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A.I.R. system delete questions

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Old Apr 17, 2016 | 04:42 PM
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Default A.I.R. system delete questions

Is there any resistor which can be plugged into the air pump connector to keep the DTCs from setting, and the dash light from coming on when deleting the COMPLETE A.I.R. system??

Or will this not work because the 'stove pipe' valves always have a variable resistance to pressure, which in turn causes the pump motor to pull differing amounts of current/resistance (as well as the post catcon O2s not showing enough O2)?

Also, does everyone just cap off that port on the solenoid/valve mounted on the intake which connects to the port on top of the main A.I.R. valve/distributor (the round black thing that the hoses attach to), or should that port attach to something else???

I know EVERYONE just has a tuner 'write out' the whole system and DTCs (or does it themselves IF they have the tuning software systems), but this would be a temporary thing to keep that annoying light off UNTIL I can get the car re-tuned AFTER I do all of the top end/cam work it needs.

Thanks in advance.
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Old Apr 21, 2016 | 04:34 PM
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No lights, codes, or even pending A.I.R. system codes have shown up yet, so I'm guessing the last tuner just wrote the whole system out of the ECM (along with the EGR system) and did not inform me about it, since most seem to want this done??

Just how many start/run cycles, and/or miles and time would it take for even a pending code to show up IF the system were still in the computer, and the WHOLE A.I.R. system removed from the car?
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Old Apr 21, 2016 | 09:21 PM
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When I removed the system I never got a code either. The only thing I did was remove the system. Put a plug in the intake. And put the little vacuum tube on one of my intake bolts to plug that. Haven't ever thrown a air system code in three years. I used to get the o2 sensor not heating up fast enough code but I haven't gotten that in a year at least for whatever reason.
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Old Apr 23, 2016 | 06:13 PM
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Originally Posted by jaxcam02
When I removed the system I never got a code either. The only thing I did was remove the system. Put a plug in the intake. And put the little vacuum tube on one of my intake bolts to plug that. Haven't ever thrown a air system code in three years. I used to get the o2 sensor not heating up fast enough code but I haven't gotten that in a year at least for whatever reason.
Thanks.

It's strange in that some people who (have to due to state inspections) keep the whole AIR system intact and functional get the stove pipe valve codes, but yet when we REMOVE the WHOLE system, nothing.
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Old Apr 26, 2016 | 02:03 PM
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I removed everything including the pump when I removed mine and it threw a code immediately. Maybe those that aren't getting a code aren't removing the pump so the system still thinks everything's good?

For the vacuum line at the back of the intake mine actually plugged into a T. I removed the T and plugged the line coming from the interior for the heating/AC directly into the intake.
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Old Apr 26, 2016 | 04:11 PM
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Originally Posted by 01z28geek
I removed everything including the pump when I removed mine and it threw a code immediately. Maybe those that aren't getting a code aren't removing the pump so the system still thinks everything's good?
I took EVERYTHING even remotely having anything to do with the AIR system out of the car, INCLUDING the electric pump and mounting bracket.
I only covered/taped over the pump's harness connector plug, I did NOT install a resistor into it.

NO; codes, pending codes, or dash lights.

I'm guessing ALL of this system's DTCs along with ALL of the EGR system's DTCs were already written out of the ECM during the last tune.
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