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Air pump fuse question??

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Old Jan 16, 2013 | 05:16 PM
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Default Air pump fuse question??

I have a 99 z28 and it keeps blowing the air pump fuse. Any ideas why this might be happening.
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Old Jan 16, 2013 | 08:13 PM
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The air pump and its hose is full of condensation... everytime the pump runs the water causes a short which blows the fuse.

The air pump/hose get full of condensation when (for some reason) the secondary air is not able to get past the 2 check valves and into the exhaust.

Last edited by joecar; Jan 16, 2013 at 08:26 PM.
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Old Jan 16, 2013 | 10:42 PM
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Ok so how do you fix that?
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Old Jan 17, 2013 | 04:17 AM
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Possible causes:
- check valves may be rusted shut,
- diverter valve not working,
- solenoid fed vacuum to diverter valve is disrupted.

Troubleshooting chart: http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic8860.php
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Old Jan 17, 2013 | 09:17 AM
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So the best thing to do first is to change out the check valves right?
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Old Jan 17, 2013 | 09:35 AM
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If they're the cause (by being rusted shut).
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Old Jan 17, 2013 | 11:18 AM
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I got a better idea. I don't have emissions here so I can eliminate egr and air pump all together. Where can I get block off plates to do this and is there a step by step procedure on doing this. I rather go this route since I want to change the plugs soon anyway. A much cleaner engine bay.
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Old Jan 17, 2013 | 05:57 PM
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I deleted my egr and air pump today and found a major leak coming from the egr pipe that connects in the intake the bolt was stripped out and I just pulled it straight up. Could this have been the cause of the problems I have been having. The air pump also had some dry rotted air lines connected also. I haven't had a chance to block the headers off yet. I won't be able to do this until tomorrow but I was just wondering would this have been the reason for the lack of performance.
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Old Jan 17, 2013 | 06:06 PM
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I also pulled the number 1 spark plug and they had AC delco plugs but they were gapped at 40. Is this ok or should they be gapped at 60. Should I go ahead and change all the plugs just to be on the safe side. I was thinking of the NGK tr55s. Any advice on this issue also.
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Old Jan 18, 2013 | 12:33 AM
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I researched a couple years ago and installed the NGK TR5IX and they are pre-gapped at .040 which is what you want to use. They should install out the box just fine, Be careful if you do decide to gap them as you can damage the tip. You might as well install new wires too.
here is a good link to info
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...5ix-plugs.html
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Old Jan 18, 2013 | 07:06 AM
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Thanks I will try those out. But I still haven't got any feed back about the egr and air pump system. I guess I'll find out on my own today once I get everything back together.
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Old Jan 18, 2013 | 08:32 AM
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remove the EGR and AIR and buy the block off plates from ws6 store
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Old Jan 18, 2013 | 08:42 AM
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No need to spend unnecessary money. I bought a 35mm freeze plug to black egr going into the intake. and on the headers I will cut off the pipes and weld those up and grind them down and install. This should work.
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Old Jan 18, 2013 | 02:44 PM
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i have the AIR block off plates around here somewhere. i bought them before i found out i didn't need them. i got Race style headers. if you want them and if shipping is cheap, let me know, i'll just give them to you.
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Old Jan 18, 2013 | 04:56 PM
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I can't beat that. Sure I will take them just let me know how much shipping is. Thanks alot.
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Old Jan 19, 2013 | 01:54 AM
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ngk tr55 for the plugs, for the block off its really no big deal sooner or later, you'll get headers.
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Old Jan 19, 2013 | 08:41 AM
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Originally Posted by AmDWs6
ngk tr55 for the plugs, for the block off its really no big deal sooner or later, you'll get headers.
Well you see I already have headers and they do have the emissions so I will need the block offs.
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