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Near 100k LS1 oil pressure fluctuating

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Old 09-29-2016, 01:17 AM
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Originally Posted by King Nothing
I'll test the pressure sensor if the scanner checks out the same pressure as the gauge. This part will really throw you guys for a loop: after I throttle it some and it gets into the 20's, I can shut it off, let it sit for 10 minutes and start it up . . . the oil pressure is back in the 40's until I throttle it while driving.
Everything so far just screams of electrical issues to me (gauge, sender, wiring/resistance issue, something along those lines.) I've not had a ton of engines fail on me so I'm sure there are things I haven't seen, but I can't think of any sort of internal mechanical issue that would cause a set of disappearing and reappearing pressure symptoms quite like what you've described (not to mention the frequency with which people report similar gauge issues yet few ever experience any sort of corresponding internal engine problem.)

Good idea to test the gauge, and sender if need be, but at this point I wouldn't be too worried.
Old 09-29-2016, 08:44 AM
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Originally Posted by King Nothing
This part will really throw you guys for a loop: after I throttle it some and it gets into the 20's, I can shut it off, let it sit for 10 minutes and start it up . . . the oil pressure is back in the 40's until I throttle it while driving.


Breathe easy. This is EXACTLY what the newer silverados do when the sending unit starts going bad. I'd bet it's the sending unit or the gauges.
Old 09-30-2016, 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Craigtom86
Breathe easy. This is EXACTLY what the newer silverados do when the sending unit starts going bad. I'd bet it's the sending unit or the gauges.
I'm hyper ventilating over here lol
Old 10-01-2016, 12:53 AM
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Well I totally forgot to check on the scanner when I had it at the shop this afternoon. We found other issues with the car that we worked on and fixed.

I URGE ANYONE WHO HAS A PERFORMANCE SHOP DO ANY MODIFICATIONS TO YOUR CAR, DOUBLE CHECK THEIR WORK!!!!
So much was fucked up by the shop who did the work on my car (I sold the car in 2012 to a guy in SoCal and bought it back from him this past July) I'm surprised they could assemble an engine, beings that they couldn't correctly splice wires, mount things correctly, route things correctly and can't weld for ****. Pretty much they did decent work on the main big stuff and left the supporting stuff alone or did a **** poor ******* job on it. This rant will never end lol
Old 10-27-2016, 03:11 AM
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****
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#7 spark plug has oil all the way up to where it seats up to the head. So, a recap: ticking on driver side of the engine, fluctuating oil pressure that drops to 20-25psi and oil on all the threads of #7 spark plug. I'll double check the valve cover gasket, but last night I didn't see any oil coming down the head. Next step will be a compression test and determine the outcome

Last edited by King Nothing; 10-27-2016 at 10:26 AM.
Old 10-27-2016, 03:01 PM
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Doesn't look like the insulator, center electrode or ground strap have any oil fouling. I wouldn't jump to any conclusions of massive engine issues based on that. If not a leaking valve cover from the outside, then perhaps a bad valve seal.

Have you scanned misfire counts (random, and also specifically on #7) with a scanner?

I don't really see how this is tied to the odd oil pressure gauge behavior. As a side note, I had my '98 out last weekend and kept a close eye on oil pressure via the stock gauge. Just as noted previously, I saw some of the same odd behavior (shaky needle plus erratic pressure drops of 5-10 psi, only at idle) on and off throughout the drive - but only after everything was fully hot. And then it stopped for a while and went back to "normal". And then it came back again. That's how it's been for years. I can't think of anything inside the engine that could cause this type of behavior in the first place, and certainly not anything that would cause such readings but never get any worse nor result in any other issues.
Old 10-27-2016, 03:13 PM
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I need to remove the headers to sell them so I'll have a very good look at the side. From the hat I could see last night the valve cover gasket don't appear to be leaking.
I haven't had any misfire SES lights so I wasn't even thinking of hooking up a scanner. If it's just the valve seals, I can live with that because it's a lot easier than the worse case scenario.
Old 10-28-2016, 02:20 PM
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I did find the pigtail for the oil pressure sending unit had a lot of play with it connected to the top of the sensor. Right away I noticed a green insulator that goes in a pigtail sitting at the base of the sensor. T ake a guess what that insulator was for . . . the oil pressure sensor pigtail! Installed it like it should be and the connector has nominal play that should be acceptable now. I won't know for sure right now as the whole intake is off, plus the headers are off as I'm going to test fit LS2 exhaust manifolds.
So this is the passenger side ports
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some oil but not too much compared to what's next
This is the driver side
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And this is number 7 intake runner
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The PCV elbow above the passenger side valve cover is cracked and seeping, but that should having nothing to to with why so much is in number 7 as it is on the opposite side.



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