Drivers Side Window Problems...
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From: Nashville, TN
Drivers Side Window Problems... Finally decided to dig into why the front of my drivers side window is sinking a little bit...I knew it was going to be one of 3 things based on what I have read about this problem.
the design flaw has officially bit me...it looks like somebody "probably the only previous owner" attempted to put some bolts in place of the rivets but its not doing a great job of holding the weight...probably because they used little bolts with no support...............................any ideas on how I can tackle this? I was thinking about getting some giant washers to offset the weight and spread it out more, but Im not sure that will work long term...they are hanging on by a thread right now. also, if I remove those two bolts that are tearing away the fiberglass, is my window going to fall? Also, does anybody make a metal plate that you can drop in on top of the fiberglass so you can distribute the weight?
Thanks...
the design flaw has officially bit me...it looks like somebody "probably the only previous owner" attempted to put some bolts in place of the rivets but its not doing a great job of holding the weight...probably because they used little bolts with no support...............................any ideas on how I can tackle this? I was thinking about getting some giant washers to offset the weight and spread it out more, but Im not sure that will work long term...they are hanging on by a thread right now. also, if I remove those two bolts that are tearing away the fiberglass, is my window going to fall? Also, does anybody make a metal plate that you can drop in on top of the fiberglass so you can distribute the weight?
Thanks...
Thread Starter
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Joined: May 2005
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From: Nashville, TN
i've found a boat load of fixes...some use washers, some use a metal plate, etc...my question is, if I take those two bolts out that are pulling on the fiberglass is the window going to fall? I can figure out a fix...but will the window fall down if those bolts fall out? are they holding in the motor or the regulator?
This thread has your solution: https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...-included.html
Once you put in a plate, it shouldn't matter too much what you use to attach the regulator since it will no longer be bearing directly on the skin.
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From: Nashville, TN
It's not a design flaw, but definitely an issue of improper maintenance. GM warns specifically in their factory service manuals not to do this. GM supplies a special rivet, designed for use on the composite door skin.
This thread has your solution: https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...-included.html
Once you put in a plate, it shouldn't matter too much what you use to attach the regulator since it will no longer be bearing directly on the skin.
This thread has your solution: https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...-included.html
Once you put in a plate, it shouldn't matter too much what you use to attach the regulator since it will no longer be bearing directly on the skin.
Kinda. In your picture, you can take the four bolts out without problem because there is a "hook" going through one of the holes. (If you look at autogeek23's pictures, that hook is not engaged - in the hold between the top two rivet holes.)
The factory procedure for installing/removing the regulator and motor assembly calls for letting the regulator rest on that hook while the rivets are secured/unsecured.
That being said, if you want to remove the regulator from the door completely, there are some other safety/technical precautions you need to undertake. The regulator is spring loaded and balanced by the weight of the glass. So, when the regulator comes out, the spring has to be locked and the glass otherwise supported.
For the plate repair, you should be able to rest the whole thing on that hook and be fine. For any future motor replacements, you'll want to undertake the shbox method. (Instead of removing the regulator.) So, if you put in a plate, I'd recommend pre-drilling it and the door for future motor replacements.
The factory procedure for installing/removing the regulator and motor assembly calls for letting the regulator rest on that hook while the rivets are secured/unsecured.
That being said, if you want to remove the regulator from the door completely, there are some other safety/technical precautions you need to undertake. The regulator is spring loaded and balanced by the weight of the glass. So, when the regulator comes out, the spring has to be locked and the glass otherwise supported.
For the plate repair, you should be able to rest the whole thing on that hook and be fine. For any future motor replacements, you'll want to undertake the shbox method. (Instead of removing the regulator.) So, if you put in a plate, I'd recommend pre-drilling it and the door for future motor replacements.
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Thread Starter
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: May 2005
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From: Nashville, TN
Kinda. In your picture, you can take the four bolts out without problem because there is a "hook" going through one of the holes. (If you look at autogeek23's pictures, that hook is not engaged - in the hold between the top two rivet holes.)
The factory procedure for installing/removing the regulator and motor assembly calls for letting the regulator rest on that hook while the rivets are secured/unsecured.
That being said, if you want to remove the regulator from the door completely, there are some other safety/technical precautions you need to undertake. The regulator is spring loaded and balanced by the weight of the glass. So, when the regulator comes out, the spring has to be locked and the glass otherwise supported.
For the plate repair, you should be able to rest the whole thing on that hook and be fine. For any future motor replacements, you'll want to undertake the shbox method. (Instead of removing the regulator.) So, if you put in a plate, I'd recommend pre-drilling it and the door for future motor replacements.
The factory procedure for installing/removing the regulator and motor assembly calls for letting the regulator rest on that hook while the rivets are secured/unsecured.
That being said, if you want to remove the regulator from the door completely, there are some other safety/technical precautions you need to undertake. The regulator is spring loaded and balanced by the weight of the glass. So, when the regulator comes out, the spring has to be locked and the glass otherwise supported.
For the plate repair, you should be able to rest the whole thing on that hook and be fine. For any future motor replacements, you'll want to undertake the shbox method. (Instead of removing the regulator.) So, if you put in a plate, I'd recommend pre-drilling it and the door for future motor replacements.
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Manipulating the glass will get those in to the correct positions. (This is probably a two person job.) You may have to roll the window down a little bit, which should give you more room to play with the glass.
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From: Nashville, TN
yea im thinking i'll need another set of hands as well...thanks for the info and the help.
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That being said, if you want to remove the regulator from the door completely, there are some other safety/technical precautions you need to undertake. The regulator is spring loaded and balanced by the weight of the glass. So, when the regulator comes out, the spring has to be locked and the glass otherwise supported.