the factory manual has no info on pump repair....google has failed me....anyone know how to DIY ????

 

What are you trying to do, rebuild? Replace? What vehicle and year?

 

2000 bird....LS1

I know I can get rebuilds....send off to turn one....etc etc

I have 2 spare pumps layin around and wanted to dive into a rebuild myself

 

If you go to AC Delco and search for parts, they have a seal kit you can purchase - 36-350850

 

If you search for information on a "Saginaw TC" pump, you may be able to find some diagrams or youtube videos. (They aren't as plentiful as the old style pump, though.)

 

got me a seal kit on clearance ...3$.....so the only wear items on this pump are......seals ???

3 hrs on google.....no vids.....not even a exploded diagram so I can see what the hell is on the inside

not like GM just started making these pumps yesterday....they came out in the 80s

who is hoarding all this top secret rebuild info ???? !!!!

 

Here,from layout parts catalog

 

so thats whats inside.....looks like a lot of parts !

there is a place local to me...does steering work......PSC motorsports.....lot of 4x4 stuff

might go there tomorrow and pick their brains

 

got the scoop from PSC ....all the trade secrets

internal parts are available from the dealer

firstyrls1z....great diagram.....but cant make out half the part numbers

expect a rebuild thread with pics soooon !

 

take 2....seems the parts from GM are NLA

PSC has parts.....but $$$$$$$$$$$$

found one of those GM parts places online and they say they have the parts

the p/n is 26046606 for a ring kit which includes the vanes ...rotor ....and rotor outer housing

seal kits you can find anywhere

I thought it was the seals on the pump itself that were bad and leaked all over and killed my $$$ high output alt.....turns out it was the seal on the reservoir that leaked....dammm 5 cent seal

 

I've seen a lot of people complain about leaking pumps "ruining" alternators but still haven't seen a plausible theory as to how this can happen. Hi quality and stock alternators are sealed against contaminants, road dirt, dust, etc. and should not be affected.

 

The Brushes are not sealed, A layer of burnt oil between the Armature & Brushes will cause problems.

 

This sounds good in untested theory, but burnt or unburnt, the resistance of a thin layer of oil is minuscule with respect to the energy being transferred.

 

I personally think the stock Alternators are kind of weak for our cars so combined with the oil, I could see how they could easily be pushed over. They also become a weak link pretty quick if you start adding electronics. I also ate Duracrap Gold alternators (literally went through about 5 of them) like candy... until I finally got absolutely fed up and upgraded to a High Amp Powermaster Alt (I forgot how many amps) and upgraded to 0 Gauge battery cables.. havent had a single power issue since...

I had leaking lines that smothered my stock alternator, it lasted about a year like that before it finally gave up. Then I replaced it and it died a pretty quick death too... then I replaced my power steering lines with braided lines, next alternator lasted alittle longer but...died...and the next died after that...and the next died after that..until I finally got my power master.

 

This doesn't count. I think these aren't actually "alternators". My bet is that they just look like alternators and are really just empty shells with a bunch of AA batteries or a gerbil wheel in them - something to make them look like they produce power for a short time.


This is to my point. A lot of people talk about leaks on stock alternators but by the time this leak happens, the alternators are already 10+ years old. So... was it the contamination or the age that did them in?

 

It's not a theory, It's a fact. Have you ever taken apart an alternator that was exposed to high levels of Oil/ATF/PS fluid? Grind the brushes a bit, Clean all the oil out of it & emroy cloth the armature.....It will go back to work.

 

Just because something is touched by a fluid doesn't mean that it will become dirty and just because something becomes dirty doesn't mean it can't work.

To make this fact, you would need to share some information on how the P/S fluid, itself prevents the flow of electricity.


I don't doubt that this situation is happens, but I don't think we can blame "the fluid" without supporting engineering.

Maybe dirty/contaminated P/S fluid is the culprit in this situation? All of the metal and other nasties that dirty P/S fluid would carry into the area would definitely create a thick, resistive varnish and upset electrical operation. I guess "contaminated fluid" can still be "fluid", but it doesn't damn all "fluid."

^ If the above is true, an owner could flush their P/S fluid (in the F-body LS engine configuration) and gain some additional insurance against dirty fluid upsetting their alternator. (It would also make their P/S tank less prone to spilling over, as we have seen in other threads.)

 

I have to agree and disagree with some of what I have read. I've had similar issues on my mitsubishi, a very slight oil leak onto my alternator and eventually it went out. I replaced it with one from the local parts store and it lasted no time at all, did this 3 times before I took it to a local re-builder and had him fix it. He showed me the differences between parts made in 2000 and parts made now, wow what a difference there was the newer stuff is crap. The rebuilt one lasted me a couple of months with no issues until I traded the truck for a New one. I had issues with the starter on my Corvette and took it to the same guy to fix and he did but the problem is the stuff that is coming in our New cars is crap too. I can suggest that if you still the original OEM part in your possession do not trade it in to a parts store have someone rebuild it because you will not see that quality from an auto parts store with all of our stuff coming from China now. Oh yea I did also have to have my alternator on my 98 Z28 rebuilt by this same guy. I bought a cheapo from ebay while mine was in the shop and then switched them when I got it back and yes that f'n power steering pump is still leaking but I am having no alternator issues.........yet.

 

Did you do the rebuild? Was it difficult, any special tools needed, any pictures or advice for me doing mine? Thank You for that part number.

 

I have disassembled my pump....not to hard

waiting on info on the parts I ordered

very simple pump ....not alot of user replaceable parts besides seals and the ring kit

if it were not for my DIY desire I would have gotten another turn one ( yes I have a turn one pump already ) or bought a new pump as there are peeps out there making them new for very reasonable price ( tuff stuff.... )