ls1 oil leak
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Joined: Jul 2012
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leak So I put everything back together, Filled up the oil, and it leaks without the car running. Out the back near the oil filter. Has to be the pan gasket. I have heard some people jacking up the engine, putting 2x4's under the mounts and fishing the gasket around the crank. Any of you done this? I would think I need to be able to see the back of the block/pan/gasket to insure a decent seal. Really do not want to drop the cradle. The car is up on ramps now, exhaust dropped.
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Joined: Nov 2011
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From: Woodstock, GA
Yes ... the cowl prevents us from being able to jack it up any higher than about 5". It's not that bad.... lowering the K-Member. If I recall correctly, it gave me a good 10 inches of clearance to easily drop the oil pan and do motor mounts while I was at it.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Nov 2011
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From: Woodstock, GA
So I put everything back together, Filled up the oil, and it leaks without the car running. Out the back near the oil filter. Has to be the pan gasket. I have heard some people jacking up the engine, putting 2x4's under the mounts and fishing the gasket around the crank. Any of you done this? I would think I need to be able to see the back of the block/pan/gasket to insure a decent seal. Really do not want to drop the cradle. The car is up on ramps now, exhaust dropped.
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Joined: Jul 2012
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have not replaced gasket yet. dont want to drop cradle and lift engine, hokie and would not get under a car in that situation. A guy on this site said he did it by lifting engine and fishing gasket through.
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From: Woodstock, GA
It could be done; I think you can get a good 5" of clearance by lifting the engine only. It's the oil pump screen that you'll have to get around. One issue that you could run into is gasket fragments dropping into the pan when removing the old gasket. Also be very careful; don't trust the engine hoist only. Use jack stands, block of wood ...etc.....
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Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 515
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From: Orlando, Florida
So I put everything back together, Filled up the oil, and it leaks without the car running. Out the back near the oil filter. Has to be the pan gasket. I have heard some people jacking up the engine, putting 2x4's under the mounts and fishing the gasket around the crank. Any of you done this? I would think I need to be able to see the back of the block/pan/gasket to insure a decent seal. Really do not want to drop the cradle. The car is up on ramps now, exhaust dropped.
The gasket is riveted to the pan, making it pretty difficult to remove with the pan in place. A common leak point is where the oil pan gasket meets the rear or front covers. The factory service manual instructs you to apply a small bead of RTV to the corners of the gasket where the rear and front covers meet the oil pan gasket to prevent leaks. Make sure you do this well and hopefully that should resolve your leak. Obviously, use a new gasket. We sell an upgraded single-piece oil pan gasket that is less expensive than OEM.
In short, the oil pan does need to come out to do it correctly.
You should be able to get it out by:
- Unbolting the motor mounts
- Raise the engine a couple of inches with a hoist
- Unbolt the front k-member and lower it around 4-5 inches. You don't need to unbolt the suspension or anything.
- Slide the oil pan out from the rear
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think you have to be a member of frrax to view anything on their site.....that SUCKS too
and nice to know ( NOW after i already put a GM one in ) that improved racing has a one piece oil pan gasket......highly recommended !!!!
and nice to know ( NOW after i already put a GM one in ) that improved racing has a one piece oil pan gasket......highly recommended !!!!
Last edited by sjsingle1; Jul 17, 2018 at 08:24 PM.
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Joined: Oct 2009
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From: Orlando, Florida
Here's the oil pan gasket: http://www.improvedracing.com/gasket...nes-p-660.html
Sorry about that, you have to be a FRRAX member. Here's a quote of what was said:
Sorry about that, you have to be a FRRAX member. Here's a quote of what was said:
Along with all the other projects, I made some time to install the Improved Racing oil pan baffle. As a quick background, I have been over filling the pan with about a quart and a half oil to keep it from sucking on air.
I recived the baffle a few weeks ago. First impressions: nice brushed aluminium, clean, precise welds. I had an old LS1 pan sitting around. Test fit: perfect. Lines up nicely, bolt holes all line up on center.
