AC issue/ Voltage problem?
AC issue/ Voltage problem? The AC in my car was blowing hard but not cold. I had it checked out, and the place told me the Compressor was dead. Yesterday I had a new AC Compressor installed. Also had the system vac'd and recharged
Problem #1. The air coming out of the vent is just cool enough from keeping me from sweating.
Problem #2. The drier is not getting cold to the touch, cool but not cold and the lines are not sweating
Problem #3. I noticed as soon as i got in the car yesterday when they where finished that my battery gauge was almost in the red. I asked him if they did anything with the battery cables or anything and he said no. As I drove it around it came back up to just around the 12v mark. However, when I sit still and the compressor kicks on/off the needle dips back down almost to the red area.
Anyone have any input on this?
Problem #1. The air coming out of the vent is just cool enough from keeping me from sweating.
Problem #2. The drier is not getting cold to the touch, cool but not cold and the lines are not sweating
Problem #3. I noticed as soon as i got in the car yesterday when they where finished that my battery gauge was almost in the red. I asked him if they did anything with the battery cables or anything and he said no. As I drove it around it came back up to just around the 12v mark. However, when I sit still and the compressor kicks on/off the needle dips back down almost to the red area.
Anyone have any input on this?
Problem #4. When I get on the gas, not WOT but at a steady press of the pedal, the AC stops blowing out the vents and only blows out of the defrost and floor vents.
Problem #5. When I turn the AC completely off, the battery gauge goes back to normal levels and stays there
Problem #5. When I turn the AC completely off, the battery gauge goes back to normal levels and stays there
is your car completely stock? otherwise what's been done?
#4 when you put the engine under load there is less vacuum in the intake manifold, or air pressure is higher. The AC vents, and head unit in the dash, operate off engine vacuum to move the vents. when under load there is less vacuum so that may be why the vents are changing. otherwise you have a bad vacuum source or a bad vacuum line running from the motor to the ac head unit in the dash.
#5 there's a clutch on the AC compressor that is electrically powered. however when you have the ac on (ac clutch activated) you also have the blower blowing air which is completely independent. so either of those may be drawing too much electrical power, or your alternator is on it's way out, and/or you also have a bad battery.
I would first start by properly charging the battery overnight then let it sit for a day disconnected then measure voltage to see if it holds at 12.6v.
with a good battery check your alternator. at idle with nothing on you should have over 13v at the gauge. don't turn on ac or blower, but turn on head light, and high beams, and depress brake pedal at idle and see if volt gauge drops. if so you have a bad alternator. and if your volt gauge slightly bounces at idle you have a bad alternator.
if things ok up to now, with headlights on turn on heat and blower on high speed to check if blower is doing it. if not then turn on AC and listen for compressor to engage and see if voltage drops, if so then might have a bad compressor clutch. from the way you described the work, it sounds like you did not get a new compressor but maybe a used one.
#2 it sounds like they did a bad AC repair. whenever you have a dead compressor- dead meaning compressor let go internally and there is metal debris now in the system you have to replace and flush a lot of parts otherwise that debris eventually makes its way to the new compressor and destroys it. A new AC compressor comes with a warranty but will not be honored unless proper AC service is either done by licensed shop or proof shown of replaced parts. When replacing the compressor you also need to replace the condenser because that's where the debris will first collect which usually cannot be flushed out. Then you pull and clean the orifice tube and inspect what has collected there to get an idea of how much **** is circulating. You need to replace the accumulator and flush/replace the lines and flush the evaporator, then evacuate then charge the system with oil and r134a. your accumulator isn't getting cold for maybe a few reasons- undercharge or leak in the system which would cause the ac compressor to cycle on/off, or you have a blockage somewhere preventing proper operation. a set of high/low gauges would give indication if the system is trying to operate normally, and only place there should be a drastic temp change is at the orifice tube. output line of the compressor should be hot going to condenser, output line of the condenser should be cooler but warm going to o-tube, then cold after otube into and out of evaporator with the accumulator cold and wet.
not knowing history of car, your voltage issue might be unrelated.
#4 when you put the engine under load there is less vacuum in the intake manifold, or air pressure is higher. The AC vents, and head unit in the dash, operate off engine vacuum to move the vents. when under load there is less vacuum so that may be why the vents are changing. otherwise you have a bad vacuum source or a bad vacuum line running from the motor to the ac head unit in the dash.
#5 there's a clutch on the AC compressor that is electrically powered. however when you have the ac on (ac clutch activated) you also have the blower blowing air which is completely independent. so either of those may be drawing too much electrical power, or your alternator is on it's way out, and/or you also have a bad battery.
I would first start by properly charging the battery overnight then let it sit for a day disconnected then measure voltage to see if it holds at 12.6v.
with a good battery check your alternator. at idle with nothing on you should have over 13v at the gauge. don't turn on ac or blower, but turn on head light, and high beams, and depress brake pedal at idle and see if volt gauge drops. if so you have a bad alternator. and if your volt gauge slightly bounces at idle you have a bad alternator.
if things ok up to now, with headlights on turn on heat and blower on high speed to check if blower is doing it. if not then turn on AC and listen for compressor to engage and see if voltage drops, if so then might have a bad compressor clutch. from the way you described the work, it sounds like you did not get a new compressor but maybe a used one.
#2 it sounds like they did a bad AC repair. whenever you have a dead compressor- dead meaning compressor let go internally and there is metal debris now in the system you have to replace and flush a lot of parts otherwise that debris eventually makes its way to the new compressor and destroys it. A new AC compressor comes with a warranty but will not be honored unless proper AC service is either done by licensed shop or proof shown of replaced parts. When replacing the compressor you also need to replace the condenser because that's where the debris will first collect which usually cannot be flushed out. Then you pull and clean the orifice tube and inspect what has collected there to get an idea of how much **** is circulating. You need to replace the accumulator and flush/replace the lines and flush the evaporator, then evacuate then charge the system with oil and r134a. your accumulator isn't getting cold for maybe a few reasons- undercharge or leak in the system which would cause the ac compressor to cycle on/off, or you have a blockage somewhere preventing proper operation. a set of high/low gauges would give indication if the system is trying to operate normally, and only place there should be a drastic temp change is at the orifice tube. output line of the compressor should be hot going to condenser, output line of the condenser should be cooler but warm going to o-tube, then cold after otube into and out of evaporator with the accumulator cold and wet.
not knowing history of car, your voltage issue might be unrelated.