Blinking security light
Blinking security light I have a 2000 pontiac trans am ws6. One night I tried to start it and it wouldn't start. The security light blinked on the dash cluster. I had my tuner/mechanic take a look at it. He said the BCM went bad after several checks.
They installed a new BCM except the security light still blinks. By the way this was a couple of years ago. I asked him why the light still blinked and he said that the system had a clitch.
I went to the dealer and they said it might take sometime to find it. I have been driving the car for a couple of years with the light still blinking. Starts fine but once in a while it will not start.I remove the battery cable and it's ok for a while. I have read many posts about this problem.
My question is can I reset this somehow so I can get the security light on the instrument cluster to stop flashing. I figured that it was time to fix the problem once and for all.
They installed a new BCM except the security light still blinks. By the way this was a couple of years ago. I asked him why the light still blinked and he said that the system had a clitch.
I went to the dealer and they said it might take sometime to find it. I have been driving the car for a couple of years with the light still blinking. Starts fine but once in a while it will not start.I remove the battery cable and it's ok for a while. I have read many posts about this problem.
My question is can I reset this somehow so I can get the security light on the instrument cluster to stop flashing. I figured that it was time to fix the problem once and for all.
Last edited by transwiz; Apr 3, 2013 at 01:28 PM.
I read a post on here one time and can't find it again. Something about when your car won't start try this. Turn the key like your trying to start the car.Then turn the key back to the on position.Let it sit for ten minutes until the security light stops flashing then try to start it. Can't remember the exact reason for doing this.
Any help you can give me will be appreciated.
Any help you can give me will be appreciated.
Try a vats bypass, but it will only work if vats is activating and actually causing said problem.
To my knowledge, vats symptoms are no start, no crank, and security light stays lit when turning key to on or trying to start car.
Bad, misaligned PN switch can cause this too...if u have an auto. If u here a click when turning key, its not the PN switch
To my knowledge, vats symptoms are no start, no crank, and security light stays lit when turning key to on or trying to start car.
Bad, misaligned PN switch can cause this too...if u have an auto. If u here a click when turning key, its not the PN switch
This is the security word by the dash guages not the red led.It seemed like most people on here are talking about the red led.Tried the bypass
and reading checking the key resistance on the ignition switch(two white wires) and it's all ok. Security light next to the ses light still blinks.
and reading checking the key resistance on the ignition switch(two white wires) and it's all ok. Security light next to the ses light still blinks.
Last edited by transwiz; Apr 4, 2013 at 01:44 AM.
Update: The car would not turn over. Pulled the battery cable and re-inistalled twice.Car started once then I put it in the driveway.Did the bypass mod and the car started. Also what a miracle, the blinking security on the dash cluster went off for the first time in 2 years.
I guess that I did not have the resistor making full contact in the connector.What is with the dealer and my mechanic. The dealer said they might not be able to fix it. My mechanic said it was an enomilee and to put tape over the light.What is with these yo-yo heads.I will keep my eye on the car.
I guess that I did not have the resistor making full contact in the connector.What is with the dealer and my mechanic. The dealer said they might not be able to fix it. My mechanic said it was an enomilee and to put tape over the light.What is with these yo-yo heads.I will keep my eye on the car.
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Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 251
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From: the shit hole of Albuquerque, New Mexico
Of all the vats problems I have fixed over the years, 90% of the were cut wires from the ignition key cylinder. Everytime one turns the key the little wires bend and wear and after a while the will break. Here is a picture of the wires i am talking about:
this is a newer version with better wires insulator but same basic set up. The old wires that break were usually orange and white instead of 'clear' wrapped. I bet one of these is cut. The car will usually start with a cut wire as long as battery power hasn't been disconnected and the last key used to start the car had the correct chip in it. The light flashes to tell you at that point there is a problem. If battery power was lost then the car wont start. Unfortunatly you have to remove the steering wheel and S.I.R. coil to physically check the wires. Hope this helps some...
this is a newer version with better wires insulator but same basic set up. The old wires that break were usually orange and white instead of 'clear' wrapped. I bet one of these is cut. The car will usually start with a cut wire as long as battery power hasn't been disconnected and the last key used to start the car had the correct chip in it. The light flashes to tell you at that point there is a problem. If battery power was lost then the car wont start. Unfortunatly you have to remove the steering wheel and S.I.R. coil to physically check the wires. Hope this helps some...
