Re-installing A/C, what is needed?
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,453
Likes: 3
From: Glen Burnie, MD
Re-installing A/C, what is needed? OK guys, so i removed my A/C and all of its components in the engine bay (didnt touch the firewall) but i am moving to a hotter climate and wanting to re-install my a/c. I have all the components to go back in, but i need to know what needs to be replaced, and/or serviced before going back in. All these items were removed in 2010.
I already know the Accumulator and filter should be replaced, but my big concern is if the Condenser (radiator looking item that mounts in front of the radiator) needs to be replaced. Mine has been sitting in my garage for the last 3 years, but is still in good physical condition.
Car is a 1999 Trans Am, H/C/I. The one other question is i had the engine tuned with out A/C, does this mean i will need to get it put back on my tune, or will just the low A/C indicator not trip the SES light?
I already know the Accumulator and filter should be replaced, but my big concern is if the Condenser (radiator looking item that mounts in front of the radiator) needs to be replaced. Mine has been sitting in my garage for the last 3 years, but is still in good physical condition.
Car is a 1999 Trans Am, H/C/I. The one other question is i had the engine tuned with out A/C, does this mean i will need to get it put back on my tune, or will just the low A/C indicator not trip the SES light?
if there wasn't a problem with the ac before you removed it, then the condenser should be fine to reuse if you kept it in a safe place and it wasn't stepped on. hopefully you kept the ends capped to keep it clean inside, either way you'll want to put a flush solvent through it to remove any oil that's in there. same for the evaporator, and flush all your lines. drain the oil out of the compressor then you add the amount of oil listed for system capacity, i think it's 9 ounces going from memory, after the system has been evacuated and is leak free. use all new o-rings on your connections, using mineral oil to lube them, not pag oil that goes in the system.
I don't know what you were referring to when you said filter.
I don't know what you were referring to when you said filter.
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,453
Likes: 3
From: Glen Burnie, MD
Sorry i meant to say Orifice Tube (kind of looks like a filter). I will be replacing that, along with the Accumulator and a new A/C gasket install kit. I tapped up the holes on my Condenser right after i took it off, and will be flushing it out before i install it.
Now with the Evaporator, i was thinking of having a shop flush just that part out since it tends to collect the most crap throughout its life. Is this even necessary or would i be fine with a/c flush solvent? I capped the tubes off as well but it has been sitting in the car for 3 years and i am sure water or condensation has built up in there (i live in WA and have to change my brake/clutch fluid every year) over time.
Now with the Evaporator, i was thinking of having a shop flush just that part out since it tends to collect the most crap throughout its life. Is this even necessary or would i be fine with a/c flush solvent? I capped the tubes off as well but it has been sitting in the car for 3 years and i am sure water or condensation has built up in there (i live in WA and have to change my brake/clutch fluid every year) over time.
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,453
Likes: 3
From: Glen Burnie, MD
Any More inputs on re-installing A/C guys? I will be starting this project in a couple months and want to make sure that i get all the pieces together and services done before i install it.
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,453
Likes: 3
From: Glen Burnie, MD
Hey guys, so i just re-installed my A/C today but now i have a problem, it will not turn on. The compressor spins freely and the clutch worked before i removed it. Can the A/C itself be tuned out? When i got my H/C/I tuned i did not have A/C installed in my car and if it wasn't there would the tuner just tune the entire A/C out? Is this even possible?
Does anyone know how many volts go to the compressor to turn it on? If it is 12 volts can i just make a quick jumper wire from the batter to the compressor to test the clutch activation? I tested the line and was getting only 0.5v while the car was on and it did not change when i turned the blower on or the A/C on.
I replaced alot of stuff on it, but i have not filled it with R-134 yet as i was gonna have a shop do it. I just wanted to test the compressor, first. Cause if the compressor does not work, then their is no point to get it charged.
Does anyone know how many volts go to the compressor to turn it on? If it is 12 volts can i just make a quick jumper wire from the batter to the compressor to test the clutch activation? I tested the line and was getting only 0.5v while the car was on and it did not change when i turned the blower on or the A/C on.
I replaced alot of stuff on it, but i have not filled it with R-134 yet as i was gonna have a shop do it. I just wanted to test the compressor, first. Cause if the compressor does not work, then their is no point to get it charged.
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Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,453
Likes: 3
From: Glen Burnie, MD
I just talked to a shop and they told me the same thing, the pressure sensor on the A/C rail near the strut tower needs to be greater then 1 bar to allow the compressor to click on. This keeps the compressor from getting damaged due to low R-134. I am having my system evacuated and charged on Friday. I put a whole 8oz bottle of oil in, but the shop said they will add more oil as the old (technically new) stuff is vacuumed out.
evacuating the system does not suck the oil out. they pull vacuum from the service ports which is the highest point of system. very little if any oil will be removed. the system is supposed to have 9 ounces total of oil. i would be wary of whoever told you that doing the work.
if you want to check for leaks, you put a vacuum pump on the system and pull it down hopefully to around 1000 microns, ideally less, and see if it holds. ask the shop what 'pressure level' do they pull vacuum to and what kind of gauge they use to measure it. don't use the word micron. if they don't say what i said consider finding someone else who's competent. hopefully they're just looking to charge you for oil to make extra $$$ of you.
if you want to check for leaks, you put a vacuum pump on the system and pull it down hopefully to around 1000 microns, ideally less, and see if it holds. ask the shop what 'pressure level' do they pull vacuum to and what kind of gauge they use to measure it. don't use the word micron. if they don't say what i said consider finding someone else who's competent. hopefully they're just looking to charge you for oil to make extra $$$ of you.
