1 FMF

iTrader: (1)

i'm pretty sure if the CKP sensor was the problem you would have a DTC set for it. from all that's been said so far, and you have no dtc's set in the computer, it looks like the best course of action is pulling the valve covers and checking your springs and running a compression test. aside from that, have you checked for spark output from the coils? i would also inspect battery cables and the vicinity where work was done for wiring that could have been broken or compromised. from your description about the car fluttering then not restarting it sounds electrical, and hopefully it's not the PCM.

dailydriver

I just today discovered that the single red wire going into the weather pack connector which plugs into the generator (alternator) was hanging by a single strand, and actually broke off when I was removing the alternator to clean/check the positive cable BOLTED ON connection and the ground strap connection.

This wire goes to the PCM (according to the Helms schematics), does it SUPPLY the power for the PCM, or some other function???
COULD this be keeping the ignition from producing current for spark, or even powering up the PCM?

WHY did they use such a thread gauge size wire for something SO important????

In any case, I have a new one on order from Fred Beans internet (quicker than Rock Auto, and close in price).

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

That is the exciter/field wire. It provides the initial current to the alternator to begin the charging process. Lots of people have broken these during alternator swaps. The engine will still run without it, but the alternator won't produce a charge - so you'll be running on only the battery. This would not prevent the engine from starting, since the engine is started on battery power and not alternator power.

If there is enough battery power to allow for strong cranking of the engine (which is sounds like there is, based on your previous posts), then I don't think this has anything to do with the no-start condition. If this wire had been completely broken or disconnected for any period of time while the car was still in use, then battery voltage would have continued to get lower and lower until it was dead.

dailydriver

Thanks.

Is there a reason for all of the ones on Rock Auto (AC Delco/Airtex Wells) having 4 wires coming out of the connector, vs. the factory installed version only having the one exciter/field wire in the pigtail?? (ONE pat number for different, higher use/demand apps, like the loaded Escalade. for example, maybe?)

1 FMF

iTrader: (1)

this plug goes to the voltage regulator which is internal to the alternator and has a standardized 4-pin receptacle. so you need the standard 4-pin plug. replacement plugs are for use in all alternators so it has 4 wires coming out. you connect your oem wiring to the plug and any extra wires on the new plug you just cap off and don't use.

if you've had other people work on the car, i would go inspecting all your other wiring connections. if they broke the alternator wiring, chances are they broke some other connections too.

dailydriver

Except for the MAJOR stuff, which I have neither the tools, nor the lift to accomplish (changing steering racks, alignments, head work, internal engine work, trans/rear axle rebuilding, etc.), I do ALL of the other work on this car myself, in a parking spot, with a jack, and jack stands, ESPECIALLY the 'routine' maintenance.

Is it necessary to remove the unneeded/unused wires/pins out of that connector/pigtail before installing it??
Also, what is the BEST/most conductive solder to use for the wire splicing (i.e.; rosin core, silver with no rosin, etc.)?

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

If you take the connector cap off the back of the plug, you can remove the excess terminals with a paper clip. (There is a locking tang on the terminal that, once you press down with a paper clip, will release it from the connector body.)

I recommend using crimp connectors on the car. Your new pigtail should come with (if its a GM part) shrink tube crimps that you crimp on and then shrink to form a water tight seal.

If you go the solder route, I'd highly recommend using a rosin core solder. Getting rosin on the wires properly in a tight and dirty environment is not easy. This wire isn't high grade electronics, so it shouldn't matter what purity of solder you use.

dailydriver

^^^Are those shrink tube crimps really as solid/conductive a connection (besides their waterproofing capabilities) as soldering?? (I would put shrink tubing over the soldered joint anyway, as a standard operating procedure.)

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

Yes, if... you have the proper crimper. If you use pliers, etc. and not a ratcheting crimper, it won't be as secure. If you don't have the crimper - soldering will probably give you the most trouble-free connection.

This is what the proper crimper looks like:


The flat oval parts are where the cirmps for these happen and the colors of the letters correspond to the colors of the sealed connectors.

I understand that the connectors that come with the pigtail have a glue inside the shrink tubing that melts and seals the inside from moisture, in addition to the outside of the jacket shrinking.


If you don't have the special cirmper, (its a big investment) you can probably slide the special connector on the wire, solder the two ends, and then re-crimp over the soldered section and take advantage of the better shrink tubing. That would give you two mechanical joins and the high quality shrink tube. (Getting the supplied connectors over two soldered wires may be tough unless they give you multiple sizes.)

dailydriver

Is that crimper a Snap-On, Cal Therm, Lisle, T&B, Klein, etc., etc.???

There are so many of them out there.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

It's a Kent-Moore J-38125-8. This booklet describes how to use them: http://www.weber.edu/wsuimages/autom...%20Booklet.pdf

The important thing is the shape of the crimp die. The ratcheting crimpers are nice but the Kent-More tools tend to be expensive unless you can find a good used one on eBay, etc. There are other ratcheting brands with the same die shape that sell for $30-40. You can also use a hand crimper like these:



The important part is the shape of the die. They will be color coded and will list the gauge for which type of terminal the die will handle.

Matiate

guys, I have been reading youf thread since the problem of my car might be electrical.


I live in North Dakota. I have 2010 V6 3.6L camaro 126000 miles on it. I bought it a year ago. After I bought it, my engine light came on and I diagnised it and it was saying that Misfire 1,3 and 5. Actually I wasn't usually feeling misfire at
all. But during 1 year, I felt misfire badly couple times for a short period time but then my car was working well again after misfire disappears. However last week, my car really misfired badly and didn't disappear as before. I took it to the dealership and they told me that they didn't find any mechanical and electrical issue such as plugs, coils, injectors, fuel pressure etc. and they said that carbon was build up intake air valve. They opened the top manifold and cleaned it with the spray. But they told me that the car doesn't misfire as before but still some misfiring happens. They said the code still reads low air flow. Then they said that they might need to open the engine and take the valves out and physically clean it with the brushes etc. but wanted to charge $1800 for that.I didn't have them do that because wasn't sure if it was the real problem. I picked my car up and started to drive, it wasn't misfiring badly as before but then misfired badly again when it was raining but then turned out well again without misfiring. I have following symptoms,
- my car firstly badly misfire badly when it was cold
it mostly misfire when the weather is cold or raining.
- why is only one bay misfiring (1,3,5) ?
- so when it misfires, why? it is most of the time temporarily bad misfiring , not always happening?
- when my car misfired really badly before taking it to the dealership, my fuel was showing low.

hopefully u might have some info or experience about this issue.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

Check out the video in this recent thread... https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...l#post19734784

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Late to the party but I have been using Klien crimpers for nearly 20 years and have given me nothing but pleasure. I highly recommend them and a selection of terminals from Parts Express in every tool box.

https://www.parts-express.com/Search...itesearch=true

https://www.parts-express.com/klein-...2-awg--362-110