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Old Jun 21, 2018 | 01:36 PM
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Default Starting and not running

Hello,
Been a long time follower and been a while since been on here. I have been having some issues for the past 3 weeks with my WS6. The issue I have been having is it will start fine once a day, then threw out the day I have to right foot gas pedal (to stay running) and left foot brake (fun to do with a manual). I did a BCM solder fix back in April. I did the VATS bypass and it didn't fix anything. I programmed the ECM with HPTuners to delete the VATS. I don't know if there was more than one spot to click on to disable it. I replaced the ignition lock cylinder also with the correct resistance key. Tonight I cleaned all the grounds except the ones on the back of the head thinking it might be a grounding issue. I had the engine and battery out of the car for about a year rebuilding the engine. Could I have a bad BCM or could it be something else? My WS6 is a 2001. Edit: Also I changed out the door lock actuator while back and lately I have been getting the door chime with key out of ignition and door wont lock with switch when door is open.
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Old Jun 21, 2018 | 02:36 PM
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The BCM has nothing to do with the engine running. VATS blocks the engine from starting by disabling the starter relay and turning off the fuel but it's an on/off thing - if it was causing your problem then no amount of pushing the throttle would make it run. If you did a VATS bypass and were still able to start the car (i.e. the bypass worked) then programming the PCM is redundant. VATS can't be programmed out because it's in the BCM rather than the PCM and the BCM is not programmable.

But the symptoms don't sound like an electrical problem at all... I would look at fuel delivery first.
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Old Jun 22, 2018 | 05:46 AM
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You could also have a problem with an emissions sensor, causing the engine control module to cut fuel. I suggest also scanning the engine for service codes.
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Old Jun 22, 2018 | 06:16 PM
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I will have to try replacing my o2 sensors next week when I get paid. I'll give an update near end of next week if that was the problem. Thanks for the help so far.
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Old Jun 23, 2018 | 06:30 AM
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As wssix99 suggested, it would be better to diagnose the problem rather than just throw parts at it. If you can keep in running long enough to get there, most major auto parts stores will scan for codes for free.
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Old Jun 23, 2018 | 12:56 PM
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Originally Posted by abrahamkay28
I will have to try replacing my o2 sensors next week when I get paid. I'll give an update near end of next week if that was the problem. Thanks for the help so far.
Bro....don't go spending money on anything yet. Call around to different dealerships and also little private shops, somebody must offer free scans. And I don't mean the free "CODE" scan that parts stores offer. They just want to sell you whatever part is associated with the code that pops up. If it doesn't fix it you're then stuck with a part you did not need.

Get a real scan, with an OBDII scantool, while the engine is up to operating temp with the engine still running. A competent mechanic will be able to find your issue. Your symptom has many more than just one root cause.

Most dealers around me all offer free scans. And there's probably 5 speed shops that are free also.

Very well could be your 02 sensor(s).......but if one or both of your 02 sensors are failing you will have more problems than that. Hesitation, smell of raw gas when you stop, it will have low power output issues down low but run fine right after you hit the pedal down, gas mileage will be cut in half also, etc....

Get a scan.......then spend the money once to fix it.

.
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Old Jun 23, 2018 | 05:22 PM
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I did a scan with HP Tuners. Only code I have is for the ac clutch, but that is due to I pulled the relay 2 days ago. I don't have ac in the car. The symptoms/smells that LS6427 stated is exactly what I smell/feel. Today I did go into the DTC on HP Tuners and changed some stuff for the o2 sensors to show a check engine light for slow reacting and what not for both sides. I did do a scan while driving and the o2 sensors seemed to be fluctuating a little sluggishly.
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Old Jun 23, 2018 | 05:38 PM
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Originally Posted by abrahamkay28
I did a scan with HP Tuners. Only code I have is for the ac clutch, but that is due to I pulled the relay 2 days ago. I don't have ac in the car. The symptoms/smells that LS6427 stated is exactly what I smell/feel. Today I did go into the DTC on HP Tuners and changed some stuff for the o2 sensors to show a check engine light for slow reacting and what not for both sides. I did do a scan while driving and the o2 sensors seemed to be fluctuating a little sluggishly.
LOL....well bam....its 02 sensors. You didn't mention all those symptoms in your original post.

Slow reacting is the most common failure. AND....our cars many times will not show a code until the 02 sensor(s) are 100% failed. Yes, our cars still have idiot lights from the 1970's.....

Amazon usually has Denso 02 sensors, which are the ones you want.....for as low as $35.00 each. Just make sure you get the right part number with the correct length wires.

Any of them will work, same exact sensor. Part numbers are different only for the wire length.

Denso: These are the new GM 02 sensor after they stopped making AC Delco brand. If you go to the dealership you will get the Denso sensor in an AC Delco box.
2344-019
15"

2344-087
12"

2344-025
16"

2344-617
44"

.
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Old Jun 23, 2018 | 05:46 PM
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Yeah that's my bad. I've been working 6 days a week for past month brain gets a little fried here in Ft. Bliss.
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Old Jun 23, 2018 | 06:15 PM
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Originally Posted by abrahamkay28
Yeah that's my bad. I've been working 6 days a week for past month brain gets a little fried here in Ft. Bliss.
LOL.....

Yea, slow reacting 02 sensors cause all your symptoms. Get two new ones even if one is still good. Also, this is a good time to do a top end cleaning, just do it with the old 02 sensors still in there. Then after its all done....put the new ones in. Or, if your car is running tip top....don't do the top end clean. Sometimes it causes other issues....

New 02 sensors and be happy.....

.
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Old Jun 23, 2018 | 06:21 PM
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I rebuilt the engine before coming down to Texas. Shouldn't be to bad only has bout 3k on it. I know the o2 sensor problem won't fix the door chime with key out of ignition and door open. I believe I just got a bad door lock actuator or I have a wire that is breaking in the driver side door.
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Old Jun 23, 2018 | 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by abrahamkay28
I rebuilt the engine before coming down to Texas. Shouldn't be to bad only has bout 3k on it. I know the o2 sensor problem won't fix the door chime with key out of ignition and door open. I believe I just got a bad door lock actuator or I have a wire that is breaking in the driver side door.
Yup...02 sensors do an awful lot of things.....but not door chimes....LOL

.
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Old Jun 24, 2018 | 05:22 AM
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If you think the BCM and VATS has anything to do with how an engine idles, I’m scared to find out what you’re doing with Hp Tuners...
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Old Jun 24, 2018 | 06:07 AM
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Im in for a vacuum leak.
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