djfury05

iTrader: (30)

Ever since I swapped everything into this new roller and got it up running the ebrake light won't seem to go off.

Before you say its the switch yes I have pulled the console and cleaned and checked the ebrake switch a few times now and it operates as it should. When the ebrake lever is all the way down, the circuit becomes open, when the ebrake is pulled up the circuit is closed and complete like normal. I even checked the voltage open and closed circuit and all is fine like it should be.

Any other ideas?

Only thing I can think of was that this was an A4 harness converted to M6 but I don't think we had to do anything with the ebrake light since its just the one light blue wire. We did have to splice in a few wires next to it though.

I can just pull the gauge cluster and cover the bulb but I'd like to figure out why it is doing this instead.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

That light serves two purposes:
1) It tells you when your parking brake is on.
2) It tells you when there is a failure in the hydraulic braking system.

Are your regular brakes feeling OK? Is your brake booster working?

djfury05

iTrader: (30)

I did delete ABS does that have something to do with it? Brakes are fine. I ran all 4 new lines and have stainless braided lines to the calipers now. Line lock and prop valve. I'm guessing deleting ABS did this?

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

The ABS system would give you a special ABS light if it had issues. Maybe the prop valve is changing the regular hydraulic system to the point the car thinks there is an issue?

Did you do all this with the transmission swap?

djfury05

iTrader: (30)

I swapped a new motor, new trans, new rear end, new full suspension, a4 harness converted to m6 harness all at the same time lol.

I have already pulled the cluster and covered the ABS bulbs.

I am not even sure how biased the brakes are concerning front to rear ratio. I just turned the **** til I thought it was good and its been fine so far.

Yotehuntr

Another thing it could be is a short to voltage on the ground side of the switch, check for available voltage on both sides of the switch, with the switch open. Also it Could be the light itself. If it never goes out, it could have a short to power.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

Yea, this isn't a parking brake switch issue.

I'd suggest you re-post the problem in the Suspension and Brakes section and tell the story about all the stuff you swapped, detail your new prop valve, and ask for ideas there.