here's most of what you need to ballpark whether or not what you want to do will work and under what outside temperature conditions. based on basic heat transfer h = q / ▲t. q is amount of heat transferred in watt/m^2. h = heat transfer coeff. The big thing to keep in mind is it's not just heat transfer, it's "convective heat transfer" and a limit quickly happens when using air where greater ▲t no longer happens with greater airflow.
Surface area is NOT the LxW dimension of the condenser, you would need to calculate the surface area of the sum of all the pipes that make up the condenser that would expose the heated refrigerant inside to the airflow. For the old style serpentine condenser it is easy, the parallel-flow style not so much but the parallel-flow style will have a much larger value for area which is why they work better.
surface temp = temperature of condenser pipes that are exposed to airflow. ac compressor discharge temps never should be more than 225°F, and the temp of that refrigerant will be reduced by time it gets to condenser. Touch/measure the inlet pipe just before condenser and use whatever that temperature would be, figure 45°-70°C.
air temp = 30°C or 86°F outside air temp
convective heat transfer coeff in watts/m^2 K taken from that "air-heat transfer coef" chart in link, where x axis is velocity in m/s. This is not your cfm (cubic feet minute) value since this value needs to relate to the speed of air across the heat exchanger... or rather how fast the heat exchanger moves thru air of a given temperature. Again this is tricky because the condenser is not in a free air stream = 60mph when you drive 60mph, it is stacked in front of the radiator then you have the engine bay behind it. for your new 2000 cfm capable fan, do not use "2000 ft/min" that is based on volume of air. you have to calculate it down to a linear velocity based on the size of the fan shroud and condenser it's mounted to.
but if you drive 30 mph = 14 m/s, and 60 mph = 27 m/s which is already off their x-axis on the chart, but as you can see the curve flat lines around 35 w/m2 k. When the AC is on I know the pcm turns the oem radiator fans on at low speed no matter what whenever vehicle is below 30 mph.
You can try backing out some values by knowing others,
compare the effect of a small 5000 btu/hr ac home window unit and how that feels so expect a car AC as being able to do 1/2 ton AC cooling = 6000 btu/hr = 1760 watts. So the car condenser & fan setup must be able to extract that much heat in watts out of the system, figure at least 1000 watts on a not super hot but sunny day. But more if you have glass t-tops.
in the end what really matters now is how oversized or conservative the oem was in designing the ac system and sizing the condenser, and because of material cost and smaller is always cheaper/easier for other various reasons that i suspect the oem condenser size is already as small as it could be.
what this means is if you go smaller then you must rely on a greater difference in delta-t (outside air temperature colder to hotter condenser temperature). For a given outside air temp don't expect more airflow thru condenser to help if at all, based on that air-heat chart making out around 35 watts/m^2 K.