4Th Gen Power Windows acting funny...normal problem?
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From: Spring / Sealy, TX
4Th Gen Power Windows acting funny...normal problem? I just bought a cheap 4th gen to use as a track car until my actual track car is done, anyways it's a 99 Camaro Z28, and the drivers power window worked once, the passenger window from drivers control panel works 100% randomly, pass window from pass control panel works fine every time.
I replaced the switch, and fuses, and nothing changed. Just curious if 4th gens have any cliche issue that causes this before I invest too much time trying to track it down, I know a lot of platforms have quirky issues that are normal, or components that wear out and always cause the same issue on a lot of cars.
Just curious before I go look into it.
I replaced the switch, and fuses, and nothing changed. Just curious if 4th gens have any cliche issue that causes this before I invest too much time trying to track it down, I know a lot of platforms have quirky issues that are normal, or components that wear out and always cause the same issue on a lot of cars.
Just curious before I go look into it.
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2004
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the OEM power window motors themselves die. I replaced both in my 96, both in someone elses 95 (i think) and one in my 2002 with 18k miles. I know thats a common issue.
To check the motor, you'd need to take off the interior door panel, and check voltage at the plug. If you get your 12V, then your switches and relays are probably good, and you need a new motor.
don't know that that is the problem you are describing, but maybe on the driver side? hard to say! good luck!
To check the motor, you'd need to take off the interior door panel, and check voltage at the plug. If you get your 12V, then your switches and relays are probably good, and you need a new motor.
don't know that that is the problem you are describing, but maybe on the driver side? hard to say! good luck!
Which switch?
Your problem sounds like it could be a bad passenger window switch (on the driver's side) and a bad driver's side motor - or bigger problems with both switches on the drivers side.
It could be a ton of other things ^ but those would be the most common.
A dead motor is the most common culprit for your driver's side issue, but since you don't know the history of the car, I'd recommend getting a wiring schematic for the windows and testing everything out from the driver side panel in order to make a more definite diagnosis.
Your problem sounds like it could be a bad passenger window switch (on the driver's side) and a bad driver's side motor - or bigger problems with both switches on the drivers side.
It could be a ton of other things ^ but those would be the most common.
A dead motor is the most common culprit for your driver's side issue, but since you don't know the history of the car, I'd recommend getting a wiring schematic for the windows and testing everything out from the driver side panel in order to make a more definite diagnosis.
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From: Spring / Sealy, TX
Passenger side window works fine, from passenger control panel on pass door, and the passenger window works intermittent from the drivers panel, the drivers window doesn't work when I've tried.
This indicates there is clearly a breakdown in the circuit between the drivers door switch and stuff, I just didn't know where all these came together, I'm not a wiring exp4rt and don't want to pretend to be one.
Didn't know if people had similar issues. I would have just replaced the motor but the intermittent pass window control from drivers switch panel had me wondering.
This indicates there is clearly a breakdown in the circuit between the drivers door switch and stuff, I just didn't know where all these came together, I'm not a wiring exp4rt and don't want to pretend to be one.
Didn't know if people had similar issues. I would have just replaced the motor but the intermittent pass window control from drivers switch panel had me wondering.
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Verdad Gallardo The wiring schematics are copywritten, so I can't share them but you may be able to find them "around."
In a nutshell, the passenger window motor is wired directly to the passenger side switch. That switch is then directly wired through the switch on the driver's side. The driver's window motor is wired directly to the express down module and that device is wired back to the other switch on the driver's side.
Your symptoms will be tough to equate directly to other peoples' experiences because it looks like you most likely have two separate problems. One for the driver's side and the other for the passenger's side.
In a nutshell, the passenger window motor is wired directly to the passenger side switch. That switch is then directly wired through the switch on the driver's side. The driver's window motor is wired directly to the express down module and that device is wired back to the other switch on the driver's side.
Your symptoms will be tough to equate directly to other peoples' experiences because it looks like you most likely have two separate problems. One for the driver's side and the other for the passenger's side.
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From: Spring / Sealy, TX
I'm just going to put a MoTeC PDM in it and call it a day.
#wiringcostsmorethanthecar #yolo
I was just hoping like 20 people would call me dumb, tell me to search while telling me it was a common issue and to replace a component. Sounds like I have to remember how to work on cars if I want my window to roll down. The struggle. Appreciate those of you who chimed in! It's not what I wanted to hear because I'm lazy but it's data to make a decision off of!
