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2000 Trans Am LS1 Idler pulley replacement.

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Old 12-27-2012, 06:34 PM
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Default 2000 Trans Am LS1 Idler pulley replacement.

Hi all,

Time to replace both pulleys. There has been a noise there, but now it is louder and stays longer.

1. Are both pulley same identical?

2. Are there Billet aluminum pulleys I can use?

I saw this, <non sponsor link deleted> not sure if they can be used for this.

Thank you!

Last edited by wssix99; 12-28-2012 at 11:37 AM.
Old 12-27-2012, 09:17 PM
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which pulley? main........by the throttle body......secondary.....by alt.......2 a/c pulleys....both the same size
Old 12-28-2012, 12:32 AM
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Originally Posted by sjsingle1
which pulley? main........by the throttle body......secondary.....by alt.......2 a/c pulleys....both the same size
I haven't really bothered to look. I always thought there were only 2 that fail.
Old 12-28-2012, 12:38 AM
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total of 4 pulleys and 2 belts on f bods
Old 12-28-2012, 12:59 AM
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Originally Posted by sjsingle1
total of 4 pulleys and 2 belts on f bods
I know, but which are the ones that always fail with the bearing?

I just found this video.
Old 12-28-2012, 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by 1batt4u
Hi all,

Time to replace both pulleys. There has been a noise there, but now it is louder and stays longer.

1. Are both pulley same identical?

2. Are there Billet aluminum pulleys I can use?

I saw this, <non sponsor link deleted> not sure if they can be used for this.

Thank you!

That part you posted is outrageous. Why would you want a billet pulley? Is this a show car? Using a billet part here, won't make the bearing inside it last any longer....

1) Please be aware of the forum rules and refrain from posting non-sponsor links or advertisements.
2) Goodyear makes good main belt replacement pulleys and they have a cross-reference on their website. Or, you can re-pack the ones you have: https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...r-pulleys.html
3) Dayco makes a pulley that will replace the A/C idler pulleys: https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...need-help.html
4) Your squeak is not necessarily an idler pulley. I just had a bearing on my alternator fail and is now squealing like crazy. (The supplier of this "all new" unit is about to have some words with me...) Anyway - you can localize the problem using a long metal rod and touching it to the rotating part and your ear at the same time. (Or you can get a mechanic's stethoscope.) If you touch it to your pump/alternator bodies or the center bolt of your idler pulleys, the sound will be amplified through the rod to your ear and you'll quickly be able to tell which part is the problem.

DISCLAIMER - This is not the easiest thing to do and you'll need to be careful. If the rod gets caught up in a moving belt system, the thing can take your head off.
Old 12-20-2014, 08:55 AM
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Sorry to bring out old thread. But Im trying to install the idler pulley that I just bought from AC delco. Does the pulley need to spin when I tightened it?
Apparently, It's not spinning or hard to spin when I tighten it to 37 lbs.
The pulley doesn't come with any spacer. I used my dust plate on the front but does it need to have a spacer at the back? If it does, What size?
Old 12-20-2014, 11:17 AM
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Fyi, there are two different alternator brackets. I do not know when it was changed, but there was a TSB on it at some point. The old one causes misalignment of the idler with the crack pulley, if Im not mistaken. Any pulley you buy at autozone or o'reillys fits the new style, and will not cure the squeak on an old style bracket. You can however order the old style pulley directly from gm.

I found this out after about a month of frustration...

So I changed my bracket and pulley to the revised ones, and ran into the same issue you did. Pulley contacting bracket. I just put a washer behind it. It still makes noise occasionally, but not nearly as often. I'm thinking my belt got stretched so I'm planning on buying a Goodyear gatorback to replace it. For the time being, I put a little baby powder on the belt when it squeaks. That stops it for at least a couple weeks. A band aid, yes, but it's not embarrassing, nor does it allow your sanity to be compromised.

Check the p/n on your bracket.
12556916 is the old style bracket. 12564401 is old style pulley.
12563327 is the new style bracket. 12563326 is new style pulley.

Let us know how you fix it.
Old 12-20-2014, 04:59 PM
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Originally Posted by wssix99
That part you posted is outrageous. Why would you want a billet pulley? Is this a show car? Using a billet part here, won't make the bearing inside it last any longer....
That made me chuckle!

I run a custom made billet high wall idler pulley. Right after I commissioned a machinist to make a few on a trial run, someone started mass producing them by CNC. Don't recall who it was but Im sure they are still available. I also have a billet PS pulley! Nope, still not a show car
Old 12-20-2014, 07:05 PM
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lol @ the billet pulleys, they look good from under the car lol and barely visible then
Old 12-21-2014, 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by laurentj23
Does the pulley need to spin when I tightened it?
Yes, usually when this happens, the dust plates or other spacers are not installed correctly. You should be able to play with it and find out where the binding is.

If it spins off the car, it should spin on.
Old 12-21-2014, 12:04 PM
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Originally Posted by compton-z28
lol @ the billet pulleys, they look good from under the car lol and barely visible then
Do wut? There sure are some odd opinions of pulleys in this thread

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Old 12-21-2014, 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by 01ssreda4
Do wut? There sure are some odd opinions of pulleys in this thread


Which company's lid is that, and do they make it in the standard/stock MAF and intake bellows size??
Old 12-21-2014, 06:40 PM
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That is Fast Toys 104, they also make a 98.
Old 12-22-2014, 06:55 PM
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THANKS!



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