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Car Won't Start (Intermittent)

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Old 05-16-2012, 09:34 PM
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Default Car Won't Start (Intermittent)

Starting about a week ago the starter doesn't seem to kick in when trying to start the car. I can key the car on, everything seems to come on normally (lights, radio, etc.), so I don't think it's the ignition switch, just seems that 2/3 of the time I try to start the car lately the starter won't do anything.

Maybe it seems simple, and it hasn't left me stranded anywhere (just annoyed when I have to key it on/off multiple times to leave a parking lot), but just looking for some advice. I've been thinking of everything from the starter or a loose connection to a safety switch that might not be registering the clutch pedal is engaged or something like that.

Any thoughts?
Old 05-17-2012, 05:50 PM
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Check your security. Try your second key if you have it. It sounds like that or the lock cylinder going out on you.
Old 05-17-2012, 08:17 PM
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I have the same problem I think its the key or the switch cuz the security light goes on n then have to wait till it goes off to try n start it
Old 05-18-2012, 07:57 AM
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Doesn't the security lock out keep it from starting for like 10 minutes or something? I know my brothers Malibu had that issue and the lock out lasted about 10 minutes. This I can key on/off as fast as I can go and it'll start.

This has taken a second place though, lady ran into me this morning so I'll wait on fixing the ignition
Old 05-18-2012, 08:07 AM
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Yup it takes about 5 mins
Old 05-18-2012, 01:22 PM
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I had an issue couple year ago, couldn´t crank the engine randomly.
After some investigation problem was narrowed down to the fuse/wires and fuseholder named "start". I was bad connection. Check this it is easy and doesn´t cost anything.
Old 05-18-2012, 03:33 PM
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Ok. My car's sitting at a body shop waiting for an estimate, so I'll check that but if anyone has any other ideas I'll try them out next week (hopefully).
Old 05-23-2012, 03:55 PM
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There are two wires that lead from the ignition cylinder for the VATS system, maybe they are partially broken??? My 1998 Z28 has done this a couple times to me but just a couple, hmmm.
Old 05-24-2012, 01:38 PM
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I had a similar issue. It was intermittent as well. I would insert the key and turn once to make sure the fuel pump was working. Then i would give it the full turn and the car would not start. All the light came on, everything read normal but it simply not turn over. It was like I was not pushing my clutch in. I replaced my safety switch and that didn't help.

Do you have aftermarket longtubes?

I do. They get so hot that after a while it burns up the insulation on the wires that lead to the starter. Due to the intense heat the wire becomes brittle and begins to break.

I had to disconnect the starter wires and splice them to replace the old wire with new wire.

Try going to the passenger side and wiggle the wire that leads to the starter, better yet, lift the car, wiggle the wire and try to start it again. while it is up in the air look for damaged wire.
Old 05-25-2012, 09:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Blackfly
I had a similar issue. It was intermittent as well. I would insert the key and turn once to make sure the fuel pump was working. Then i would give it the full turn and the car would not start. All the light came on, everything read normal but it simply not turn over. It was like I was not pushing my clutch in. I replaced my safety switch and that didn't help.

Do you have aftermarket longtubes?

I do. They get so hot that after a while it burns up the insulation on the wires that lead to the starter. Due to the intense heat the wire becomes brittle and begins to break.

I had to disconnect the starter wires and splice them to replace the old wire with new wire.

Try going to the passenger side and wiggle the wire that leads to the starter, better yet, lift the car, wiggle the wire and try to start it again. while it is up in the air look for damaged wire.
No aftermarket LT's, but I'll probably still check it out once I get the car back. The symptoms you talked about in the first paragraph are basically the same as what I see. Radio comes on, fuel pump kicks in, everything seems normal except the starter doesn't try to kick in. I can turn the key off and back on every second and it'll either start or not start (basically, I mean there's no "time out", it's not at all time dependent").

BTW, I might have to post pics sometime on here, but the lady that turned in front of me on my way to work caused nearly $5000 worth of damage to my car. Good thing she has insurance, and good thing my car wasn't totaled. Maybe the shop will fix my starter
Old 05-26-2012, 07:39 AM
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I had a very similar issue. Sometimes my car would start on the first crank other times it would takes 15-20 times to get it to turn over. Mine ended up being the start going out. What I usually use to test them is have someone try to turn over the car and while they're cycling the key start hitting the starter with a hammer if suddenly the starter starts turning its most likely that...