#wiringcostsmorethanthecar #yolo
I was just hoping like 20 people would call me dumb, tell me to search while telling me it was a common issue and to replace a component. Sounds like I have to remember how to work on cars if I want my window to roll down. The struggle. Appreciate those of you who chimed in! It's not what I wanted to hear because I'm lazy but it's data to make a decision off of!
On The Tree
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The motors usually will "die" so you could just replace them if you want and have a fast new motor, but what happens a lot of time is the shitty resistor meant to stop the window when pressure is applied (to stop you from cutting your arm off) gets very weak and the weight of the window will stop it from going down/up all the way, usually up. You can take the motor out and bridge the resistor if you don't want to buy a new motor, this should work but don't expect it to be a speed demon. OR you could buy a newer faster window motor.
The above issue introduces stress through bolts that replaced rivets in the door, but this is a situation most want to avoid and is a much harder issue to deal with vs. a motor replacement.
On The Tree
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I don't recommend bypassing the resistor because it can add stress to the door and lead to things like this: https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...rd-2001-a.html
The above issue introduces stress through bolts that replaced rivets in the door, but this is a situation most want to avoid and is a much harder issue to deal with vs. a motor replacement.
The above issue introduces stress through bolts that replaced rivets in the door, but this is a situation most want to avoid and is a much harder issue to deal with vs. a motor replacement.
Be careful when you do. If you haven't read the regulator removal procedure, you should watch out for two things:
- With the regulator removed, the glass will drop. Best to have another person help when you take it out. GM calls for wedging the glass stationary in the door, but that's not so easy to do.
- When the regulator is out of the car, the only thing that holds its (very powerful) spring in place is the motor. If you remove the motor, you'll need to put a bolt through the holes in the regulator to keep the spring from exploding. (This type of thing can easily chop off a finger, etc.) As well, who knows what the PO did to the car, so I'd also recommend checking to make sure the motor is secure to the regulator before taking it out of the door.
- With the regulator removed, the glass will drop. Best to have another person help when you take it out. GM calls for wedging the glass stationary in the door, but that's not so easy to do.
- When the regulator is out of the car, the only thing that holds its (very powerful) spring in place is the motor. If you remove the motor, you'll need to put a bolt through the holes in the regulator to keep the spring from exploding. (This type of thing can easily chop off a finger, etc.) As well, who knows what the PO did to the car, so I'd also recommend checking to make sure the motor is secure to the regulator before taking it out of the door.
On The Tree
Joined: May 2014
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Be careful when you do. If you haven't read the regulator removal procedure, you should watch out for two things:
- With the regulator removed, the glass will drop. Best to have another person help when you take it out. GM calls for wedging the glass stationary in the door, but that's not so easy to do.
- When the regulator is out of the car, the only thing that holds its (very powerful) spring in place is the motor. If you remove the motor, you'll need to put a bolt through the holes in the regulator to keep the spring from exploding. (This type of thing can easily chop off a finger, etc.) As well, who knows what the PO did to the car, so I'd also recommend checking to make sure the motor is secure to the regulator before taking it out of the door.
- With the regulator removed, the glass will drop. Best to have another person help when you take it out. GM calls for wedging the glass stationary in the door, but that's not so easy to do.
- When the regulator is out of the car, the only thing that holds its (very powerful) spring in place is the motor. If you remove the motor, you'll need to put a bolt through the holes in the regulator to keep the spring from exploding. (This type of thing can easily chop off a finger, etc.) As well, who knows what the PO did to the car, so I'd also recommend checking to make sure the motor is secure to the regulator before taking it out of the door.
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There is NO resistor in the motor............... there is a circuit breaker limiter in the motor. What happens is the BIMETAL circuit breaker heater design starts to break down and no longer closes. Then the circuit is open and the motor won't run. REPLACE the motor. Jumping out the circuit breaker is asking for more trouble.
The GM Factory Service Manual has a good proceedure but no illustrations. When you get the regulator out, you can see the problem. You'll just need to plug the unit in to move the reg so the holes in the arms align ao you can lock them together.
Or... you can wait until your plate is in and use the shbox method for the motor replacement. The weight of the glass keeps the regulator spring tame
Or... you can wait until your plate is in and use the shbox method for the motor replacement. The weight of the glass keeps the regulator spring tame