P0102
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From: Moore, Oklahoma
P0102 Im kinda stuck and my Chilton manual doesnt really help.
It all started when winter slowly rolled in to the great state of Oklahoma lol.
It was a tad chilly out about 43*F. Went to go to class and as i started her she went up to about 2k then dropped to an extreamly rough idle and dies. so threw trail and error i unplugged the MAF and now she starts just fine. fast forward to this morning. I bought an SLP air lid from a guy on here and he also gave me the MAF that was connected to it. So i assembled as normal with my K&N filter. started up just fine once i got it all installed... sorry for jumping around. SO i finnally had the codes ran and i am throwing a P0102. the car was throwing the same code for both MAF's. My conector looks fine and i dont see any damage, what do you guys think? tomorrow i can make a video.
After the first initial run and i shut the car off i can plug it in and she will start fine, and after my 6 hour shift at work sitting in 32*f weather she starts fine as well. Its almost like a morning temper tantrum lol
MODS: Cut the CATS, Magnaflow Exhaust, 2" drop with Eibach Springs, Koni shocks, Free Ram Air Mod.
It all started when winter slowly rolled in to the great state of Oklahoma lol.
It was a tad chilly out about 43*F. Went to go to class and as i started her she went up to about 2k then dropped to an extreamly rough idle and dies. so threw trail and error i unplugged the MAF and now she starts just fine. fast forward to this morning. I bought an SLP air lid from a guy on here and he also gave me the MAF that was connected to it. So i assembled as normal with my K&N filter. started up just fine once i got it all installed... sorry for jumping around. SO i finnally had the codes ran and i am throwing a P0102. the car was throwing the same code for both MAF's. My conector looks fine and i dont see any damage, what do you guys think? tomorrow i can make a video.
After the first initial run and i shut the car off i can plug it in and she will start fine, and after my 6 hour shift at work sitting in 32*f weather she starts fine as well. Its almost like a morning temper tantrum lol
MODS: Cut the CATS, Magnaflow Exhaust, 2" drop with Eibach Springs, Koni shocks, Free Ram Air Mod.
http://www.obd-codes.com/p0102
The problem is your K&N air filter. It sheds oil on to the MAF over time and this keeps the MAF from reading the proper air flow in to the engine.
MAF cleaner should clean up the MAF for you. (You need this special cleaner as it does not leave residue on the contacts and won't dissolve the plastic parts.)
IMO - The K&N isn't worth this grief. I threw mine away, went back to paper, and life has been great since.
The problem is your K&N air filter. It sheds oil on to the MAF over time and this keeps the MAF from reading the proper air flow in to the engine.
MAF cleaner should clean up the MAF for you. (You need this special cleaner as it does not leave residue on the contacts and won't dissolve the plastic parts.)
IMO - The K&N isn't worth this grief. I threw mine away, went back to paper, and life has been great since.
Thread Starter
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Oct 2012
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From: Moore, Oklahoma
http://www.obd-codes.com/p0102
The problem is your K&N air filter. It sheds oil on to the MAF over time and this keeps the MAF from reading the proper air flow in to the engine.
MAF cleaner should clean up the MAF for you. (You need this special cleaner as it does not leave residue on the contacts and won't dissolve the plastic parts.)
IMO - The K&N isn't worth this grief. I threw mine away, went back to paper, and life has been great since.
The problem is your K&N air filter. It sheds oil on to the MAF over time and this keeps the MAF from reading the proper air flow in to the engine.
MAF cleaner should clean up the MAF for you. (You need this special cleaner as it does not leave residue on the contacts and won't dissolve the plastic parts.)
IMO - The K&N isn't worth this grief. I threw mine away, went back to paper, and life has been great since.
Could it be something with the PCV valve or any vaccume lines? this video is of the MAF connected in the morning
Last edited by Mista Blazer; Dec 30, 2012 at 03:40 PM.
No. The oil is a fine mist and most of its gets atomized in the air and burns up in the engine... except for the stuff that accumulates on the MAF. The MAF works by heating an element in the sensor. As air moves over the sensor, it cools it down changing its resistance - which is what the engine sees. The heated element attracts the oil and isn't hot enough to burn it off like its designed to do for other contaminants. You can actually see the oil as a black char on the element, but you need to disassemble it and use a magnifying glass. (Just doing this will run a high possibility that you'd damage the sensor, which is an expensive thing.)
Not if you are getting a MAF fault. (Unplugging the MAF also isolated the issue for you.) It may not be a dirty sensor. It could be a bad sensor but a $5 can of MAF cleaner is the cheapest thing to try first.
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From: Moore, Oklahoma
You'll have to until you get rid of the source of contamination.