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Joined: Jul 2004
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From: the shit hole of Albuquerque, New Mexico
I don't know about the part number, i didn't pay attention to it unfortunatly -sorry. As for removing the SIR coil and wheel, you will need a steering wheel puller, snap ring pliers and a lock plate compressor along with some standard tools.. They can be had at most auto parts store along with a decent repair manual.
If you haven't done it before its kind of a pain because of a lot of smaller parts to keep track of and the air bag thing can be scary if your not used to messing with them. I unhook the battery and remove the airbag fuse and then start to take it apart.
I could take it all apart in about a half hour taking my time but I probably have done 40+ of these types of repairs over the years.
If you were closer I would say bring it on over and I would take it apart for you and check it out no charge but I have a feeling you are a ways away from where I'm at.
If you haven't done it before its kind of a pain because of a lot of smaller parts to keep track of and the air bag thing can be scary if your not used to messing with them. I unhook the battery and remove the airbag fuse and then start to take it apart.
I could take it all apart in about a half hour taking my time but I probably have done 40+ of these types of repairs over the years.
If you were closer I would say bring it on over and I would take it apart for you and check it out no charge but I have a feeling you are a ways away from where I'm at.
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Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 555
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From: NearHouston, TX
It is a miracle your car worked for that long with the security light flashing. Usually it starts flashing a few times and then totally locks you out! Solder those VATS bypass resistors wires in good and be done with it. If you get the car tuned by a pro tuner, ask them to bypass the VATS in the software (Is just another piece of the puzzle). If your worried about someone actually stealing your car, hide a kill switch somewhere. That VATS system is going to get someone mugged, raped killed, my bet is that it already has. I'd tell anyone buying a used GM car with the key pellet - bypass the VATS first! I got stuck at my daughter's dance class, luckily in a good part of Houston in daytime. A few exits down the freeway at night time could have been ugly
If I buy a new key cylinder I assume that it comes with the new keys that fit that ignition.
Do I go the the dealer after that and get a key # with the right resistance for the vats
and have them make a copy on that one?Lets say my key pellet # is 2 (523 ohm) do I get that key and make a copy to fit that ignition?
Do I go the the dealer after that and get a key # with the right resistance for the vats
and have them make a copy on that one?Lets say my key pellet # is 2 (523 ohm) do I get that key and make a copy to fit that ignition?
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 555
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From: NearHouston, TX
I had replacement keys made at a mom and pop locksmith and they measured the resistance and knew what blanks to cut. I'm sure dealerships would charge a lot, that locksmith charged me about $10 per key. Take the old key with you with your new set of keys and just tell them you need that the old pellet resistance.
that said, I recommend bypassing VATS anyway with resistors, or keep a small socket drive and the resistors in the glove box in case you get stranded somewhere. If you are really worried about car theft, or don't want a friend, kid or wife to grab your keys for a joy ride while you are out of town, a kill switch is the way to go.
that said, I recommend bypassing VATS anyway with resistors, or keep a small socket drive and the resistors in the glove box in case you get stranded somewhere. If you are really worried about car theft, or don't want a friend, kid or wife to grab your keys for a joy ride while you are out of town, a kill switch is the way to go.
Yes I would agree that it is a good idea to keep a resistor at my value in the car at all times. Especially after I get the ignition switch fixed.
Thanks to everyone that posted on this thread,you guys saved my ***.
Thanks to everyone that posted on this thread,you guys saved my ***.
