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Old Sep 25, 2013 | 03:34 PM
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Default Heater hose replacement? Pics inside

I have two hoses that I believe are the heater hoses. But these two hoses are attached to hard lines. Is it possible to just replace the rubber and not the hard line? I have blue tape on the two hoses that need replaced.





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Old Sep 25, 2013 | 04:09 PM
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I think you will find that this link will answer your question and outline, in detail, exactly how you can take care of this:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...-fix-pics.html

Thanks to LS6427 for the great write-up.
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Old Sep 25, 2013 | 04:11 PM
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Originally Posted by RPM WS6
I think you will find that this link will answer your question and outline, in detail, exactly how you can take care of this:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...-fix-pics.html

Thanks to LS6427 for the great write-up.
That's it! Thanks!!
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Old Sep 25, 2013 | 10:31 PM
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Originally Posted by ENASNI TILLER
That's it! Thanks!!
Also, if you don't want to wrestle the heater hose. Assembly out, which isn't so easy. You could just run new hoses from the water pump ports to the firewall ports for the heater core....then just let them sit wherever you want to tuck them.
3/4" hose and the other one is 5/8" hose.

I did that for a few months so I would have heat, until I did that hose assembly fix in my thread......

.
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Old Sep 26, 2013 | 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by LS6427
Also, if you don't want to wrestle the heater hose. Assembly out, which isn't so easy. You could just run new hoses from the water pump ports to the firewall ports for the heater core....then just let them sit wherever you want to tuck them.
3/4" hose and the other one is 5/8" hose.

I did that for a few months so I would have heat, until I did that hose assembly fix in my thread......

.
That's a good idea. I'm going to try getting the hose assembly out first though.
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Old Oct 5, 2013 | 11:57 AM
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Originally Posted by LS6427
Also, if you don't want to wrestle the heater hose. Assembly out, which isn't so easy. You could just run new hoses from the water pump ports to the firewall ports for the heater core....then just let them sit wherever you want to tuck them.
3/4" hose and the other one is 5/8" hose.

I did that for a few months so I would have heat, until I did that hose assembly fix in my thread......

.
I'm going your route. I got the hard line out, and it was a nightmare. I couldn't imagine putting it back in and hooking the hoses back up hehe.
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Old Oct 10, 2013 | 01:54 PM
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Originally Posted by LS6427
Also, if you don't want to wrestle the heater hose. Assembly out, which isn't so easy. You could just run new hoses from the water pump ports to the firewall ports for the heater core....then just let them sit wherever you want to tuck them.
3/4" hose and the other one is 5/8" hose.

I did that for a few months so I would have heat, until I did that hose assembly fix in my thread......

.
Let me see if I understand the steps (for easiest effort)
1. Remove hose assembly
2. Dremel out metal connections
3. Reinstall metal bracket to fender well (without hoses)
4. Install new rubber hoses & clamps from inside the engine bay

I have a brand new OEM hose assembly lying around, but it sounds like I may not want to use it since the re-install is so tough?? I actually tabled this job when I saw how tough it would be just to get it out to begin with.
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Old Oct 10, 2013 | 05:26 PM
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Originally Posted by CRBWS6
Let me see if I understand the steps (for easiest effort)
1. Remove hose assembly
2. Dremel out metal connections
3. Reinstall metal bracket to fender well (without hoses)
4. Install new rubber hoses & clamps from inside the engine bay

I have a brand new OEM hose assembly lying around, but it sounds like I may not want to use it since the re-install is so tough?? I actually tabled this job when I saw how tough it would be just to get it out to begin with.
When my factory rubber hoses started bulging and about to pop, I razor knifed the factory rubber hoses off the metal assembly as much as I could close to the metal lines. I then wrestled the metal assembly out.

just bought two new lengths of hoses and attached them direct. Without the assembly. I drove around like that for about 1 year. Then 6 months ago when my new engine went in I attached that newly rebuilt heater hose assembly I did.....but the engine was out of the car so it was a piece of cake.

I don't know how hard it would be to attach and clamp the hoses onto the metal lines AFTER the assembly was already mounted back in the engine bay. Maybe removing the coil packs would help to be able to attach the hoses first, then snake the assembly back in there.

.
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Old Oct 10, 2013 | 06:35 PM
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10-4. Good idea to do it with new engine. I like your temporary fix (i.e. bypass original with full rubber lines)...this may be what I end up doing. For the time being, I keep a heater core bypass (short U shape) ready in case of hose failure (all other hoses are new).
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Old Oct 10, 2013 | 10:19 PM
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I couldn't imagine how much of a pain it would be to reinstall the hard lines and then attach the new rubber to them. Just getting the hardline out was a nightmare. I got two heater hoses from autozone with 90 degree bends in them to replace the whole assembly. I don't see it failing anytime soon. You might as well replace the thermostat while your in there. I picked up a 160 from summit. I also replaced the radiator hoses and flushed the dexcool out and replaced it with the green stuff. I flushed out the overflow tank as well.
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Old Oct 16, 2013 | 05:57 PM
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Can someone post pics of their "soft" line replacement install to show you tucked the hoses away?
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Old Oct 17, 2013 | 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by CRBWS6
Can someone post pics of their "soft" line replacement install to show you tucked the hoses away?
Damn, I should have taken pictures. But I know I routed them straight back so they laid across the shock tower, then straight back and down then around the accumulator just like the factory hoses run. I also wrapped them with heat tape in the area where they run along side the exhaust manifold/headers. But they were pretty far away and heat wouldn't be an issue anyway. I did not run them down where the factory assembly is mounted, I definitely just ran them over the top area of the shock tower, because it was just temporary.

.
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Old Oct 17, 2013 | 06:18 PM
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I can text you a pic of mine. Just pm me your cell. It's a pain to upload a pic here from my cell.
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