No. The oil is a fine mist and most of its gets atomized in the air and burns up in the engine... except for the stuff that accumulates on the MAF. The MAF works by heating an element in the sensor. As air moves over the sensor, it cools it down changing its resistance - which is what the engine sees. The heated element attracts the oil and isn't hot enough to burn it off like its designed to do for other contaminants. You can actually see the oil as a black char on the element, but you need to disassemble it and use a magnifying glass. (Just doing this will run a high possibility that you'd damage the sensor, which is an expensive thing.)
Not if you are getting a MAF fault. (Unplugging the MAF also isolated the issue for you.) It may not be a dirty sensor. It could be a bad sensor but a $5 can of MAF cleaner is the cheapest thing to try first.
No. The oil is a fine mist and most of its gets atomized in the air and burns up in the engine... except for the stuff that accumulates on the MAF. The MAF works by heating an element in the sensor. As air moves over the sensor, it cools it down changing its resistance - which is what the engine sees. The heated element attracts the oil and isn't hot enough to burn it off like its designed to do for other contaminants. You can actually see the oil as a black char on the element, but you need to disassemble it and use a magnifying glass. (Just doing this will run a high possibility that you'd damage the sensor, which is an expensive thing.)
Not if you are getting a MAF fault. (Unplugging the MAF also isolated the issue for you.) It may not be a dirty sensor. It could be a bad sensor but a $5 can of MAF cleaner is the cheapest thing to try first.
Staging Lane
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 77
Likes: 2
From: Massachusetts
Having the same issue.. I had 2 MAF's laying around and I cleared the code and it stayed of for the whole time I ran it for a good solid 15 minutes.. I then shut the car off and started it back up and check engine light came back on and I scanned it and got the code P0102 again.. My mods are Long tube headers, high flow cats, SLP Loud mouth, 4,000 YANK Stall, Tuned, and deleted rear O2's, Aftermarket LS1 CAI with K&N Filter which needs to be cleaned anyways.. My friend sold this car to me its a 99 Z28 LS1.. I guess Im going to buy a can of MAF Cleaner and see what happens. If there is anything else, please feel free to chime in.. thanks guys for the help
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Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 503
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From: TX
Triple check the connector for corrosion or bent pins. Also trace the wiring as far as you can for a wire rubbed through the insulation. Then check for air leaks past the maf, around the boot, tb etc. Also after i clean or replace the maf i like to unhook the battery to reset the pcm. Then drive it for a while at various loads including a couple wot runs.
Good luck.
Good luck.
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Staging Lane
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 77
Likes: 2
From: Massachusetts
Bought a can of MAF spray cleaner.. I took the MAF out and Cleaned it with the spray, then made sure it dried, doesnt take too long for that.. then I put it back on and connected the MAF connector to the MAF, put my car in ACC and pluged in my OB2 Scanner Deleted code, then took key out and disconnected scanner, then put key in and started it up to full running temp.. No sign of check engine light coming on... let the car run for a bit, then shut it off.. waited about 15 seconds, started it back up, and the check engine light came back on.. shut the car off hooked scanner up and it was getting 2 codes. both of which were the P0102 code and one of them was Pending.. I cant drive the car around as its not registered yet.. What else should I be looking for.. besides what was mentioned and some of the above posts? Anything else I should be looking for or did I miss something? Any help would be great.. Thanks guys, sorry for the long post... oh also when I unplugged the MAF with engine running, I didnt notice any difference in Idle, but when I disconnected the connector on that sensor that goes on the side of my air box, it idled funny (Not sure the name of that sensor LOL) but when I shut the car off and restarted it, with that disconnected the car seemed to idle fine.
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Verdad Gallardo A few of us have had to clean the element directly with a Q-Tip, but that's a delicate operation. (The wires are fragile.) If the wires are black under magnification, the soil isn't off of them, yet.
Did you still have the protective screens on the MAF and were the wires intact inside? (Sometimes people remove that protection.)
Did you still have the protective screens on the MAF and were the wires intact inside? (Sometimes people remove that protection.)
get a hold of scanner and someone that knows how to
use it. check the short and long term fuel trim numbers.
are they pegged +25% or -25%?
while driving watch the Grams per Second MAF
readings.
should go well past 100grams at WOT full load.
this is possible O2 sensors.
use it. check the short and long term fuel trim numbers.
are they pegged +25% or -25%?
while driving watch the Grams per Second MAF
readings.
should go well past 100grams at WOT full load.
this is possible O2 sensors.
Staging Lane
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 77
Likes: 2
From: Massachusetts
A few of us have had to clean the element directly with a Q-Tip, but that's a delicate operation. (The wires are fragile.) If the wires are black under magnification, the soil isn't off of them, yet.
Did you still have the protective screens on the MAF and were the wires intact inside? (Sometimes people remove that protection.)
Did you still have the protective screens on the MAF and were the wires intact inside? (Sometimes people remove that protection.)
