LS1 / LS6 PCV system (connected up wrong?)
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
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Joined: Sep 2016
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From: Leicester, United Kingdom
Ive been running the PCV with catch can using the valley port and PCV valve connected as shown in MGHTYMOUSE's post for the last few months.
Anybody find that this method the catch can fills up much quicker than it does with the factory LS1 PCV hose and connection method? surely that aint right?
Surely that means that more oil is being sucked up by the PCV with the valley port than with the valve cover connections...
Anybody find that this method the catch can fills up much quicker than it does with the factory LS1 PCV hose and connection method? surely that aint right?
Surely that means that more oil is being sucked up by the PCV with the valley port than with the valve cover connections...
i agree that the external pcv valleyplate was not a measurable success.
that is probably related to why they only did that for 1-2 years before switching to an internal pcv on the valley.
in general i do not have a preference in which is connected as long as you have a good can in the mix.
that is probably related to why they only did that for 1-2 years before switching to an internal pcv on the valley.
in general i do not have a preference in which is connected as long as you have a good can in the mix.
Hey guys similar question but slightly different. Just finished my lq4 stroker build about 6 weeks ago. Plan was to use a catch can but ran out of time. I ended up running both valve cover vents together via a tee then into the inlet on the intake at the TB. I shaved the truck intake so never relocated the inlet behind the tb as I planned on a catch can. Truck runs good. Should I be worried about this? Am I leaving power on the table? From my understanding no. Any help would be appreciated! Thx
if you have no pcv valve / intake manifold vacuum then you have no pcv system.
this is not for ventilation, but for fumes control, emissions, and crankcase filtration
so you have stock-like ventilation (good enough for your stroker, maybe) but you do not have any of that other stuff.
do the research and decide if those are functions you need or can live without.
this is not for ventilation, but for fumes control, emissions, and crankcase filtration
so you have stock-like ventilation (good enough for your stroker, maybe) but you do not have any of that other stuff.
do the research and decide if those are functions you need or can live without.
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
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From: Leicester, United Kingdom
i agree that the external pcv valleyplate was not a measurable success.
that is probably related to why they only did that for 1-2 years before switching to an internal pcv on the valley.
in general i do not have a preference in which is connected as long as you have a good can in the mix.
that is probably related to why they only did that for 1-2 years before switching to an internal pcv on the valley.
in general i do not have a preference in which is connected as long as you have a good can in the mix.
A new PCV valve seems to have stemmed the excess oil going into the can!
Thanks for all your help on this.
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Staging Lane
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 51
Likes: 3
some early ported valley plates do not have pcv built into them and still require the external pcv valve. you should verify this since you did not buy the plate yourself.
see this gm image of the valley port and an external pcv valve on some year cars
Attachment 594993
a test would be to remove your oil cap and hook hose to the valley plate, blow into it
if it is extremely difficult to blow into, it has the built in restriction, if it is similar to blowing through the tube itself then you should keep your original valve in-line
see this gm image of the valley port and an external pcv valve on some year cars
Attachment 594993
a test would be to remove your oil cap and hook hose to the valley plate, blow into it
if it is extremely difficult to blow into, it has the built in restriction, if it is similar to blowing through the tube itself then you should keep your original valve in-line
I did the test mentioned here to check whether I have a built in PCV or not. Removed the oil cap, blew through the tube connected to valley cover nipple. What I observed is that it was not extremely difficult to blow into it nor was it like blowing through the tube it self. Felt also air coming out the valve cover opening for the oil cap
I have just come across this thread about LS6 PCV system. I have a 68 camaro with LS6 engine installed by previous owner and not quite sure whether or not the valley cover has got the built in PCV. The previous owner did the following mods as seen in the photos. Cross over hose from valley cover to intake, capped off the driver side valve cover, also removed the hose from throttle body to passenger side valve cover nipple and capped both ports off(red&yellow caps). Also, put a breather on oil cap.
