chvycmaroz28

iTrader: (1)

When u cut the head off where u going at it from the front of k member or the rear? Like Was the sawzall pointing towards the front or rear of car

gongshow71

iTrader: (1)

If I remember correctly it was from the rear with the sawzall pointing towards the front of the car. I was holding the pliers on the bolt head from the front and my dad cut the bolt. Not saying you have to have two sets of hands but you'll figure that out once you get under the car.

heavychevy383

hey fellas... im fixin to tackle this job & i would like to use a nylon locknut, along with some red loctite (per others advice who have done this before) & i cant seem to find any post stating WHAT SIZE Nylon LockNut to use on the "problem" bolt? id like to go ahead & get it in hand now so im not on the hunt when ive got her torn down, so if anybody could tell me what size to get thatd be much appreciated... thanx

FirstYrLS1Z

iTrader: (4)

From post #1, step 8, M12x1.75.

heavychevy383

thanx ...if that was posted already then i musta missed it skimming thru to quickly... 'priciate the heads up

xny1989

iTrader: (1)

I removed the rack from my 99 Z today Cut the driver's bolt from the front; just have to bend the hard lines a bit to get clearance. Nothing else got touched by the blade. I used a sawzall with a 12" wood and nail blade. Did it in 20 second bursts with some wd40 to lubricate. Replacement bolt found at Ace Hardware, though it was a little long at 80mm. Used it on passenger side, inserted from bottom, using several washers; used original from passenger side for driver's side, also inserted from the bottom. Going to rebuild steering pump, replace pressure side hose and reconnect steering shaft. Then, on to replacing upper and lower control arms with others that I've already rebuilt with Moog stuff.

ramairjohn2000

iTrader: (3)

Doing this now great write up.

ramairjohn2000

iTrader: (3)

Done write up was invaluable replaced with rack doctor and new greasable end links and smooth as butter