2000TA headlight grinding noise
2000TA headlight grinding noise Yep, I have the issue with the headlight grinding whent the pop ups are closed.
Pretty sure it's the gears. So my question is there any guide to replacing them? What is recommended? Flipping them, replacing them OEM or going brass?
Thanks.
Pretty sure it's the gears. So my question is there any guide to replacing them? What is recommended? Flipping them, replacing them OEM or going brass?
Thanks.
Found this thread. Amazing what can happen when you do a search.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/pontiac-f...s-go-here.html
Still, any opinions on replacing vs the 180° fix?
https://ls1tech.com/forums/pontiac-f...s-go-here.html
Still, any opinions on replacing vs the 180° fix?
Buy two new motors....install brass gears in each. Install them. Enjoy a decade of use without issues. Sell the used motors on ebay.
Also, make sure you didn't lose a white plastic bump stop cover on either side......That can make them grind on BOTH sides, even if you just lose one on one side.
These headlight motors are like people with schizophrenia.
.....I did a 180 flip fix of my plastic gear about 7-8 years ago, its still perfect.
.
Also, make sure you didn't lose a white plastic bump stop cover on either side......That can make them grind on BOTH sides, even if you just lose one on one side.
These headlight motors are like people with schizophrenia.
.....I did a 180 flip fix of my plastic gear about 7-8 years ago, its still perfect.
.
I did the 180 fix on mine and it didn't last 5 up/down cycles before it started grinding again and to add insult to injury I now had to start flipping on the lights and running up there to lift the driver light the last .5-1 inch to get it raised up right, I went with the Rodney Dickman kit for 79 bucks (2 years ago next month), very easy to do and his T-brace (something missing from the other versions) effectively clamps that area of the headlight motor so there is no worry of it popping off the epoxied on cover and losing the gear.
I did the 180 fix on mine and it didn't last 5 up/down cycles before it started grinding again and to add insult to injury I now had to start flipping on the lights and running up there to lift the driver light the last .5-1 inch to get it raised up right, I went with the Rodney Dickman kit for 79 bucks (2 years ago next month), very easy to do and his T-brace (something missing from the other versions) effectively clamps that area of the headlight motor so there is no worry of it popping off the epoxied on cover and losing the gear.
His kits are the better ones....
.
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I only know a couple people who have used the brass gear.....which ruined the worm gear. But it was probably because there was play in the assembly when put back together.
Not sure how the worm gear can hurt that brass......theres quite a few people I know that have had the brass gears for over 12 years now. Bfranker brass gears......
.
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Verdad Gallardo Have you heard of anyone whos brass gear also stripped down to a bald spot....?
I only know a couple people who have used the brass gear.....which ruined the worm gear. But it was probably because there was play in the assembly when put back together.
Not sure how the worm gear can hurt that brass......theres quite a few people I know that have had the brass gears for over 12 years now. Bfranker brass gears......
.
I only know a couple people who have used the brass gear.....which ruined the worm gear. But it was probably because there was play in the assembly when put back together.
Not sure how the worm gear can hurt that brass......theres quite a few people I know that have had the brass gears for over 12 years now. Bfranker brass gears......
.
Do what floats your boat, if age is the requirement for the fix then my trans am still has the factory gears on it that haven't even been flipped yet
Have you heard of anyone whos brass gear also stripped down to a bald spot....?
I only know a couple people who have used the brass gear.....which ruined the worm gear. But it was probably because there was play in the assembly when put back together.
Not sure how the worm gear can hurt that brass......theres quite a few people I know that have had the brass gears for over 12 years now. Bfranker brass gears......
.
I only know a couple people who have used the brass gear.....which ruined the worm gear. But it was probably because there was play in the assembly when put back together.
Not sure how the worm gear can hurt that brass......theres quite a few people I know that have had the brass gears for over 12 years now. Bfranker brass gears......
.
I've seen one picture on hear a few years back where someone had stripped a brass gear, but when you looked at it it was on the outer edge of the gear and not the middle, this would imply either the worm gear/electric motor was loose relative to the brass gear (the Rodney Dickman instructions say how to tighten that looseness up) or the epoxy had failed and the gear was coming unseated, this was one of the things I liked about the RD gear kit is the T-brace prevents that separation.
.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1538438
You'll notice I posted in that thread as well.
If you want to waste $60 on the brass gear kit to realize the motor and unit were really the problem and then buy another new motor because you're having the same problem again feel free but the best and cheapest solution is a lifetime warranty part at your closest auto part retailer
Last edited by chrysler kid; Jul 14, 2014 at 06:26 PM.
^^^^^ and this would be a LOOSE ASSEMBLY between the metal gear and the worm gear/electric motor sections, see how as you go down the gear the grinding shifts to the left, that is a clear indication of either the worm gear half the body having play or the epoxied housing not being supported properly and allowed to flex pushing the gear off center.
the major problem with the motor/gear is there is to much play between the worm and plastic gears. I flipped the gear 180 and use a wave washer between the shaft and cover. have not had any problems with the three I fixed!