Upgrades for running cooler motor?
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From: Baytown, Texas
Upgrades for running cooler motor? I need some advice to get my car running cooler. It's a 98 TA with a 408 stroker, stock radiator, stock water pump, and 160 thermostat. With the AC turned off, it normally stays around 180, but with the AC turned on and in city driving, it goes up to halfway(210) and a bit higher.
What can I upgrade to make it run cool even with the AC turned on?
What can I upgrade to make it run cool even with the AC turned on?
I'd recommend both suggestions above. Why spend big $$$ on an engine and not keep it cool? It's cheap insurance. Get a nice radiator, be cool would be great, and good fans, and possibly a manual switch, if it can't be programmed to kick on at a lower temp.
Keep in mind: a radiator will keep the car when it's moving. Fans keep it cool when stopped or in traffic. You need both to have peace of mind.
Keep in mind: a radiator will keep the car when it's moving. Fans keep it cool when stopped or in traffic. You need both to have peace of mind.
I need some advice to get my car running cooler. It's a 98 TA with a 408 stroker, stock radiator, stock water pump, and 160 thermostat. With the AC turned off, it normally stays around 180, but with the AC turned on and in city driving, it goes up to halfway(210) and a bit higher.
What can I upgrade to make it run cool even with the AC turned on?
What can I upgrade to make it run cool even with the AC turned on?
The number one reason a perfectly operating factory cooling system is not cooling adequately........the front of the condenser is packed with dirt and debris over time. It kills both the normal airflow through it and FOR YOUR ISSUE it kills the ability of the condenser to keep itself from overheating with the a/c on. Then that HOT air slams right into the radiator.....and that's what causes the overheat. When you turn the a/c off that overheated condenser cools down and then your temps drop drastically.
I have a thread from many years ago showing how this looks..........I'll try to find it.
Here it is: I would do this little cleaning......remove the condenser and clean it. Or just install a new one. You have to evacuate the R134 and then take it out. Then install it after cleaning or install the new condenser. It will run cool......
Buying an aftermarket radiator actually won't do anything unless you totally custom build a new shroud and better fans.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...light=overheat
.......but if you do decide to get an aftermarket cooler, build a custom shroud and make sure you re-install the black plastic air deflector in front of the condenser. Most people think you can toss that piece.....if you do you will overheat.
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Last edited by LS6427; Apr 15, 2014 at 06:48 AM.
Oh.....also.....a 180 t-stat will make the engine run cooler than a 160 t-stat. The longer the hot water can stay in the radiator to have more time to cool.......the cooler your engine will run.
I went from a 160 to a 180 and it made an immediate and big difference........
160 t-stats do not have enough CLOSED time.....in fact they will get to a point where they will never fully close.......and now you have hot water continually circulating and getting hotter and hotter......thats the point of no return. The t-stat must be allowed to FULLY close for a long enough time so the HOT coolant has time to cool off before. Going back into the engine.
You have to stay ahead of the heat......once the system falls behind....it's all over......OVERHEAT.
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I went from a 160 to a 180 and it made an immediate and big difference........
160 t-stats do not have enough CLOSED time.....in fact they will get to a point where they will never fully close.......and now you have hot water continually circulating and getting hotter and hotter......thats the point of no return. The t-stat must be allowed to FULLY close for a long enough time so the HOT coolant has time to cool off before. Going back into the engine.
You have to stay ahead of the heat......once the system falls behind....it's all over......OVERHEAT.
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From: Baytown, Texas
Awesome, I'll definitely start by going with a 180 thermostat and cleaning or getting a new condenser.
I'll start saving for a Be Cool radiator as well. Summer heat in south Texas is high and AC is a must!
I'm also gonna hook up the wideband and take a look at the A/F ratio to make sure it's right.
I'll start saving for a Be Cool radiator as well. Summer heat in south Texas is high and AC is a must!
I'm also gonna hook up the wideband and take a look at the A/F ratio to make sure it's right.
