Huge power steering leak!
Huge power steering leak! Hey guys I've been having a slow leak out of one of my hoses but as its Christmas season my money was spent on gifts, groceries and gas for traveling to see family. So, I was ignoring the leak until the holidays passed. But today at work I found a huge puddle under my car, found that it was power steering fluid. But this was coming out of the boot on the passenger side of the rack and pinion. So I'm guessing I have a blown seal. My questions are is there an aftermarket replacement rack and pinion that is better than factory that you guys would recommend or should I just stick with factory? And for factory should I just order it from a parts store? I'm thinking about doing the cooling system that is stickied here too but I need to figure out how much this is going to run me first. Thanks guys.
12 Second Club
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 4,273
Likes: 0
From: Bucks County, Pa.
I've searched and searched and NO ONE offers a quicker ratio, road race style rack for our cars that does not entail a complete, tube framed rebuild of the front clip! 
Most just go with a new (IF you can find one), or remanned AC Delco rack (from Rock Auto/GM Parts Direct/etc.), or have their factory rack rebuilt by either The Rack Doctors, or Turn One Performance (IF they can afford the down time on their not daily driver toys
).
Most just go with a new (IF you can find one), or remanned AC Delco rack (from Rock Auto/GM Parts Direct/etc.), or have their factory rack rebuilt by either The Rack Doctors, or Turn One Performance (IF they can afford the down time on their not daily driver toys
). I've searched and searched and NO ONE offers a quicker ratio, road race style rack for our cars that does not entail a complete, tube framed rebuild of the front clip!
Most just go with a new (IF you can find one), or remanned AC Delco rack (from Rock Auto/GM Parts Direct/etc.), or have their factory rack rebuilt by either The Rack Doctors, or Turn One Performance (IF they can afford the down time on their not daily driver toys ).
Most just go with a new (IF you can find one), or remanned AC Delco rack (from Rock Auto/GM Parts Direct/etc.), or have their factory rack rebuilt by either The Rack Doctors, or Turn One Performance (IF they can afford the down time on their not daily driver toys
). I replaced my stock rack this past summer with one I got from rock auto. I paid like $80 after the core and its been fine ever since. IIRC there are 2 different part numbers so make sure you get the right one. At the same time I repalced the pressure line since it was cheap and has to come off anyway.
Alright guys. So RackDoctor has Rack and Pinion setup for my car with FE2 suspension with new inner tie rods, new outer tie rods, lifetime warranty and a 65 dollar core charge for my old one. And they will send me a return shipping label. That's around $291 but once I send my current R&P to them I'll get $65 back so it will be around $230. Then the high pressure hose I can get from Oriellys for around $29.99. The low pressure hose is discontinued so I'm going to have to either take it to NAPA and have them duplicate it or try to fix it myself. Since it's the low pressure side it won't be too much of a problem. If anyone has tackled this before and has any tips of heads ups please let me know. Thanks guys!
Trending Topics
https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...placement.html
I'll be doing my entire system when the weather warms up in the spring,too cold here by Lake Erie.
A Rack Doctor rack has been sitting in the garage since May of 2013,had to replace the high pressure line in November of 2013,yet to order a TurnOne pump(mines been screaming for about a month now,tried the DexronVI fix to reduce the noise,didn't work,added an ounce of rearend gear lube and the screaming was reduced),got the KD 2897 pulley puller and installer set,looked at the 'troublesome'rack bolt for how to attack it.
I'll be doing my entire system when the weather warms up in the spring,too cold here by Lake Erie.
A Rack Doctor rack has been sitting in the garage since May of 2013,had to replace the high pressure line in November of 2013,yet to order a TurnOne pump(mines been screaming for about a month now,tried the DexronVI fix to reduce the noise,didn't work,added an ounce of rearend gear lube and the screaming was reduced),got the KD 2897 pulley puller and installer set,looked at the 'troublesome'rack bolt for how to attack it.
Last edited by FirstYrLS1Z; Jan 1, 2015 at 08:20 AM.
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Gas Monkey Built a 6-Wheel Ferrari Testarossa With a Corvette LT4 Engine
Verdad Gallardo
7 Most Reliable High-Performance Engines GM Has Ever Built
Verdad Gallardo
Amazing '71 Camaro Restomod Is Modern Muscle Car Under the Skin
Verdad Gallardo
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo Alright guys. So RackDoctor has Rack and Pinion setup for my car with FE2 suspension with new inner tie rods, new outer tie rods, lifetime warranty and a 65 dollar core charge for my old one. And they will send me a return shipping label. That's around $291 but once I send my current R&P to them I'll get $65 back so it will be around $230. Then the high pressure hose I can get from Oriellys for around $29.99. The low pressure hose is discontinued so I'm going to have to either take it to NAPA and have them duplicate it or try to fix it myself. Since it's the low pressure side it won't be too much of a problem. If anyone has tackled this before and has any tips of heads ups please let me know. Thanks guys!
You'll probably have to cut the bolt on the driver side that holds the rack in place because it hits the oil pan and won't come out. I replaced that bolt after I cut it and put it in upside down.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...placement.html
I'll be doing my entire system when the weather warms up in the spring,too cold here by Lake Erie.
A Rack Doctor rack has been sitting in the garage since May of 2013,had to replace the high pressure line in November of 2013,yet to order a TurnOne pump(mines been screaming for about a month now,tried the DexronVI fix to reduce the noise,didn't work,added an ounce of rearend gear lube and the screaming was reduced),got the KD 2897 pulley puller and installer set,looked at the 'troublesome'rack bolt for how to attack it.
I'll be doing my entire system when the weather warms up in the spring,too cold here by Lake Erie.
A Rack Doctor rack has been sitting in the garage since May of 2013,had to replace the high pressure line in November of 2013,yet to order a TurnOne pump(mines been screaming for about a month now,tried the DexronVI fix to reduce the noise,didn't work,added an ounce of rearend gear lube and the screaming was reduced),got the KD 2897 pulley puller and installer set,looked at the 'troublesome'rack bolt for how to attack it.
IMO you don't need to replace the low pressure hose unless you want to. I didn't and it's fine with the original one on there. While the rack is out it would be smart to put new tie rod ends on, and try to get your alignment as close as possible even tho you'll probably need one after you put it back in.
You'll probably have to cut the bolt on the driver side that holds the rack in place because it hits the oil pan and won't come out. I replaced that bolt after I cut it and put it in upside down.
You'll probably have to cut the bolt on the driver side that holds the rack in place because it hits the oil pan and won't come out. I replaced that bolt after I cut it and put it in upside down.
12 Second Club
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 4,273
Likes: 0
From: Bucks County, Pa.
I would try to do mine by myself as well, but I need to change the motor mounts anyway, so the engine has to be raised regardless, and I don't have the tools/facilities to do that, so might as well have a shop do it all at once and avoid the bolt decapitation.