iLLuSi0nz

iTrader: (2)

Would someone be able to help answer a few questions about the pulleys? I believe the one in this picture that I'm pointing to is the tensioner pulley? Is that correct?

This thing chirps like crazy when cold and makes another different annoying noise when it warms up. I'd like to replace it but I've read a crap ton of different threads / posts regarding what people think the best replacement is.

I bought this Duralast from Autozone but I believe this is an idler pulley and not a tensioner. Not a big deal I can keep it for when one of those needs replaced.

So here are my other questions. What pulley is best to replace the tensioner with? I've read that the plastic ones are **** is that accurate? Why do some pulleys have a lip / wall like the stock one and some are smooth like the this Duralast pulley is? Does the tension of the belt on the pulleys keep it from rolling off the side?

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

The first picture is the tensioner and pulley. Second picture is just one pulley.

That pulley won't work on that belt tensioner though. Wrong pulley. You need the pulley that has grooves in it so the belt can rest in them and not move forward and backwards and fall off the pulley.

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sjsingle1

iTrader: (1)

tensioners do go bad.......so it is a good idea to replace the whole assembly

and new belts could make a difference.......my fave are goodyear gatorbacks

ls1 1990 VN

Yes you are pointing to the tensioner pulley, just get the standard OE assembly, 'pulley/tensioner' you will be good to go.

iLLuSi0nz

iTrader: (2)

So you guys suggest replacing the whole assembly rather than just the pulley? At what point with horsepower is it a good idea to upgrade this assembly / pulley?

I figure I'll be fine with stock for a while since all I plan on doing to the car for now is headers and duals. If an upgrade to prevent even unlikely belt slip is not that much price difference I may do that.

Where does stuff like the gatorback one come from and How much of a pain is replacing that assembly?

sjsingle1

iTrader: (1)

the tensioner is only 2 bolts.............so its really hard

i really like dayco units for pulleys and tensioners

i buy those and the gatorbacks on rockauto.com

JDEP162

^^^^ this, just did mine. Quiet at last

dailydriver

Summit also carries the Gatorbacks.

Ironically you CANNOT get them at the many Goodyesr stores around the nation, as they just REFUSE to carry them.

I also have found that ALL of the indie/mom & pop parts stores in my area (even the ones that used to) no longer carry them either.

BODUKE

I just replaced mine witth a dayco complete runs perfect.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

That's the question. There is DEFINITELY a certain HP number where the belt will not stay on when you wack the throttle hard. By he factory tensioner is really, really a crap design.
When I first got my 427ci installed and broke it in for a few days driving it easy.....the first time I went and smacked the throttle......BYE-BYE belt.

Here's a post I made a few days ago.........I suggest you also do it now. Save belts and you'll never have to go by that crappy tensioner again when the next one wears out.....and it will wear out. Katech is for life. And you very well may never buy another serpentine belt again......as long as you own the car anyway.

My post the other day:

Get yourself a Katech Belt Tensioner.....

It's a fixed tensioner.....it does not move with a spring like the factory tensioner does. This is the major flaw in the design of the factory tensioner.....it's allowed to bounce anytime the accelerator is hit. This does two things....allows the belt to slip as you accelerate and it also stretches the belt....which then later on causes it to come off and rip when you hit the throttle one day. then your stuck on the side of the road.

YES....the factory tensioner works. That's obvious. But it's a crap design. All the geniuses at GM had to do was to make a fixed tensioner. It would have been cheaper to design it. No moving parts. Then people would never have belts flying off and the belts last 10 years....easily. The belt on my engine was on my 427ci for the past 9-10 years, can't remember exactly. Now that same belt is on my new 390ci.......it's in perfect condition. The factory tensioner RUINS belts and they wear out and you have to throw it away and buy a new one. How stupid is that.......

..

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

I put the Goodyear pullies on my car, which is a 140K daily driver and the tensioner is doing just fine. Just undo the bolt, take the old pullies off, put the new ones on, tighten bolt. So easy a caveman could do it.


The tensioner has a spring on it. All springs wear out over time. So, if you have slipping or increase hp way above what the car came with from the factory, then replacing the stock unit or moving to a manually adjusted tensioner might make sense. If everything is OK, now, I'd just put the correct pulley on and faget-abat-it. (Until you make changes that require an additional investment. IMO - No need to put wear and tear on an upgraded part until you really need it.)

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

The only reason I tell people to get the Katech fixed tensioner.....EVEN if they are remaining bone stock....

-Belts will last 10+ years
-They WILL have to replace the new tensioner once again when the new one wears out
-And they will never, ever, even with a bone stock engine.....have to worry about throwing a belt when running the car hard....WHICH DOES HAPPEN with bone stock engines. The tensioner bounces and that's why belts fly off......

So the Katech pays for itself....even when remaining bone stock. And then forever, the Katech saves you money on having to buy old stretched and cracking belts and the belt simply CANNOT come off the pulley no matter what you do or how hard you drive it....

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LS6427

iTrader: (2)

I look at the factory tensioner like I do a MAF sensor. Even when the MAF is brand new or its just been cleaned real good.......the second it's put on and you start to drive it also starts getting dirty and the performance of the engine gradually decreases until its cleaned again.

Same with a tensioner. The second you put a new one on it starts to wear out as you drive....and that new belt starts to stretch and bounce and crack. Then you buy a new tensioner and start over.....

Fixed tensioner eliminates all the bad and adds some good.

.

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iLLuSi0nz

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for all the good info on this. I now have several options to go with

Honestly right now I just want my pulley to shut the hell up so I may try just replacing the pulley for 10-15 bucks. wssix99 do you by chance have the part number for that pulley?

Thanks for the info on the Katech. I'll probably get one after my headers and duels. I like the idea of one less part to wonder about when adding hp. New pulley should get me by for the meantime. What belts are you guys running with the gatorback pulley and Katech btw?

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

You can get part numbers from Goodyear and check them with your parts supplier's cross reference. http://www.goodyearep.com/productsdetail.aspx?id=9488