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After closing headlights motor started to go crazy

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Old 06-02-2012, 05:16 PM
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Spent whole evening trying to fix this thing... In the end I probably put the motor contacts back the wrong way so now when it needs to close it opens and vice versa Also the cap of the motor fell off quickly after assembling so I need to find some better epoxy to glue it to the motor body...
sjsingle, which are rodney dickman gears?
Old 06-02-2012, 05:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Vetal
Yesterday this suddenly started - after I switch off the lights (and close headlights), right side motor starts going crazy - buzzes and hits and tries to rotate for a few seconds. Today when I pressed button on the remote to lock the car it also did this action for 3-4 seconds. What could be the problem?
Means you have to rebuild them. I have done a few in my day. It's not hard. order the kits off of ebay.
Old 06-02-2012, 05:57 PM
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do a google search for rodney dickman brass gears and you will find it
Old 06-03-2012, 05:33 AM
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OK found them...
Yes it's not hard but time consuming, trying to get those tiny springs and rotor back...
I just don't know what to use to glue the cap back, the adhesive I used didn't hold at all
Old 06-03-2012, 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Vetal
I just cannot understand how the hell can you design electrical system in such a way that when gears on one of the motors go bad, it starts flipping headlights every possible moment...
If you had seen cars with flip-up headlight doors in the 70's, you would understand. They would easily fall out of adjustment and you'd get one light "winking" and not shut all the way.

It looks to me that our cars energize the doors at various points (locking the car, turning lights on, etc.) to make sure they are shut all the way. This obviously stresses the motor and gears when they are in the fully shut position and the motor is pressing them down more.

If you dig in to all the threads on this, you'll see that the problem isn't so much bad gears, but the motor separating from the gearbox. This puts the stress on the outer edges of the gear teeth, where they are weaker.


Originally Posted by Vetal
I just don't know what to use to glue the cap back, the adhesive I used didn't hold at all
Before getting in to metal gears, I'd suggest reading this thread. I'll also echo that the Dickman gears are probably a better choice. (I got the other type.) https://ls1tech.com/forums/stereo-el...ght-doors.html
Old 06-03-2012, 03:03 PM
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Just so the OP knows the brass gear can still get stripped. A couple months after I installed the brass gear in my drivers side headlight, it got chewed away also.
-Joel
Old 06-03-2012, 07:31 PM
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my brass gears have been goin 2+ yrs
Old 06-05-2012, 11:07 AM
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The easiest solution is to pull the 2 headlight door fuses under the hood and just use the fog lights. I've been doing that for 2 years.
Old 06-05-2012, 11:09 AM
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yeah but a) I don't have foglights since I went turbo b) I have to pass inspection right now )
Anyway at his moment they work OK, found position of gear when they are OK. And I'll be ordering new gears soon.
Old 06-05-2012, 12:32 PM
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Hey Vetal, check your PM, sent you a link to a company
Old 06-05-2012, 04:22 PM
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Hey to the "neighbour"! Thanks for that
Old 06-06-2012, 12:30 PM
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my gear house broke open, the headlight is not closing all the way, so the car will try to move the healights as much as possible to try to close all the way. i fixed mine and they stopped. temp fix to stop damage is to put lights up and yank fuses leaving them permanently up until you fix it!
Old 06-07-2012, 01:30 AM
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P.S. I also had to put a steel tab in the back to press cap against the motor body. I hope the cap is still there )



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