I went through everything trying to figure mine out, I check the nuetral safety switch, the relays, and vats. My security light never started flashing so i knew it wasnt that, the relays all checked out fine, and eventually i just tried tyapping the starter and that was it lol
Old 08-27-2012, 01:00 PM
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Originally Posted by 99monguse
There are two wires that lead from the ignition cylinder for the VATS system, maybe they are partially broken??? My 1998 Z28 has done this a couple times to me but just a couple, hmmm.
hello 99monguse.
where is located these ignition cylinder, is where the key barrel?
I check all the way to the Anti theft relay located under the dash on the left of steering column, and I have 12 volts on pin # 30 that will connect to pin 87 inside the Relay. Even if I have power at this point, still the wires that you are talking about can be defective or broken and the won't start?
Thanka for your help?
Old 01-30-2013, 08:15 PM
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Literally have this exact same issue... First day I owned the car I pulled the trans to replace the clutch. After 7 hours of labor, I hooked the battery back up and the car doesn't start cuz of VATS (most anticlimactic moment ever).

Anywho, I manually bypassed the VATS system, as the car has an aftermarket radio and I have no way to punch in the code to clear it. Still wouldn't start... it would just click when I turned the key and after about 20 tries it would crank up. Since the car no longer has VATS it has to be a problem with the starter/solenoid/ignition switch.

Replaced the starter and shes back up and running like new! huzzah. seems to be a somewhat common issue for F-bodies
Old 01-30-2013, 09:43 PM
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Go to the dealer and get yourself a new key.....the resistor chip in the keys wear out and they have trouble making the connection.

Seen it a bunch of times and people chase all kinds of **** first......might be that simple.

My friends 2002 Vette just had that issue. He complained of exactly the same thing, said its been happening for a month. I told him to go get one.....problem solved.

Worth a try man......you just need to give them your VIN number.

.
Old 01-31-2013, 02:21 PM
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Originally Posted by 99FormulaM6r
BTW, I might have to post pics sometime on here, but the lady that turned in front of me on my way to work caused nearly $5000 worth of damage to my car. Good thing she has insurance, and good thing my car wasn't totaled. Maybe the shop will fix my starter
Oh wow, sorry to hear that man.

Damn lady! Was she busy on the phone?
Old 01-31-2013, 05:41 PM
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my brother's zee has a problem.
it won't turn on anything until you pull the steering and while pulled even push to the left then turn on the ignition and everything is fine !
so try fighting with your steering wheel this time .. if it works
i'd go with a cylinder replacement
Old 02-01-2013, 10:47 PM
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I just started a thread on this! I'm dead in the water! Security light is on, New Key and New Optima Yellow top. car is DEAD! I jumpered starter relay to battery and starter cranks, but no fuel to injectors won't run. I'm towing car to a shop and getting VATS tuned out and whatever needs to be done to remove it all. GM should have recalled this, every LS1 owner I know has experienced probs with this.
Old 02-01-2013, 11:34 PM
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Originally Posted by RJDio
I just started a thread on this! I'm dead in the water! Security light is on, New Key and New Optima Yellow top. car is DEAD! I jumpered starter relay to battery and starter cranks, but no fuel to injectors won't run. I'm towing car to a shop and getting VATS tuned out and whatever needs to be done to remove it all. GM should have recalled this, every LS1 owner I know has experienced probs with this.
When my 1998 was 1 week old I had an alarm system installed, the guy just disabled the VATS I guess.....cause I never had an issue. Unless 1998's didn't even have VATs, I have no idea.

If its not your VATs....PCM could be dead.

.
Old 02-02-2013, 08:40 AM
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Just watched WS6Rampage's videos on Youtube, and if you have seen other vids regarding this mod - this one is specific for our cars and is the best vids out there, very straight forward. THANKS WS6Rampage!
I'm going to Radio Shack later today LOL!
Old 07-25-2016, 10:50 AM
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ok so im having the same problem and i just got it cammed and headers on and it just wouldnt start sometimes but u wait a couple minutes and it would start but now i cant even get anything to come on but my interior lights come on and i tried a new battery new starter and nothing ,,cud it be what u said my headers melting my wires ?? but would that make so my insturment cluster would be dead ??



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