its time for an oil change, need experts opinion
07-18-2012, 07:12 PM
#23
My 427ci has had its *** kicked every single day for 10+ years..........probably seen 1000 top end highway runs in 10 years. 2-3 per week, every week.
Engine looks brand new inside.......brand new. All bearings are perfect. Zero sludge or dirt.
An engine flush at every oil change works.........It cost me $4.00 and an extra 5 minutes. My oil changes are so cheap because I don't throw money in the garbage on synthetic oil.....so I'm ahead of the game in money spent. I've been buying the $14.00 5 qrt oil change deal INCLUDING Purolator filter from both PepBoys and Advance Auto for 10+ years.
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07-18-2012, 07:23 PM
#24
Ive always run mobil1 5w30 with mobil1 filter. Car has cam springs rods. Never had an issue and always holds good pressure. My buddy had a cammed ls2 gto and ran 0w40. Loved it. No scientific reasoning or anything for these choices, just experience. My 2 cents.
07-18-2012, 08:40 PM
#25
My engine is a fully built 427ci that was supposed to need a rebuild after 40,000, according to the builder. Not very lightly modded. Stock bottom/stock cubed N/A engines should last 300,000 if taken care of.
My 427ci has had its *** kicked every single day for 10+ years..........probably seen 1000 top end highway runs in 10 years. 2-3 per week, every week.
Engine looks brand new inside.......brand new. All bearings are perfect. Zero sludge or dirt.
An engine flush at every oil change works.........It cost me $4.00 and an extra 5 minutes. My oil changes are so cheap because I don't throw money in the garbage on synthetic oil.....so I'm ahead of the game in money spent. I've been buying the $14.00 5 qrt oil change deal INCLUDING Purolator filter from both PepBoys and Advance Auto for 10+ years.
.
My 427ci has had its *** kicked every single day for 10+ years..........probably seen 1000 top end highway runs in 10 years. 2-3 per week, every week.
Engine looks brand new inside.......brand new. All bearings are perfect. Zero sludge or dirt.
An engine flush at every oil change works.........It cost me $4.00 and an extra 5 minutes. My oil changes are so cheap because I don't throw money in the garbage on synthetic oil.....so I'm ahead of the game in money spent. I've been buying the $14.00 5 qrt oil change deal INCLUDING Purolator filter from both PepBoys and Advance Auto for 10+ years.
.
Me Mobil1 every 10,000 miles $26 for oil and $4 for a filter = $30. My way is much cheaper, You actually spend $24 more than me. You do 9,000 miles and I do 10,000 miles I still think I come out on the Better End. Mobil1 is Not junk my car has 308,000 miles on it and runs Great. Oh yes I get an Extra 1,000 miles.
07-18-2012, 11:05 PM
#26
I hear ya but ..........Your spending $14 for oil and filter + $4 for flush every 3,000 miles compared to my 10,000 that is 3 of your changes...$18 x 3 =$54 for 9,000 miles.
Me Mobil1 every 10,000 miles $26 for oil and $4 for a filter = $30. My way is much cheaper, You actually spend $24 more than me. You do 9,000 miles and I do 10,000 miles I still think I come out on the Better End. Mobil1 is Not junk my car has 308,000 miles on it and runs Great. Oh yes I get an Extra 1,000 miles.
Me Mobil1 every 10,000 miles $26 for oil and $4 for a filter = $30. My way is much cheaper, You actually spend $24 more than me. You do 9,000 miles and I do 10,000 miles I still think I come out on the Better End. Mobil1 is Not junk my car has 308,000 miles on it and runs Great. Oh yes I get an Extra 1,000 miles.
.
07-21-2012, 08:47 AM
#29
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I always run Amsoil 5W30 Signature Series with Amsoil EA filter, oil looks amazing after 4000 miles, mobil1 never held up this well for me....amsoil for life.
07-21-2012, 05:39 PM
#30
I'm not sure about most recent testing, but Castrol's 0w30 consistently comes up as the best all around oil.
a) its a 0w which in cold temps flows better than 5w or 10w and definitely better than a 20w
b) it's 30w oil is 13.9 cs which is border 40wt
c) @ 212 C it barely budges from that 13~ retaining a 30wt quality and lubricating your LS motor probably better than all those other brands (especially mobil 1) which actually thinned to a 20wt rating @ 212C, not sure of today's formulas, but its 5w and 30w synthetic dropping to a 20wt caused me to burn through 1 qt per 600 miles meaning after 1000 I was pretty much on the low oil sensor.
It's price is reasonable and many members have run oil analysis on this oil with consistent results saying run as much as 5k to 7k miles or more depending on how you drive it.
a) its a 0w which in cold temps flows better than 5w or 10w and definitely better than a 20w
b) it's 30w oil is 13.9 cs which is border 40wt
c) @ 212 C it barely budges from that 13~ retaining a 30wt quality and lubricating your LS motor probably better than all those other brands (especially mobil 1) which actually thinned to a 20wt rating @ 212C, not sure of today's formulas, but its 5w and 30w synthetic dropping to a 20wt caused me to burn through 1 qt per 600 miles meaning after 1000 I was pretty much on the low oil sensor.
