Installing another 10 bolt... Difficult?
10-17-2012, 04:02 PM
#1
Installing another 10 bolt... Difficult? Hey everyone,
I'm picking up a used 10 bolt, (from an auto), with 55k miles and it will be replacing my 10 bolt with 122k miles.
Is this something I can do with pretty basic hand tools?
I also have a friend who works at a dealership who can do the labor for extremely cheap after hours.
I'm getting it for $100 and picking it up this saturday
Thoughts? Recommendations? Or know of any write-ups?
I'm picking up a used 10 bolt, (from an auto), with 55k miles and it will be replacing my 10 bolt with 122k miles.
Is this something I can do with pretty basic hand tools?
I also have a friend who works at a dealership who can do the labor for extremely cheap after hours.
I'm getting it for $100 and picking it up this saturday
Thoughts? Recommendations? Or know of any write-ups?
10-17-2012, 04:26 PM
#2
since yours is a 99,what year is the replacement from ?
concern would be 3 channel / 4 channel compatability,there again you didn't state what yours is and what the replacement came from.
concern would gear ratio change,no info !
concern would be 3 channel / 4 channel compatability,there again you didn't state what yours is and what the replacement came from.
concern would gear ratio change,no info !
Last edited by FirstYrLS1Z; 10-17-2012 at 04:32 PM.
10-17-2012, 07:41 PM
#7
No adjustment needed, unless you have aftermarket suspension parts.
You will need to bleed the rear brakes when you're done, unless you leave the calipers and brake lines with the car. Other than that, straight bolt in deal. I'd also recommend doing a fluid change on the replacement rear end, so you know it's fresh and full.
You will need to bleed the rear brakes when you're done, unless you leave the calipers and brake lines with the car. Other than that, straight bolt in deal. I'd also recommend doing a fluid change on the replacement rear end, so you know it's fresh and full.
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10-17-2012, 07:48 PM
#8
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Remove the calipers and hang them with a zip tie. Only remove what you need to to make it easy on yourself. It is very easy to do with hand tools. I agree that you should replace the diff fluid and be sure to add a bottle of friction modifier.
10-17-2012, 08:26 PM
#9
When you disconnect driveshaft from rearend,try to keep the caps on the u-joint to keep from losing any of its' needle bearings.
I lost/a needle fell out(didn't know one fell out) in May of 2011,found a needle bearing on garage floor after everything was back together(tranny replacement). Put it in the cars ashtray and put it back in a year later for a rearend swapout. No problems occurred during that time.
I lost/a needle fell out(didn't know one fell out) in May of 2011,found a needle bearing on garage floor after everything was back together(tranny replacement). Put it in the cars ashtray and put it back in a year later for a rearend swapout. No problems occurred during that time.
10-17-2012, 09:42 PM
#10
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A thing I always do(dont know if it necessary), I always remove the DS with the counter weight up so whe I reinstall it I dont change the counterweight location just incase its matched to transmission.
10-18-2012, 05:20 PM
#11
I'm pretty excited to give this a try. I'm going to be getting a whole new TA performance cover with all new bolts for the rear along with new fluid.
That way it'll be slightly stronger
and yes new fluid.
Is there any gaskets/seals besides the one that comes with the TA performance cover that I would need to change out?
That way it'll be slightly stronger
and yes new fluid.Is there any gaskets/seals besides the one that comes with the TA performance cover that I would need to change out?
