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Voltage is scary

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Old Jun 3, 2021 | 10:49 AM
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Default Voltage is scary

I replaced my alternator and my battery last summer due to voltage fluctuation and a couple days ago I was driving the car and the voltage was fluctuating. When I hit the brakes or turned on the turn signals the airbag light came on and the rest of the lights followed. My ABS kicked in and i pulled over shut the car off, let it cool then drove it home with no problems. What in the hell could it be? When the car was bought brand new it had to be rushed back to the dealer for an alternator issue. I just replace the sound system with a KEE audio package and im sure its not causing this problem. I would love to stall my voltage issue even if I have to spend a little bit of money. I would prefer not to modify anything with a new alternator though.
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Old Jun 3, 2021 | 06:32 PM
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Make sure the battery is shorting out by moving and making contact with the AC canister.
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Old Jun 4, 2021 | 07:19 AM
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What part did you use for the "new" alternator? Was it a reman?

Many of us have had problems with aftermarket alternators. Not just remans - even "new" units from parts stores have turned out bad out of the box or fail after a few months. Premium alternators, like Powermaster, don't seem to give people this headache.
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Old Jun 4, 2021 | 02:21 PM
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Well it was a new duralast and I am currently experimenting with it and I replaced the battery and it seems fine now. The voltage doesn’t jump but it’s steady at 13 with the air conditioning on at idle. I will be installing a 145 amp truck alternator on Monday so I can make sure I have zero issues from here on out, what do you think?
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Old Jun 4, 2021 | 09:49 PM
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An alternator is an alternator. The fact that people have put "truck" alternators in their cars and not had problems doesn't prove anything. It just weighs more, consumes more energy to spin, and wastes a little gas.

A small alternator made in China is just like a big alternator made in China. (Quality is something different than size.)

I also have a Durlast alternator in my car currently. Its been working fine for years, but the first Duralast that went in was a dud. (Autozone exchanged it for free and all it cost me was a few bloody knuckles and a scratched back from the extra install.) I swore that if the second one was bad, I was going to move up to the Powermaster, but we haven't gotten there yet.
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Old Jun 10, 2021 | 10:08 AM
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Well I figured out the problem, the battery connectors were garbage. I replaced the battery along with the connectors and everything was fine so i turned on the AC along with everything else and the voltage dropped below 13 after it got hot so i put in the truck alternator and everything is fine now wont go below 13 unless i redline it and for some reason it drops the volts bigtime for a split second.
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