Fracture

iTrader: (5)

So I finally got my hands on another LS1 Camaro that's in great shape. Low miles (74k) and pretty much bone stock. The only issue I've found is that the driver side window loves to go down, but not back up. ****.

Just so you know, I did check the windows before I bought the vehicle. They both went down and up. On the way home, I made the mistake of putting the window down for a second and it wouldn't go back up, so I froze myself.

Got home, and took the switch panel out and unplugged then replugged the switch and managed to get the window back up. Took the car to get an alignment/balance at the local shop and told them not to touch the window and of course they did. After using my reseating method, the window still wouldn't go up, so I made them manually put it up.

What I'm wondering, is if I throw a new switch in there, will it fix the problem you think? I don't want to put it in and then try to put the window up/down and it get stuck down again.

NOTE: The passenger side window works fine from both switches. The riverside only goes down, and when you try to press up it acts like it's draining the power from everything else (the radio turns off, the battery gauge dips, and the lights dim) but when I reseated the plug and it worked, nothing dimmed or anything. So I'm lead to believe it isn't a short in a wire (praying) but maybe you guys know better than me.

ROCNDAV

iTrader: (100)

Here's a link to a schematic of the window system.

It's from a 95, but they're the same

http://shbox.com/1/pwr_window_schematic.jpg

JOHNNY59

iTrader: (398)

99.9% your window motor is on its way out! time for a new one.

Fracture

iTrader: (5)

Well according to the car fax, the driverside window motor was done around 35-40k miles. Which wasn't too long ago, being that I have 74k miles. They can go bad that quick?

chrysler kid

iTrader: (14)

Yes they can go bad that quickly if they are a remanufactured unit. Purchase a new motor from amazon or rock auto.com.

Should be easy to replace if they replaced it before. The holes should already be cut in the door to access the motor

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

Classic failure of the thermal cut-off in the motor. Go with the new Dorman design for your next motor and it should last longer for you.

Fracture

iTrader: (5)

Took a look at it today and the motor has clearly previously been replaced, making this next replacement much easier. However, it seems to me that a little bit of water got in between the door panels/where the motor is (the unit felt like it has water on it and it had been raining hard before I checked it).

So I'm thinking weather stripping somewhere is letting water in and shorting the motor out? Or is this a normal thing

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

The inside of the door is designed to be "wet" and is not a watertight compartment. That is why the inside (dry side) of the door is lined with a vapor barrier (plastic) and there is a drain hole in the bottom of the inner door cavity.

Getting water/rust in the old style motor is a common problem. The new Doorman design is advertised to be much better sealed against this kind of thing.

Fracture

iTrader: (5)

Alrighty then. Lol
Thank you guys for helping me out. I'll grab a dorman motor from Auto Zone tomorrow

fruitsalad

iTrader: (5)

While we're discussing windows, to obviate the need for a new thread: My driver's side window switch does nothing at all when pressed, no matter how hard. No clicking, buzzing, etc. I bought a new Dorman motor, but before I rip my door apart, could this be just a switch issue?

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

It can always be possible. For the OP, a switch problem that gives the described behavior is highly unlikely. For your situation, its a little more likely. Having the motor is good - you can just test the motor connector before you do the swap to make sure you see power.

These motors fail in a number of different ways. (One of them is full-dead, up and down.)

Fracture

iTrader: (5)

Update: I got done replacing the motor (what a headache) and it seems that it's still iffy about when it wants to go up. When I press up on the window switch, it still does the "drain voltage" **** and makes the radio turn off if I hold it long enough. But if I do the same to the passenger side, it just doesn't do anything if the windows all the way up.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

Is this only when the window is all the way up? Or does it happen as the window is in the act of going up?

Your switch wiring looks good. One thing you might do is test the switch just to make sure its good:
- Take the passenger side switch panel off.
- Plug it in to the driver's side on the left side of the connector.
- See if the passenger side switch (installed on the driver's side for the driver's side motor) exhibits the same behavior

You might also take a peek under the driver's side lower IP panel and see if a previous owner has done any back woods wiring in that area. All of the driver's side window wiring passes through that neighborhood on its way to the express down module, which sits in a plastic pocket on the side of the tunnel.

Fracture

iTrader: (5)

The switch does that when the windows up (I don't want to risk putting the window down and it not going back up), but did it before when the old motor was in and the glass was half way down-all the way down and it still did the voltage dip when up was pressed.

I'll try to switch trick when I get a chance.

IP panel?

fruitsalad

iTrader: (5)

Mine turned out to be the motor. Swapped the Dorman in and this is the first time I've ever seen my window go down.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

Hummm. This is odd. It seems that when the internal cutoff inside the motor is kicking in (or should kick in) you are getting the problem. It should cut the circuit completely. This is with the new Dorman brand motor? (Trying the switch thing should be interesting and will hopefully put that possibility out of the running.)

It's the horizontal black plastic panel under the dash and above the pedals.