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Car doesn’t click right away

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Old Feb 1, 2019 | 07:54 AM
  #21  
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You think it’s the lock cylinder? I got a new one done at a Chevy stealership less than 1 year ago ! But it would make sense as to why the security light will sometimes come on
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Old Feb 1, 2019 | 10:09 AM
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That's his psychic ability to determine the source of a problem without any diagnostics. It's easy to test whether the ignition cylinder is the problem. Use a multimeter to measure the resistance of the pellet in your ignition key. Then unplug the connector at the base of the steering column (2-pin connector with white wires and orange sheathing). Measure the resistance between the two wires going into the steering column with the key still in the ignition. If the reading is the same then there is no problem with the wires or contacts in the column or ignition cylinder.

You can take that a step further and measure the resistance across the wires at the BCM to determine if there is a problem with the wiring between the column and the BCM.
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Old Feb 1, 2019 | 11:23 AM
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Originally Posted by WhiteBird00
That's his psychic ability to determine the source of a problem without any diagnostics.
Right.

The one thing we do know is voltage is not getting to the gauges. If electrical potential is not seen by the gauges, it sure-as-hell isn't being seen by the starter.

Could there be more than one problem going on? Yes - but get the low hanging fruit first.

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Old Feb 5, 2019 | 03:00 PM
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Do I test it with the key in the ignition on or off? With it Off it registers the same 2.35 reading on the meter and the key itself is a 2.36 reading bu itself
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Old Feb 5, 2019 | 03:57 PM
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Originally Posted by z28pat
Do I test it with the key in the ignition on or off? With it Off it registers the same 2.35 reading on the meter and the key itself is a 2.36 reading bu itself
Either way, you are in range for the 2370 ohm pellet: http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#pass_key

^ Resistors have a certain margin of error in their precision and will show different values as power is flowing across them. (In addition to the power from the testing tool.)
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Old Feb 5, 2019 | 04:22 PM
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Thanks , I thought that was close enough to be ok. now I gotta check the wires to the starter , pain in the rear cause the car is lowered so the jack doesn’t fit
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Old Feb 5, 2019 | 06:40 PM
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Originally Posted by z28pat
now I gotta check the wires to the starter , pain in the rear cause the car is lowered so the jack doesn’t fit
I'd start at the battery and ground connections. That's usually where the action is. Also check the crimps that attach the battery bolts to the wires. Sometimes those things will come loose.
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Old Feb 6, 2019 | 07:01 AM
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Have you checked the starter relay? The relay could be faulty or, if you still suspect that VATS might be involved, not getting a ground enabled by the BCM. It's easy to substitute one of the fan relays in place of the starter relay to see if that works. You can also test that the BCM is providing the proper ground using a multimeter or even a basic test light. Pull the relay and test the yellow/black wire in the relay socket for ground when the ignition is turned to the start position.
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Old Feb 13, 2019 | 01:23 AM
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I have a similar problem. Well I'm not sure if its even a problem... Sometimes ill turn the key and it will fire up instantly. Other times I turn the key and nothing no click or anything for just a second, no more. Then it fires right up. Never not started. Never a security light. Just a slight pause sometimes. Voltage is always good on the cluster. Guess I better start checking voltage and wires too...
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