomly for 200+ miles to get all the tests to run, customers would be waiting a VERY long time to get their cars back.

US_Army_Z28

iTrader: (3)

Well when a customer comes in and the car gives a not ready code we tell them to come bback in a day or so after driving the car. The 200+ miles statement comes from the people who wait a week or 2the before coming back and the car still isnt ready and they havve to drive it more. So no we dont ask people to sit there while we drive their car 200 miles. And maybe youve just been lucky. But i still stand by every car is diff even same make model and year ive seen them take different amount of mileage for a "drive cycle" even when going by the manufactuer reccomended drive cycle

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

I'm not referring to emissions test centers, I'm referring to a repair shop tech. If you bring the car in for a failed emissions test due to a MIL, they will follow a process to determine what part has failed to set the MIL. Once the suspect part has been replaced, they will clear the MIL and must get that DTC to run again to make sure that the MIL does not return. In the factory service manual, there are specific paramaters outlined to run a given DTC (sometimes requiring that other DTCs have already been run first), and you can follow these parameters to get the DTC to run as quickly as possibile. The tech does not have the time to drive a car around for a week/200+ miles trying to get any given DTC to run before releasing the car to the customer, so there is always a way to expedite the process, as listed in the service manual.

That OBD GM drive cycle is just a broad way of covering most of the specifics found in the service manual, and it works pretty well in most cases. But there are in fact very specific parameters that, when met, will run a DTC immediately - and these parameters can be found in the factory service manual.

US_Army_Z28

iTrader: (3)

I dont work at an emissions test center i work at a dealership as a technician and the only people who ever drive a car for a readiness code is our shop foreman and thats only if it was caused by sommething we did ie replaced a battery or updated software in the car because we simply dont get paid to drive cars they look at it as us losing money. But in this case when the art has already been replaced and the dtc is still there that leaves us with a few options first make sure everything is connected properly and if so from there go to the laptop and clear the dtc manually then run the manufactuers drive cycle which is generally always good for seing if the ses light will reappear. But when it comes to readiness codes its almost always a tossup drive cycle complete or no

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

I thought you were an inspector, as mentioned in the other thread:

Do you do inspections at your dealer? In my state, you can't get an inspection done at a dealership by a tech, you must go to a specific ILEPA/Air Team test center, so I was confused about what you were referring to.

Either way, if you replace a part due to a MIL, you're going to have to clear the MIL and then get that DTC to run again to make sure the issue is resovled. At least that's how I've done it, though I don't work for a dealer. It would take too long to let the MIL clear on it's own. Point being, if you follow the parameters to run all DTCs (which the drive cycle is a broad summary of), it will/should expedite all the readiness monitors as well. Readiness monitors set as DTCs complete, whether they pass or fail is another matter.

US_Army_Z28

iTrader: (3)

Yeah in NC dealerships and shops can be liscensed by the dmv to do inspections and then its up to the shop or dealership to send their techs to the classes to get idividually liscensed to be an inspector and thats thhe case at hendrick where i work we have 7 techs that are inspectors and 26 who arent. Reason for that being one the cost to send the techs to get certified and two because we're only given 4 inspection machines by the dmv

chaman

iTrader: (5)

Damn, I would hate to live in California. LOL!

mike171562

iTrader: (4)

In Texas I believe you get 15 days to bring it back, after that you have to pay again.

WSex

iTrader: (2)

unplug your battery and touch the positive cable to the negative the light and all stored codes will go away

US_Army_Z28

iTrader: (3)

Yeah similar here you have 30 days in nc if the car fails after that not only do you have to pay again the dmv can fine you but yeah ive given that advice about the battery in previous posts. Sometimes it works sometimes it dont but its quick and doesnt cost anything so give it a shot

Blk98ls1

iTrader: (3)

Scanner is showing that the last readiness test to be run is the "EVAP system monitor." After reading through the gm drive cycle list I did not see at which point this test actually runs, do any of you guys know off hand what the parameters are for the test to be run? I.e: 55-60mph for 3min., coasting down to 20mph, etc.?