Clacking / Ticking noise?
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 369
Likes: 14
From: Canton, GA
Clacking / Ticking noise? Anyone have any idea what this noise is? Suddenly started one day was running great then this started. I was luckily close enough to limp it home.
- The engine feels out of balance while driving.
- There is a hesitation like a missing a cylinder or cylinders are not firing at all.
- The engine feels out of balance while driving.
- There is a hesitation like a missing a cylinder or cylinders are not firing at all.
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 369
Likes: 14
From: Canton, GA
So I pulled the valve covers and everything looked good. I also turned the motor over a few times while watching the rocker arms. All of them moved like normal and nothing appeared to be stuck. No lose push rods and I couldn't compress any of the lifters by hand.
What can I look at next? Do I need to pull the motor at this point?
What can I look at next? Do I need to pull the motor at this point?
It's not as simple as passing a visual inspection but since you have the covers off you could determine if you do have a collapsed lifter. In order to do this you will need a pushrod length checking tool and do some research on the EOIC method. If your engine is stock then your current pushrod length is 7.4 inches. It could be any or a number of things that can cause valve train noises such as worn out valve guides, valve springs, valves, lifters, pushrods, rocker arms. In stock form all rocker arms should be torqued to 22 ft lbs and this is done with the particular valve your are working on is on the base of the cam.
EOIC method: When the exhaust valve begins to open the intake valve for that cylinder is on the base circle of the cam and can be adjusted. When the intake valve for the cylinder your working on begins to close then the exhaust valve is closed and on the base circle of the cam and it can be adjusted.
EOIC method: When the exhaust valve begins to open the intake valve for that cylinder is on the base circle of the cam and can be adjusted. When the intake valve for the cylinder your working on begins to close then the exhaust valve is closed and on the base circle of the cam and it can be adjusted.
I would have tried to determine what side of the engine the noise is coming from first as it could be that one of the lifters is clogged and there's ways to remedy that without pulling it apart.
If it is deemed to be a lifter then its time to pull the heads and go through them to make sure that your guides and valves are within spec's. If everything checks out then install a new set of springs and seals and put it back together with new lifters and gaskets.
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You'll need to inspect the lobe on that cam to see if its hurt. If its bad go back in with new lifters and replace the springs and valve stem seals in the heads or have them gone through by a reputable shop.
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What valve springs? What engine? What lifters (Stock?)
A strong spring on a stock lifter will do that, also dirt/debris/sand just one grain can do that also. Usually happens during a cam swap.
A strong spring on a stock lifter will do that, also dirt/debris/sand just one grain can do that also. Usually happens during a cam swap.