1994_383_Z28

iTrader: (1)

So yesterday I go to put up my windows and the driver went up fine, but the passenger didnt move. Not a sound. I just replaced the passenger window motor like 5-6 weeks ago. So I figured it might be the switch. I tried 2 different passenger side switches, and neither of them worked.

I thought that maybe the motor connection came loose, or I didn't plug it in fully. So I just pulled the door panel, unplugged the motor, plugged it back in, and still nothing. I also tried plugging in 2 different motors just to see if the motor that I just put it died. None of them worked.

I am out of ideas. Is there a fuse, or a relay that only affects the passenger side?

Thank you.

*JC*

Have you checked the driver's side connection? If I recall correctly the power goes to the driver side controls first and then over to the passenger door.

1994_383_Z28

iTrader: (1)

Yes I have. I also checked the wiring and it is reading 12volts. I'm out of ideas.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

If you have 12V at the motor connector its just a dud motor. What brand did you put in?

This is a common failure of the cutoff circuitry in the motor. When the motor is out of the car, it runs fine. When its in the car and is carrying the load/weight of the window, it will cut out and not work.

It's also possible that the mechanism is binding or you have a broken track somewhere, etc. - but its really common for this to happen when using a reman motor.

1994_383_Z28

iTrader: (1)

It was 12v at the wiring connector that plugs into the switch. It read the same for the driver side switches, and the passenger switch. No motor I plug in works though. I don't get it. Even when the motor is not in the car. Just plugged in.

1994_383_Z28

iTrader: (1)

Also, I'm not sure what brand the new motors are, but I got them from ws6store. So it's whatever they sell.

*JC*

I agree with WSSIX99, it has to be the motor... I know you said you tried 3 other motors and none of them worked... But did you also plug those same motors up to the drivers side to see if they functioned?

1994_383_Z28

iTrader: (1)

I actually tried 2 other motors, plus the one in the car, for a total of 3.

And no, I didn't try those motors on the drivers side. I don't understand what difference it would make. Why would the same motor work on the drivers side, and not the passenger?

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

W6Store doesn't sell the new design Dorman motors. Those are what you want in order to lessen your grief overall. Any local parts store sells them.

You need to measure the power at the motor connector. If you see 12 volts there, that will confirm the status of the motor. Again, its common for these motors to look "good" when they are out of the car and then have them crap out when you put actual weight on them.

1994_383_Z28

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the info on the dorman motors.

But what I still don't understand is why no motor I plug in will do anything. This makes me think it's not the motor at all. I just unplugged the motor that is in the car, and plugged in 2 new motors, without putting them in the car, and they don't make a sound. It's as if nothing is plugged in. I don't understand.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

You need to trace the power - it could be a switch or wiring.

First measure voltage at the motor connector. If its good then the problem is at the motor or in the door. If its bad, then check at the passenger switch and then the driver's switch.

bp m1009

iTrader: (2)

sounds like your not getting power to the motor, but you do have power at the switch. which means that somewhere between the switch and the motor is the problem

1994_383_Z28

iTrader: (1)

Exactly. I'm just not sure where to go from here.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

Have you actually measured the power at the motor connector? If not, you can't say that the motor isn't getting power.

If you test at the motor connector and there is no power, the issue should be easy to find. The passenger motor wires go directly to the switch in the passenger door. (The driver side is different and much more complex.)

got-a-ls1

iTrader: (12)

helped a buddy change his window motor and it was full of water. drained it and tested both the door wiring and the motor. motor worked bench tested after we drained the water out. had to rip the motor out to get the window up to go to the track haha

bp m1009

iTrader: (2)

take the connector for the passenger motor off and check for voltage there. if there is none there then trace the wires back to the switch (im assuming power goes to the switch then to the motor) if there is power at the switch then there is something wrong in between the switch and motor, then check resistance in the wires from switch to motor if it is high then the wiring is the problem. i could be wrong because ive never done this on a 4th gen so im guessing how the wiring is laid out

1994_383_Z28

iTrader: (1)

Just in case anyone ever encounters a similar problem, it ended up being that the motor was completely dead, and the driver side switch was broken. So when I tried new motors, they didn't work, and with the dead motor (which I believed to be functional, since it is only like 6 weeks old) I tried new switches, and that didn't work. Well today I happened to try them both and now my problem is solved.

FiredUpZ28

Just because you have 12v dont mean much. Still could have a half pulled out wire. Get a decent load test light and see if you get it to light up at the motor connection.

P.S. just saw you figured it out, good stuff.

AlamoTA

iTrader: (10)

Your drivers switch was probably pasing 12V, but not enough amps, which would explain why you would read 12v, but no-go on the motor. Just like FiredUp stated, 12v dont mean much. You gotta have the amps to move the motors. Always back up a voltage test with a load test. Glad you found your problem, but wanted to comment for others.