I did the test mentioned here to check whether I have a built in PCV or not. Removed the oil cap, blew through the tube connected to valley cover nipple. What I observed is that it was not extremely difficult to blow into it nor was it like blowing through the tube it self. Felt also air coming out the valve cover opening for the oil cap
I did the test mentioned here to check whether I have a built in PCV or not. Removed the oil cap, blew through the tube connected to valley cover nipple. What I observed is that it was not extremely difficult to blow into it nor was it like blowing through the tube it self. Felt also air coming out the valve cover opening for the oil cap
your driver cover will have the built in control, you could switch to that vs. the valley if there is concern or for comparison
Staging Lane
Joined: Sep 2006
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it is probably fine based on the u-turn hose looking oem, however using the oil cap breather vs. connecting the passenger cover to the top of the throttle body is called 'unmetered' pcv and can throw the tune if not planned for.
your driver cover will have the built in control, you could switch to that vs. the valley if there is concern or for comparison
your driver cover will have the built in control, you could switch to that vs. the valley if there is concern or for comparison
does this mean I have the valley cover with built in pcv? Because one of the members mentioned that if it is extremely difficult to blow air into it, it means there is a built in PCV. In my case it was not like just blowing into the tube itself.
Honestly, do not feel like dismantling everything to check for the part number under the valley cover to confirm if it has got built in pcv or not
My plan is now is to put the stock oil cap and connect the valve cover to throttle body.
thanks for the input man
does this mean I have the valley cover with built in pcv? Because one of the members mentioned that if it is extremely difficult to blow air into it, it means there is a built in PCV. In my case it was not like just blowing into the tube itself.
Honestly, do not feel like dismantling everything to check for the part number under the valley cover to confirm if it has got built in pcv or not
My plan is now is to put the stock oil cap and connect the valve cover to throttle body.
does this mean I have the valley cover with built in pcv? Because one of the members mentioned that if it is extremely difficult to blow air into it, it means there is a built in PCV. In my case it was not like just blowing into the tube itself.
Honestly, do not feel like dismantling everything to check for the part number under the valley cover to confirm if it has got built in pcv or not
My plan is now is to put the stock oil cap and connect the valve cover to throttle body.
Based on what I see and that I assume you do not have trouble with a hanging Idle or IAC code it is most likely integrated pcv yes
Staging Lane
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 51
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the problem I am having is when I come to a stop light or hitting the brakes to come to a stop. The engine stalls below 500rpm and picks up again to the idle rpm. Some times the engine dyes with or without AC. Before the rpm was set at 800 rpm and was not stalling as much as this time when I did the tuning and idle has been set at 750rpm
Not exactly what I would expect but try switching it.
otherwise your idler control motor could be checked.
otherwise your idler control motor could be checked.
Thanks
the problem I am having is when I come to a stop light or hitting the brakes to come to a stop. The engine stalls below 500rpm and picks up again to the idle rpm. Some times the engine dyes with or without AC. Before the rpm was set at 800 rpm and was not stalling as much as this time when I did the tuning and idle has been set at 750rpm
the problem I am having is when I come to a stop light or hitting the brakes to come to a stop. The engine stalls below 500rpm and picks up again to the idle rpm. Some times the engine dyes with or without AC. Before the rpm was set at 800 rpm and was not stalling as much as this time when I did the tuning and idle has been set at 750rpm
Staging Lane
Joined: Sep 2006
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I have a 4” intake tube connected to a stock LS6 throttle body with FAST 92mm intake manifold.
Will replace the IAC then will see
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2015
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I have ordered a new IAC and will arrive in a few days. I am also wondering this stall issue I am having might be because of wrong intake tube, throttle body, and Intake Manifold.
I have a 4” intake tube connected to a stock LS6 throttle body with FAST 92mm intake manifold.
Will replace the IAC then will see
I have a 4” intake tube connected to a stock LS6 throttle body with FAST 92mm intake manifold.
Will replace the IAC then will see