Crank pulley/balancer noise. Replace?
Crank pulley/balancer noise. Replace? 2000 trams am , basically stock engine,with 98xxx miles. I have a ticking noise that I have now narrowed down to the crank pulley area . I get some noise on cold start from the accessories, slight chirp and related noises. I have greased all the pulleys and idlers. I also replaced both belts.The crank pulley seems to have a slight wobble only noticeable underneath it. The ticking seems to come right from behind it.Checked with a mech stethoscope and that is the area for sure. Tick tap is rpm dependent between 800 and 1400 rpm. Will replacing it help ,or it likely is something else? Thanks.
Last edited by celtsean; May 29, 2015 at 04:09 PM.
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Joined: Nov 2011
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From: Woodstock, GA
2000 trams am , basically stock engine,with 98xxx miles. I have a ticking noise that I have now narrowed down to the crank pulley area . I get some noise on cold start from the accessories, slight chirp and related noises. I have greased all the pulleys and idlers. I also replaced both belts.The crank pulley seems to have a slight wobble only noticeable underneath it. The ticking seems to come right from behind it.Checked with a mech stethoscope and that is the area for sure. Tick tap is rpm dependent between 800 and 1400 rpm. Will replacing it help ,or it likely is something else? Thanks.
Check your alternator, mine chirps cold but quiets up when warm. It charges well so I'm leaving it for now. It's located really close to the crank pulley. It only takes a few seconds to remove the main drive belt before a cold start to confirm before going through a balancer swap.
I have to get another torque wrench that will do that. I need a special tool right? My torque wrench goes to like 150 ft lbs. that is like 230 or 250. And that tool can I just put my car in 4th and use that clamping tool to lock it?
Last edited by celtsean; Jun 1, 2015 at 03:24 PM.
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Well I just checked it with car in gear on ramps and e brake on . My 150 ft lbs torque wrench moved it. So it must be loose . I'm kind of confused. I guess I should just order an arp bolt.
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Verdad Gallardo TECH Fanatic
Joined: Nov 2011
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From: Woodstock, GA
1. Used a proper installation tool that presses the pulley onto the crankshaft.
2. Torque to 250 ft/lbs? (check that) with original bolt. Then remove bolt.
3. Torque to 150 ft/lbs? (check that) with new bolt.
Double check the torque specs and get that new bolt. I'm not saying that fixes your original problem. Could come down to belt alignment issues, belt, bearing in a pulley. Remove belts to isolate if that's the issue.
No the process for a new bolt is to torque to 250 ft lbs to ensure the pulley is seated, nothing more. I like to heat the pulley in the oven at 230 degrees for about 20 min. At this point the balancer will just slip into the crank without any need for anything.
After that's done just follow the last part of the procedure which is tq the new bolt to 37ft lbs then turn an additional 140 degrees.
After that's done just follow the last part of the procedure which is tq the new bolt to 37ft lbs then turn an additional 140 degrees.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,367
Likes: 144
From: Woodstock, GA
No the process for a new bolt is to torque to 250 ft lbs to ensure the pulley is seated, nothing more. I like to heat the pulley in the oven at 230 degrees for about 20 min. At this point the balancer will just slip into the crank without any need for anything.
After that's done just follow the last part of the procedure which is tq the new bolt to 37ft lbs then turn an additional 140 degrees.
After that's done just follow the last part of the procedure which is tq the new bolt to 37ft lbs then turn an additional 140 degrees.