overheated oil or damaged something?
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From: VA
overheated oil or damaged something? so i went to the track last night (circle track) and long story shortni usually use 3rd gear all the way around the track and do well in it, well i was watching my rpms and now that my new engine has arp rod bolts and good valve train i can go to 6400rpms (maybe moore just set rev limit to that to be safe) so i tryed 2nd gear instead of 3rd all was good till the last lap, i ended up hitting rev limiter right across the finish line half a sec before i would let out to come to the turn (averaged maybe 5800-6k rpms whole time) the car slowed suddenly and quickly for a sec then resumed normal decell, in doing so i smoked bad out the back the rest of the way around till the pits it cleared up (blaming pcv system as its done this before after laps but never anywere else)and also when it did that i looked down and i was at about 240 ish temp so i pulled it in and let it idle and cool down, in doing so i usually idle at about 30-40psi oil pressure, i was only at about 15-20psi at idle and for the rest of the drive home, car runs fine today and seems to be no problem but when its full operating temp and its heat of the day (100 degrees) i have maybe 10psi give or take lower oil pressure, anything above 1300 rpms its at 40psi but what im wondering is could i have damaged anything or can u "overheat" oil and if so will it loose its thickness/viscosity?
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lol the motor had 1800 miles on it, and of course i bought the short block preassembled from some one else so the part i didnt do or check/redo fails... kinda kickin my self for that, was a full forged arp studded low CR engine, i literally got my turbo kit shipped the day the engine went after waiting a month, and yes the engine was mail order tuned, kinda a kick in the ***** there, ima throw a $500 5.3l in it with my heads cam and etc and what ever else thats salvageable and run that till i can do a rebuild on this or find something else. the engine was a 347 ls1 9:1 CR, blower cam, 243 heads, ls7 lifters, trunnion upgraded rocker arms, forged dished weisco pistons, RPM 6.1 forged H beams, arp bolts or studs were ever i could, spent the last 8-10 months putting it all together : \ guess i get to see what E85 on a shortblock 5.3l does
Last edited by ToxicWS6; Jun 15, 2013 at 09:55 AM.
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yeah, sorry about, ill try to add pics when i get on my comp, but the guy i got the short block from didnt put the correct rod caps on the correct rods, the caps were just mixed up and then i dont think they were torqued correctly cause 3 bolts out of the 16 were a bit looser then the rest, a few were signifigantly tighter then the rest, scored crank and rods and heated up one cap so much it blued, these were after market H beams too
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I wouldn't do any circle track with out a baffled pan that is ment for cornering.you mite have been putting a lot of in into the oil system with all the oil splashing to 1 side of the pan.plus the oil was probably getting whipped by the crank and rod splashing throught it.
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craigslist ad so no : / i drove the car the engine was in and watched him pull it out next day so assumed it was fine but, and wouldnt the windage tray stop rods and crank from hittin oil, and i thought about getting a baffled oil pan tray, or putting baffles on mine, what about the "triangle" looking baffle things in the pan? not enough?
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From: Bucks County, Pa.
I wouldn't do any circle track with out a baffled pan that is ment for cornering.you mite have been putting a lot of in into the oil system with all the oil splashing to 1 side of the pan.plus the oil was probably getting whipped by the crank and rod splashing throught it.
Which track is this, what degree on the banking, and just how sticky are the tires you are using???
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ill have to look into this then cause i plan on doing this again next summer also if not with this car then a designated ls powered car so, ill look into the accusump then and a baffled tray
right now its a small local circle track, some lean in the turns but idk degrees, Langly speed way if yall care to look it up
stock street tires atm 275/40R17s up front, nitto 555s and 315/35r17s in rear, plan on getting a set of 295/35r17 hoosier A6s next year though so
right now its a small local circle track, some lean in the turns but idk degrees, Langly speed way if yall care to look it up
stock street tires atm 275/40R17s up front, nitto 555s and 315/35r17s in rear, plan on getting a set of 295/35r17 hoosier A6s next year though so
12 Second Club
Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Bucks County, Pa.
ill have to look into this then cause i plan on doing this again next summer also if not with this car then a designated ls powered car so, ill look into the accusump then and a baffled tray
right now its a small local circle track, some lean in the turns but idk degrees, Langly speed way if yall care to look it up
stock street tires atm 275/40R17s up front, nitto 555s and 315/35r17s in rear, plan on getting a set of 295/35r17 hoosier A6s next year though so
right now its a small local circle track, some lean in the turns but idk degrees, Langly speed way if yall care to look it up
stock street tires atm 275/40R17s up front, nitto 555s and 315/35r17s in rear, plan on getting a set of 295/35r17 hoosier A6s next year though so
Those Hoosiers gumballs have MORE THAN TWICE the 'stick' of the street Nittos, so your problems would ONLY be greater with them and no other oiling helpers.
BTW; the R6es will last MUCH longer than the A6es will, but do take longer to come "up to operational temps".
