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Old Nov 17, 2012 | 05:24 PM
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Default Express Down not working

I need a little help with a problem I am having with the driver's window. The express down stopped working and I figured the express down module wasn't working. I got a used one from someone on here and switched it out and it didn't make any difference.

I did notice that actually both of these modules make a click if I start rolling down the window and then release the switch. They also seem to make a noise when I roll up the window and then release the switch.

Does it sound like both the modules or bad, or is it that they are both actually working and something else is preventing the express down from functioning? Is there a way to test the module?

Thanks.
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Old Nov 17, 2012 | 08:20 PM
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IDK about the power windows as my car has the manual windows but is the module part of the switch on the door itself that you us to have the windows come up and down? If not, have you looked into that part?
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Old Nov 18, 2012 | 09:17 AM
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Originally Posted by 9WhiteCamaro9
IDK about the power windows as my car has the manual windows but is the module part of the switch on the door itself that you us to have the windows come up and down? If not, have you looked into that part?
The module is separate from the switch. It is on the firewall above the gas pedal.

I saw an old post where someone said the switch in the door is just 3 position, and if it operates the window it should be fine. Is that true? I thought I had an extra window switch laying around which I would have switched out to see if it helped, but I couldn't find it.
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Old Nov 18, 2012 | 10:02 AM
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Originally Posted by HAZ-Matt
I did notice that actually both of these modules make a click if I start rolling down the window and then release the switch.
This is the module working and the click you hear is the express down relay kicking in.

Originally Posted by HAZ-Matt
I saw an old post where someone said the switch in the door is just 3 position, and if it operates the window it should be fine. Is that true?
Yes, this is true.

How long have you had this car? Has the express down ever worked? Are you sure the motor isn't going bad?

One other thing to try - Let off the switch very slowly and deliberately and see what happens. (Instead of moving your finger away quickly and letting the switch spring back in to position.)
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Old Nov 18, 2012 | 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by wssix99
This is the module working and the click you hear is the express down relay kicking in.

Yes, this is true.

How long have you had this car? Has the express down ever worked? Are you sure the motor isn't going bad?

One other thing to try - Let off the switch very slowly and deliberately and see what happens. (Instead of moving your finger away quickly and letting the switch spring back in to position.)
I have had this car for nearly 6 years now. Express down worked until a little over a week ago. I have replaced the window motor in the driver's side about 3.5yr ago I think it was.

With this car and my last one (a 2000 V6 I got new) I have replaced 3 window motors myself, not including the 2 the V6 had done under warranty. In all those instances, the window would stop and start, usually worse trying to roll it up. This window seems to work fine if I just hold the button.
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Old Nov 18, 2012 | 12:22 PM
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I'm wondering if the switch is making a brief "up" contact when you release the down switch, which might be canceling out the express down function. Modulating the switch carefully might confirm this.
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Old Nov 18, 2012 | 01:01 PM
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Originally Posted by wssix99
I'm wondering if the switch is making a brief "up" contact when you release the down switch, which might be canceling out the express down function. Modulating the switch carefully might confirm this.
I tried releasing the switch slowly. It seemed like most of the time I would hear the click right before the window stopped going down.

Occasionally it would make the other sort of noise that it makes when I am rolling up the window and let off the switch.

I wish I knew what happened to my extra switch, I could just plug it in and see if that made a difference.
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Old Nov 18, 2012 | 01:41 PM
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There's nothing special about the switches. You should be able to use either of the passenger side switches for your test. (I recall the connector should fit. Just slide it over so it only plugs in to the passenger side.)
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Old Nov 18, 2012 | 02:21 PM
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Originally Posted by wssix99
There's nothing special about the switches. You should be able to use either of the passenger side switches for your test. (I recall the connector should fit. Just slide it over so it only plugs in to the passenger side.)
No the pins are mirror images of each other. I don't know if I flipped it if it would work.

It also seems like the driver side switch actually rocks slightly farther when you press it. I don't know if that is just something they did to make it easier to activate express down.
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Old Nov 18, 2012 | 02:42 PM
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If you remove the electrical tape from the connector, you can open it and remove each wire from the connector body. You can then move the wires around and hook them up to another switch.

IF YOU DO THIS - I highly recommend that you thoroughly document where the wires were when you open the connector. They are a bit of a PITA to figure out after the fact.
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Old Nov 21, 2012 | 04:35 PM
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Bump.

Well it turns out that the switch was the culprit.

The theory that it was making "up" contact on release might have been correct.
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