I opted to install it with out pulling the motor. Went fairly quick and easy. I got the car on jackstands. Attached a cherry picker to the front of the engine. moved the aternator out of the way. Removed the long motor mount bolts. Lifted the engine about 2 inches. Disconnected the intermediate steering shaft. I have an alternate brake line routing, so I did not have to loosen the ABS module. Disconnected the oil level sensor. Slowly removed the 6 bolts holding the k-member to the body. The K-member dropped about 4-5 inches down. Keep in mind I still have the swaybar, ect attached.
Next I pulled the oil pan bolts and took the pan out. I pulled the OEM baffle from the pan, dropped the Improved Racing Baffle in, and instaled on the car. The rest is the reverse of the dissasembely.
Total time invested just over 3 hours. I didn't even remove the wheels. Tools needed are the ussual suspects: #10,#13,#15,#18 socket wrench, jack, jack stand, cherry picker/hoist.
So that was my Thursday night.
Friday I headed to the track. Willow Springs. For those that are not familiar with Willow, there is a 450' radius 200 degree turn. Long sweeper that just takes forever to get thru, and is a good test for any baffle.
I filled the pan to the top of the full line. About 1.5 quarts below where I ussually fill it. Sat my brother-in-law next to me with the sole responsibility of monitoring the oil pressure. Took the car out to multipe 20 min sessions. The baffle passed the test. The oil pressure held steady the whole weekend. Not even flinching in the turns.
I recived the baffle a few weeks ago. First impressions: nice brushed aluminium, clean, precise welds. I had an old LS1 pan sitting around. Test fit: perfect. Lines up nicely, bolt holes all line up on center.
I opted to install it with out pulling the motor. Went fairly quick and easy. I got the car on jackstands. Attached a cherry picker to the front of the engine. moved the aternator out of the way. Removed the long motor mount bolts. Lifted the engine about 2 inches. Disconnected the intermediate steering shaft. I have an alternate brake line routing, so I did not have to loosen the ABS module. Disconnected the oil level sensor. Slowly removed the 6 bolts holding the k-member to the body. The K-member dropped about 4-5 inches down. Keep in mind I still have the swaybar, ect attached.
Next I pulled the oil pan bolts and took the pan out. I pulled the OEM baffle from the pan, dropped the Improved Racing Baffle in, and instaled on the car. The rest is the reverse of the dissasembely.
Total time invested just over 3 hours. I didn't even remove the wheels. Tools needed are the ussual suspects: #10,#13,#15,#18 socket wrench, jack, jack stand, cherry picker/hoist.
So that was my Thursday night.
Friday I headed to the track. Willow Springs. For those that are not familiar with Willow, there is a 450' radius 200 degree turn. Long sweeper that just takes forever to get thru, and is a good test for any baffle.
I filled the pan to the top of the full line. About 1.5 quarts below where I ussually fill it. Sat my brother-in-law next to me with the sole responsibility of monitoring the oil pressure. Took the car out to multipe 20 min sessions. The baffle passed the test. The oil pressure held steady the whole weekend. Not even flinching in the turns.
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Joined: Oct 2009
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From: Orlando, Florida
I would unbolt the brackets securing the steering rack to the subframe, and just leave everything connected. Then just lower the subframe.
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Now I know why not very many people have done this job: Its a bear. Was going good until time for the motor mounts. The manual says remove the 4 bolts on each side. Good luck getting at those. And the upper bolts.....they wont come out unless you remove the a/c and alternator. uggg.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,367
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From: Woodstock, GA
Now I know why not very many people have done this job: Its a bear. Was going good until time for the motor mounts. The manual says remove the 4 bolts on each side. Good luck getting at those. And the upper bolts.....they wont come out unless you remove the a/c and alternator. uggg.
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 369
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oil pan 
Used the 10 ton jacks (only way to go, 5" flat saddle, dont use curved top Chinese junk) . Interesting that the front frame rails are near the CG. When put on jacks, rear end came up and car is level but still on rear ramps. Now its safe to remove the oil pan.