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Verdad Gallardo Oh.....also.....a 180 t-stat will make the engine run cooler than a 160 t-stat. The longer the hot water can stay in the radiator to have more time to cool.......the cooler your engine will run.
I went from a 160 to a 180 and it made an immediate and big difference........
160 t-stats do not have enough CLOSED time.....in fact they will get to a point where they will never fully close.......and now you have hot water continually circulating and getting hotter and hotter......thats the point of no return. The t-stat must be allowed to FULLY close for a long enough time so the HOT coolant has time to cool off before. Going back into the engine.
You have to stay ahead of the heat......once the system falls behind....it's all over......OVERHEAT.
.
I went from a 160 to a 180 and it made an immediate and big difference........
160 t-stats do not have enough CLOSED time.....in fact they will get to a point where they will never fully close.......and now you have hot water continually circulating and getting hotter and hotter......thats the point of no return. The t-stat must be allowed to FULLY close for a long enough time so the HOT coolant has time to cool off before. Going back into the engine.
You have to stay ahead of the heat......once the system falls behind....it's all over......OVERHEAT.
.
this can be clearly proven by running without a thermostat for a day or 2, it will take FAR longer to heat of (if it ever reaches temp), but will not run hot unless there is something else wrong with the system.
This is based on my personal experience over the last week and a half, I'm in the process of cleaning all the dex-cool sludge from my long ignored cooling system and to make the almost daily flushing/back-flushing routine go quicker I have been running without a thermostat for over a week now, today is a very cool day (around 50* Fahrenheit outside) and after the 25 minute drive to work I was sitting at or below the 1/4 mark on the gauge (so about 150*), I have to sit still for a few minutes after driving to allow it to heat up higher, but it will reach the normal (just a little below the 210 mark) on the 70-85* days, but not once has it even touched the 210 mark.
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I have to disagree with this, the thermostats job is not to hold water in the radiator for cooling but to hold water in the block till it reaches the "operating temp" and then allow cooling by allowing flow into the radiator.
this can be clearly proven by running without a thermostat for a day or 2, it will take FAR longer to heat of (if it ever reaches temp), but will not run hot unless there is something else wrong with the system.
This is based on my personal experience over the last week and a half, I'm in the process of cleaning all the dex-cool sludge from my long ignored cooling system and to make the almost daily flushing/back-flushing routine go quicker I have been running without a thermostat for over a week now, today is a very cool day (around 50* Fahrenheit outside) and after the 25 minute drive to work I was sitting at or below the 1/4 mark on the gauge (so about 150*), I have to sit still for a few minutes after driving to allow it to heat up higher, but it will reach the normal (just a little below the 210 mark) on the 70-85* days, but not once has it even touched the 210 mark.
this can be clearly proven by running without a thermostat for a day or 2, it will take FAR longer to heat of (if it ever reaches temp), but will not run hot unless there is something else wrong with the system.
This is based on my personal experience over the last week and a half, I'm in the process of cleaning all the dex-cool sludge from my long ignored cooling system and to make the almost daily flushing/back-flushing routine go quicker I have been running without a thermostat for over a week now, today is a very cool day (around 50* Fahrenheit outside) and after the 25 minute drive to work I was sitting at or below the 1/4 mark on the gauge (so about 150*), I have to sit still for a few minutes after driving to allow it to heat up higher, but it will reach the normal (just a little below the 210 mark) on the 70-85* days, but not once has it even touched the 210 mark.
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From: Bucks County, Pa.
Went through the same process when I first got my z28 replaced the thermostat and no difference took a closer look and my radiator was about 70% clogged with sand and other crap try getting a long skinny air gun for an air compressor and blow it out opposite the air flow (towards the front of your car) see if that works it did for me.
Just found one on amazon 24'' aluminum air blow gun $9.99 same as the one I bought at harbor freight you can even bend it slightly to get in there better and get as much gunk out as possible easiest and cheapest way if its clogged.
I have to disagree with this, the thermostats job is not to hold water in the radiator for cooling but to hold water in the block till it reaches the "operating temp" and then allow cooling by allowing flow into the radiator.
this can be clearly proven by running without a thermostat for a day or 2, it will take FAR longer to heat of (if it ever reaches temp), but will not run hot unless there is something else wrong with the system.
