KonkeyDong

Sometimes. About half the time, my 2000 Trans Am and it will take 2 turnover to start, or the first time I crank it, it will take a second to start. When it doesnt, I stop, and try again and it always starts second try.

Now the issue I cant figure out and it really bothers me is after Ive been driving it about an hour or so, usually ONLY a warm start (has never done it cold start I dont think), it will turn over and start, but idles WAY low, like 100 RPMs and works itself up eventually. It did it last year and would take a while to go up, but now it only does it when the engines warm and builds back up to idle pretty quickly.

Im thinking Fuel Issue. What are your thoughts?

MY_2K_Z

iTrader: (1)

Could be low fuel pressure. Could also be the motor is just clapped out and low on compression.

KonkeyDong

Clapped out?

Its only 56k miles and it is an intermittent issue. Only happens when the engine is warm.

KonkeyDong

Any ideas? Would a tune up help?

BFK86

iTrader: (1)

I had literally the same problem..i was searching about it for a while but never found this thread until now. I had a cam installed recently and it made the issue worse, would stall after firing up on a warm start..i tried a new IAC and i THINK it cured that issue..but not 100% sure yet..gotta drive it more and test the theory.

Dutch7

In a bit of a pickle guys if you could check out my thread in the automatic transmission section and offer any words of advice I would greatly appreciate it.

qweedqwag

Dirty MAf sensor maybe.

dlandsvZ28

Agree on perhaps a fuel pressure issue.

The first thing to check and fairly easy to diagnose fuel pressure issues is to connect a mechanical fuel gauge to the rail to check fuel pressure. Next is the fuel filter if you haven't been changing it regularly.

The fuel pressure should be close to 58 psi at idle. When you turn on the key it should bring the pressure up to 58 psi and stay there after starting. Note, this assumes the filter is clear and not contributing to the low pressure issue.

Your car is nearly 20 years. So can't expect the internal fuel pressure regulator to last forever.

If it is the FPR, you can either replace the internal in tank regulator and/or replace it with the C5 Corvette kit. The C5 filter is a combination filter/regulator. In either case you will have to remove the fuel module to remove the internal FPR.

If you opt for the C5 filter/regulator you still have to remove the internal FPR. You can't use both. Make sure to get a WIX C5 filter/reg kit. A Wix is reported to be more consistent in maintaining 58 psi than some other C5 brand filters.

Search this forum or YouTube for ways to remove the fuel sender module by dropping the tank or by cutting an access hole just above the tank to remove/repair the module internals.

I would consider replacing the pump too, if you replace the FPR, especially if you drop the tank instead of cutting an access hole. It's no fun dropping the tank without a lift and the tank is 1/2 full of gas.

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

if you haven't clean your throttle body and IAC.

Jennifur

Do you still have the heat shielding on the fuel lines that attach with that shark type of attachment to the hard fuel lines on the top of the engine? You could be boiling the fuel in the lines and creating air inside the lines, Also someone suggested putting a pressure gauge on the schrader valve on the end of the fuel line to check the fuel pressure you have at the hard fuel lines feeding your injectors. Also if your injectors are clogged, you might want to get some 3M fuel injector cleaner and disconnect the fuel pump and run the car on the can of 3M injector cleaner from the schrader valve until the can is empty and it does a great job cleaning them out. But the key to your complaint is it only happens when its hot. Have you tried putting your foot on the gas pedal about 1/2 way when trying to start the car when its hot? That usually will get the car to start faster and if in fact that does work, and the car starts faster when its hot when the gas pedal has the throttle body blade 1/2 open, then someone else suggested cleaning your throttle body and IAC. If that IAC is hung when it gets hot cause its not lubed properly it will prevent the car from idling correctly and starting will be difficult. I had to use some anti seize on mine after I cleaned it out and got all the black sooty gunk out of it and now its fine. Also might want to replace your PVC valve for cheap insurance for if its gunked up and wont allow the crank case to even its pressures out it can cause some goofy running RPM issues as well. I am going to assume you checked your plugs and wires and coils and are all in good working order? But those things are where I would start.
Also always when trouble shooting items, ALWAYS start with the easiest and obvious things first. NEVER try to reinvent the wheel when 99% of the time its something small, stupid and simple to fix to get the car back in good running and working order.
Good luck with your repairs and I hope some of this information is helpful to you.

Thanks

Jenni