Anyone replace their 98-02 F-body heater hoses?
#1
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A couple years ago I developed a leak on one of the heater hoses where it connects to the block. We trimmed the end and re-clamped it. Today I notice the coolant smell again and notice a fine spray from a bend in an L-shaped tube in this pair of hoses onto the #6 primary. I was proactive two years ago and have new OEM heater hose pipes in storage.
Unless I'm imagining things, this doesn't seem like an easy swap. Any tips?
Unless I'm imagining things, this doesn't seem like an easy swap. Any tips?
#2
TECH Senior Member
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Yes, I have done this some years ago...
drain coolant from lower radiator hose;
remove the hose ends from the heater core tubes (cable hose clamp pliers are very handy for this) and from the water pump;
undo the bolt holding the hose/pipe bracket to the side of the wheel well;
being careful not to snag/pull on the wire harness going down the side of the wheel well, twist and rotate the pipe/hose assy as best you can... and eventually cut the pipes in the middle (dikes), and then it all comes out easy;
[ some of these may also help to make more room (I don't quite remember which ones):
- unplug the PCM connectors, unclip the harness and move it aside aside,
- remove the AIR tube,
- remove a few spark plug wires;
]
then snake/twist the new assy in, be patient, take your time, don't snag the harness (on side of wheel well);
then install the bracket bolt, install hose ends and clamps onto heater core;
then add coolant to block, radiator and heater core (I had the heater hoses off, I used an extension hose and funnel to gravity pour coolant into the heater hose until it came out the return hose)(I added coolant to the block via the upper radiator hose);
while filling block/radiator let the air bleed out at the steam crossover tube, and continue to bleed air out with engine running (a clear extension tube on the steam crossover tube will let you see the air bleeding out)..
let engine reach operating temp, verify thermostat opens, and that you get hot air from HVAC (no hot air means heater core has an air bubble, rev engine a few times to dislodge it), keep an eye on coolant temperature to avoid overheating (letting air bleed out at the steam crossover is the key here), keep adding coolant to radiator.
drain coolant from lower radiator hose;
remove the hose ends from the heater core tubes (cable hose clamp pliers are very handy for this) and from the water pump;
undo the bolt holding the hose/pipe bracket to the side of the wheel well;
being careful not to snag/pull on the wire harness going down the side of the wheel well, twist and rotate the pipe/hose assy as best you can... and eventually cut the pipes in the middle (dikes), and then it all comes out easy;
[ some of these may also help to make more room (I don't quite remember which ones):
- unplug the PCM connectors, unclip the harness and move it aside aside,
- remove the AIR tube,
- remove a few spark plug wires;
]
then snake/twist the new assy in, be patient, take your time, don't snag the harness (on side of wheel well);
then install the bracket bolt, install hose ends and clamps onto heater core;
then add coolant to block, radiator and heater core (I had the heater hoses off, I used an extension hose and funnel to gravity pour coolant into the heater hose until it came out the return hose)(I added coolant to the block via the upper radiator hose);
while filling block/radiator let the air bleed out at the steam crossover tube, and continue to bleed air out with engine running (a clear extension tube on the steam crossover tube will let you see the air bleeding out)..
let engine reach operating temp, verify thermostat opens, and that you get hot air from HVAC (no hot air means heater core has an air bubble, rev engine a few times to dislodge it), keep an eye on coolant temperature to avoid overheating (letting air bleed out at the steam crossover is the key here), keep adding coolant to radiator.
#3
Banned
iTrader: (2)
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My hoses started looking bad and soft after 13 years. Instead of wrestling with taking them off and putting a new heater hose assembly on......I simply went and bought 4 feet of 5/8" heater hose and 4 feet of 3/8" heater hose.
Took the factory clamps off the heater core ports and off the water pump ports.
Connected my new hoses using new clamps and I was done.
Took about 15 minutes. I just used a razor knife to cut as much as the old hoses off as close the metal lines as possible and left it there.
Connect both hoses to the heater core ports....then with your coolant or water hose fill the line until coolant or the water runs out the other hose....this means the heater core is filled with coolant. It will help you later when bleeding the system.
Then connect the hoses to the water pump ports.
Now that my engine is out Im using a dremel to cut away the Factiry crimped clamps on the metal lines and putting new heater hoses on. It'll be like new.
.
Took the factory clamps off the heater core ports and off the water pump ports.
Connected my new hoses using new clamps and I was done.
Took about 15 minutes. I just used a razor knife to cut as much as the old hoses off as close the metal lines as possible and left it there.
Connect both hoses to the heater core ports....then with your coolant or water hose fill the line until coolant or the water runs out the other hose....this means the heater core is filled with coolant. It will help you later when bleeding the system.
Then connect the hoses to the water pump ports.
Now that my engine is out Im using a dremel to cut away the Factiry crimped clamps on the metal lines and putting new heater hoses on. It'll be like new.
.
Last edited by LS6427; 11-13-2012 at 08:55 PM.