This is based on my personal experience over the last week and a half, I'm in the process of cleaning all the dex-cool sludge from my long ignored cooling system and to make the almost daily flushing/back-flushing routine go quicker I have been running without a thermostat for over a week now, today is a very cool day (around 50* Fahrenheit outside) and after the 25 minute drive to work I was sitting at or below the 1/4 mark on the gauge (so about 150*), I have to sit still for a few minutes after driving to allow it to heat up higher, but it will reach the normal (just a little below the 210 mark) on the 70-85* days, but not once has it even touched the 210 mark.
this can be clearly proven by running without a thermostat for a day or 2, it will take FAR longer to heat of (if it ever reaches temp), but will not run hot unless there is something else wrong with the system.
This is based on my personal experience over the last week and a half, I'm in the process of cleaning all the dex-cool sludge from my long ignored cooling system and to make the almost daily flushing/back-flushing routine go quicker I have been running without a thermostat for over a week now, today is a very cool day (around 50* Fahrenheit outside) and after the 25 minute drive to work I was sitting at or below the 1/4 mark on the gauge (so about 150*), I have to sit still for a few minutes after driving to allow it to heat up higher, but it will reach the normal (just a little below the 210 mark) on the 70-85* days, but not once has it even touched the 210 mark.
The tstat allows the engine to get hot initially......but after that, it's purpose is to keep everything constant.....and the only way temps can be kept constant is by stopping the flow and allowing the HOT coolant to cool down by sitting in the radiator. It uses cool coolant at the end of one full rotation of coolant to close it and stop the flow so that new cooler coolant stays in the engine/heads.......while that old HOT coolant stops and sits in the radiator.
And a 180 tstat instead of using my 160 tstat has kept my average temps down......with my aluminum engine and with my new iron block.
I guess they all react a little differently.......
My buddies airboat uses TWO stock SBC radiators in series.......because he has zero ram air help like we do with our cars to cool the radiators......so his HOT coolant coming off his 427ci SBC gets twice the sit time and with two pusher fans doing all of the cooling. But he MUST have a tstat so the coolant stops and sits to be cooled off before re-entering the block/heads.....otherwise he would overheat in 15 minutes. He's tried it.....it doesn't work.
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i just ordered this one.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-1998-1999-2000-2001-2001-LS1-Camaro-Aluminum-Radiator-HD-Auto-/321409814100?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ad5848e54&vxp=mtr
Now, I'm gonna look for a much better tranny cooler cuz the one it currently has seems quite small to me.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-1998-1999-2000-2001-2001-LS1-Camaro-Aluminum-Radiator-HD-Auto-/321409814100?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ad5848e54&vxp=mtr
Now, I'm gonna look for a much better tranny cooler cuz the one it currently has seems quite small to me.
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From: Tulsa, OK
I also say that statement was about 180 from what i've learned & with experienced. In other cars i've had I ran no thermostat & the engine always ran the coolest. I mean just think where the heat comes from, the engine, so not flowing is keeping hot coolant in your engine=overheat.
I would argue against that, during the 2 MONTHS I ran without one I ran so cool at some times I could put my hand on the block and keep it there after driving for 30 minutes, just popping the hood it was noticeably cooler under the hood vs. when I had my 180 stat in the car.
i just ordered this one.
New 1998 1999 2000 2001 2001 LS1 Camaro Aluminum Radiator HD Auto | eBay
Now, I'm gonna look for a much better tranny cooler cuz the one it currently has seems quite small to me.
New 1998 1999 2000 2001 2001 LS1 Camaro Aluminum Radiator HD Auto | eBay
Now, I'm gonna look for a much better tranny cooler cuz the one it currently has seems quite small to me.
Did you read the warranty......Lifetime year.......((what does that mean though...?))
All of our radiators carry a lifetime year warranty against defects. We will replace your radiator within this time frame for any leaks caused by defects.
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