It's price is reasonable and many members have run oil analysis on this oil with consistent results saying run as much as 5k to 7k miles or more depending on how you drive it.
07-21-2012, 07:26 PM
#31
[QUOTE=SladeX;16542173]I'm not sure about most recent testing, but Castrol's 0w30 consistently comes up as the best all around oil.
a) its a 0w which in cold temps flows better than 5w or 10w and definitely better than a 20w
b) it's 30w oil is 13.9 cs which is border 40wt
c) @ 212 C it barely budges from that 13~ retaining a 30wt quality and lubricating your LS motor probably better than all those other brands (especially mobil 1) which actually thinned to a 20wt rating @ 212C, not sure of today's formulas, but its 5w and 30w synthetic dropping to a 20wt caused me to burn through 1 qt per 600 miles meaning after 1000 I was pretty much on the low oil sensor.
If you burned a quart of oil in 600 miles it had NOTHING to do with the oil, just think about it.
a) its a 0w which in cold temps flows better than 5w or 10w and definitely better than a 20w
b) it's 30w oil is 13.9 cs which is border 40wt
c) @ 212 C it barely budges from that 13~ retaining a 30wt quality and lubricating your LS motor probably better than all those other brands (especially mobil 1) which actually thinned to a 20wt rating @ 212C, not sure of today's formulas, but its 5w and 30w synthetic dropping to a 20wt caused me to burn through 1 qt per 600 miles meaning after 1000 I was pretty much on the low oil sensor.
If you burned a quart of oil in 600 miles it had NOTHING to do with the oil, just think about it.
07-21-2012, 08:22 PM
#32
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I must say I am a little curious as to when the crowd swayed away from the 0/5w-30. last time i was looking at oil on here (roughly mid 2005) there was a guy who was doing oil analyses every time he changed his oil. he and others who did the same always ended up going back to the Castrol. Course back then there was also problem of Castrol switching from a German based formula to something else which produced worse results. There were people going out buying the stuff by the boxful when they found it.
This is actual the first time i've ever seen anything over a 10w recommended. Guess the times they are a changin'.
This is actual the first time i've ever seen anything over a 10w recommended. Guess the times they are a changin'.
07-21-2012, 08:24 PM
#33
Actually it did, when I switched over to Castrol Syntec 0w30, my oil consumption issues disappeared. Mobil 1 was just too thin, it was slipping past the rings on acceleration.
Think about that. I drove 6k b/w oil changes, did oil analysis on the castrol for at least 6 oil changes after that and was told each time that 6k changes wasn't showing much degradation and could possibly pull 8k b/w changes. I haven't seen a low oil sensor light since 2005 and my change over to Castrol 0w30.
On another note, I drove it another 150k miles before finally spinning a bearing due to 7k rpm revving. I had a 98 LS1 with stock rod bolts and heads, cam, exhaust which was wanting 6k+ but the bottom end could not handle.
Think about that. I drove 6k b/w oil changes, did oil analysis on the castrol for at least 6 oil changes after that and was told each time that 6k changes wasn't showing much degradation and could possibly pull 8k b/w changes. I haven't seen a low oil sensor light since 2005 and my change over to Castrol 0w30.
On another note, I drove it another 150k miles before finally spinning a bearing due to 7k rpm revving. I had a 98 LS1 with stock rod bolts and heads, cam, exhaust which was wanting 6k+ but the bottom end could not handle.
07-21-2012, 09:22 PM
#34
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Just remembered the guys name. it was Patman. Too bad he's not around as much and still doing the oil analyses. it was some good info to have around on the forums.
07-21-2012, 11:20 PM
#36
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LS6427, I do think that 20w50 is the right oil for you, but for a car with a stock bottom end I think that a thinner oil is better. GM is building motors with tighter bearing clearances than a race motor is built to.
07-22-2012, 06:00 AM
#37
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Do some Amsoil analysis search, people running it for 10-15k miles, and blowing mobil1 away, I read a few articles that M1 isnt even a true synthetic anymore, amsoil, redline, castrol 0w30 is l id advise running. Results dont lie, mobile 1 "used" to be good oil. And just stick with 5w30
07-22-2012, 07:02 AM
#38
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Rule of thumb has been: it is ok to go up in viscocity but never down, you can run a 10w40, I would reccomend you run AMSOIL AMO 10w40 it has around 1300 PPM of zinc and phos, so it will keep your internals free from friction which drops internal temps, and being a 10w40 it will flow better and stay cooler than the 20w50.
I do oils for a living,,, so take it for what is worth
I do oils for a living,,, so take it for what is worth