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 503
Likes: 54
From: TX
The sensor that plugs into the lid is the intake air temp.
Do you have a volt meter or test light? Theres 3 wires coming out of maf. Yellow is the signal wire that goes into the pcm. Black and white wire is a ground that goes to the rear of the left head. Pink is 12v, which i fed by engine sensor fuse, 20 amps. Check for power and ground.
That fuse also goes to the o2 sensors, so a problem with them could trigger a maf code.
The best way check is to watch live data with a scan tool. Grams per sec should be around 6 to 8 at idle.
Do you have a volt meter or test light? Theres 3 wires coming out of maf. Yellow is the signal wire that goes into the pcm. Black and white wire is a ground that goes to the rear of the left head. Pink is 12v, which i fed by engine sensor fuse, 20 amps. Check for power and ground.
That fuse also goes to the o2 sensors, so a problem with them could trigger a maf code.
The best way check is to watch live data with a scan tool. Grams per sec should be around 6 to 8 at idle.
There's a reason why the OEM's put them on... I'm not sure why people take them off.
I'd take it apart then and put the wires under a magnifying glass to:
- see how good your cleaning did on getting the black gunk off
- see if any of the elements are broken or frayed - if so, you may need a new sensor
I'd take it apart then and put the wires under a magnifying glass to:
- see how good your cleaning did on getting the black gunk off
- see if any of the elements are broken or frayed - if so, you may need a new sensor
Staging Lane
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 77
Likes: 2
From: Massachusetts
The sensor that plugs into the lid is the intake air temp.
Do you have a volt meter or test light? Theres 3 wires coming out of maf. Yellow is the signal wire that goes into the pcm. Black and white wire is a ground that goes to the rear of the left head. Pink is 12v, which i fed by engine sensor fuse, 20 amps. Check for power and ground.
That fuse also goes to the o2 sensors, so a problem with them could trigger a maf code.
The best way check is to watch live data with a scan tool. Grams per sec should be around 6 to 8 at idle.
Do you have a volt meter or test light? Theres 3 wires coming out of maf. Yellow is the signal wire that goes into the pcm. Black and white wire is a ground that goes to the rear of the left head. Pink is 12v, which i fed by engine sensor fuse, 20 amps. Check for power and ground.
That fuse also goes to the o2 sensors, so a problem with them could trigger a maf code.
The best way check is to watch live data with a scan tool. Grams per sec should be around 6 to 8 at idle.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 503
Likes: 54
From: TX
I didn't have enough time to get in depth with this today, but I did look at the "Engine Sensor Fuse" and it was blown... I then replaced it with a new 20A fuse, deleted code with scanner, started car check engine light was off... Turned car off briefly then started it back up, only this time check engine light came back on.. I then checked the " Engine Sensor Fuse" and again it was blown.. I'm guessing there's a short somewhere..
You did say you have manual, theres gotta be a diagram in there right? Possibly the heater circuit for the o2 sensors, but it could be a number of things.
Staging Lane
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 77
Likes: 2
From: Massachusetts
Ahhh...its all coming together now. Theres gotta be a short to ground somwhere. Ill look at some wiring diagrams tomorrow at work. Ill let you know what all runs off that fuse.
You did say you have manual, theres gotta be a diagram in there right? Possibly the heater circuit for the o2 sensors, but it could be a number of things.
You did say you have manual, theres gotta be a diagram in there right? Possibly the heater circuit for the o2 sensors, but it could be a number of things.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 503
Likes: 54
From: TX
Ok i looked up a wiring diagram. Here is a list of everything that runs off that fuse.
Mass air flow
Heater circuit on all 4 o2 sensors
Reverse lockout solenoid
Skipshift solenoid
Brake lamp switch on brake pedal
They are all pink wires.
What i would do is unplug all those connectors, inspect them for obvious damage.
Replace the fuse, turn the key on, then plug them in one by one and watch for the fuse to blow.
Mass air flow
Heater circuit on all 4 o2 sensors
Reverse lockout solenoid
Skipshift solenoid
Brake lamp switch on brake pedal
They are all pink wires.
What i would do is unplug all those connectors, inspect them for obvious damage.
Replace the fuse, turn the key on, then plug them in one by one and watch for the fuse to blow.
Staging Lane
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 77
Likes: 2
From: Massachusetts
I unplugged the passenger side O2 and it stopped blowing the Engine Sensor Fuse think I found the main source of the problem... No check engine lights on and or pending. guess I have to replace that o2... anything else Im missing? thanks again for the quick response and help 
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 503
Likes: 54
From: TX
I unplugged the passenger side O2 and it stopped blowing the Engine Sensor Fuse think I found the main source of the problem... No check engine lights on and or pending. guess I have to replace that o2... anything else Im missing? thanks again for the quick response and help
